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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, so I purchased my second motorcycle and my first Triumph in the beginning of August. She is a Tornado Red 2006 Daytona 675, which my friend and I named Emma, after Emma Watson for being a British babe, and/or Emma Stone for being a hot redhead. I suppose both apply. So, before I get into my experience with the bike, let me go a bit off-topic and share a little about my riding history and how I ended up here.

I bought my first bike, Sally, a 2003 CBR600RR with 20K miles, in 2013. I learned how to ride sportingly in the canyons over the summer of 2014, and finally hit the track for the first time in Fall of 2014. After going on a canyon/track hiatus for the winter, I finally went back to the canyon at the end of February and had a pretty bad getoff. Luckily, I was in my suit, so the damage I did to myself was merely bruises. My bike was in pretty good shape too, just some plastic damage and a bent rearset. So, I fixed the bike up, and did a track day in April, which recemented my skills and confidence on a bike. A friend of mine was getting into flipping a few bikes so I figured I might as well see what I could do with my Honda since it was getting up around 30K and I knew I wouldn't be able to sell it for much if the mileage got much higher. So, I listed the bike for $4K, and after waiting out the summer, someone finally bought her.

I was debating between two bikes, the 3rd-gen Yamaha R6, and a Daytona 675. I had always loved the look of the 675, but did have a little experience riding the R6 my buddy that I mentioned before had for a few months before trading it, and my word is that an amazing motorcycle! Despite knowing I really loved that bike a lot, I saw an ad for a 2006 675 for with a bit under 22K miles that was well within my budget. Owner confirmed the valves had been adjusted at 18K. So, after a look and a test ride, I quickly bought the 675 without looking at anything else, the day after I sold my Honda. I could tell it was probably leaking a bit of oil, as the engine casings were sludgy, but my friends and I are mechanically inclined so I figured we could fix it.

So, the day after I bought the bike, the battery was dead. What a surprise. Got a new one a few days later, and that fixed that. CEL came on the next day too for the ex-up, which I still need to disable in TuneECU. When I got the bike, I knew something had been done about the gearing, as the speedo indicated 92 MPH while I was traveling with the speed of traffic. Took a look, and sure enough, 14 tooth 530 pitch front sprocket with a 530 chain (unsure how many links) and a 47 tooth 525 pitch rear sprocket. Got a new gold DID chain with the correct size JT sprockets, all 525. Also ditched the mismatched sport touring tires for some Q3s. I had a lightly used front in the garage from my Honda, so all I needed was a rear. Half of the LEDs in the integrated tail light were dead, so I replaced that too. Changed the oil and started checking on it and noticed a little was disappearing, but not enough that I thought it was a problem. Thinking the bike was now going to run right without needing maintenance, I ordered the eBay knock offs of the Sato rearsets, after reading a few positive reviews on here. I had Vortex on my Honda and converted to GP shift, so the first week of 675 ownership felt a little off, especially with that silky smooth gearbox. After doing a second clean up with the plastics removed, I noticed a very small coolant collection in the severely stretched neck of the lower radiator hose where it meets the inlet on the engine. I also noticed a collection of something along the hose where it touches the stator cover. Wiped it off, oil. Not much, so I decided it would be okay to ride easy. So, rode to school last Wednesday to avoid dealing with the chaotic parking lots during the beginning of the semester and when I park, I smell coolant. I look down, and my expansion tank has a nice big crack along the edges of it. So, I ride it home easy, and take things apart when I do get home. Found a little coolant in my sprocket cover, so I clean and lube the chain again, and it has been sitting since. I got a replacement expansion tank and stator gasket, just waiting on a new lower radiator hose. Should have everything taken care of by Sunday of the coming week.

Now, let's get to the good. The bike handles wonderfully, as far as I can tell. I haven't taken it on more than some twisty highway on ramps, but it is a lot easier to control than my Honda, which is retrospect feels like a massive pig. The triple powerband is beautiful! So nice to be able to keep the bike around 4-5K and be able to pull on a moment's notice without downshifting. The gearbox is so unrealistically smooth. Shifts are effortless and easy. However, I have been having an issue clutchless shifting from 1st to 2nd. Close to half the time I do it above 7K revs, the bike will catch 2nd briefly and then throw me into neutral. I never used the clutch on my Honda, up or down, and never had this problem, except when first switching from standard to GP and just getting caught in neutral. Maybe it's me timing it wrong or something, but I haven't been able to get enough seat time to really see -_-. So, hopefully after next weekend, things will go much smoothly for me and Emma. My Honda was trouble free throughout my entire ownership, so I am not used to being without a bike if I want it (aside from when I dumped it in the canyon :frown:) I'm fine with maintenance, even high maintenance (I own an RX-8 and daily it), but constant trouble is something I am not prepared for. Hopefully, it's just because the previous owner neglected the bike and didn't get it out much, so once I take care of these things, all will be well.

After taking care of my current predicament, I plan on polishing the fork cartridges and then hitting Chuckwalla next month to really try her out :smile2:. I am curious to see if the Daytona 675 is really all it's cracked up to be in a fast environment. If it's not, I may be looking to trade for an R6 very soon :smilielol5:

Pics for more interest:




 
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The 675 should be superior on all levels compared to an R6 (well, except reliability maybe). I'm in HB as well and ride a '08 SE. I'm closing in on 45k now.

A few items to look into:
* Exup: definitely disable in the software and never look back;
* R/R: the early models came with a crappy R/R known to fail. So, definitely have the charging system checked. I run a Yamaha R/R with aftermarket stator;
* Oil dipstick. If it is 90mm, make sure to fill up well above the high mark. Early models came with a dipstick that is too long. The "high" mark is the "low" mark on the revised shorter dipstick.
* Charcoal canister. If you have that black box in front of the rear wheel, make note to remove it at some point. It is only for emissions and will eventually dry out and stall the engine when you start it up in hot weather. This happened to me around 40k and I had a hell of a time trying to figure out what was wrong. The return hose needs to be plugged. The other one can vent into the atmosphere.

Let me know if you have any other questions and enjoy :)
 

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* R/R: the early models came with a crappy R/R known to fail. So, definitely have the charging system checked. I run a Yamaha R/R with aftermarket stator
There is a link below my sig with photos of the crap R/R and the new one supplied under the 2012 recall. Make sure you have the new one fitted. If not get it through a dealer. It's FREE.

Also make sure it's had the extra relay fitted for the fuel pump. Again this is FREE through a dealer.

Enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The 675 should be superior on all levels compared to an R6 (well, except reliability maybe). I'm in HB as well and ride a '08 SE. I'm closing in on 45k now.

A few items to look into:
* Exup: definitely disable in the software and never look back;
* R/R: the early models came with a crappy R/R known to fail. So, definitely have the charging system checked. I run a Yamaha R/R with aftermarket stator;
* Oil dipstick. If it is 90mm, make sure to fill up well above the high mark. Early models came with a dipstick that is too long. The "high" mark is the "low" mark on the revised shorter dipstick.
* Charcoal canister. If you have that black box in front of the rear wheel, make note to remove it at some point. It is only for emissions and will eventually dry out and stall the engine when you start it up in hot weather. This happened to me around 40k and I had a hell of a time trying to figure out what was wrong. The return hose needs to be plugged. The other one can vent into the atmosphere.

Let me know if you have any other questions and enjoy :)
Thanks for the tips! I was wondering what that black box did.. I guess I'll remove that too this weekend! I read about the dipstick and have it "overfilled" I try to keep it about 10mm above the top mark, per another user's recommends (name escapes me). Once I get the bike back to a rideable state we should go for a ride! I only have one other friend with a Triumph and he never wants to ride. He has a 2012 675R and lives in HB as well.

There is a link below my sig with photos of the crap R/R and the new one supplied under the 2012 recall. Make sure you have the new one fitted. If not get it through a dealer. It's FREE.

Also make sure it's had the extra relay fitted for the fuel pump. Again this is FREE through a dealer.

Enjoy!
Thanks for the info! I'll definitely check it out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Alright, it's update time and it's mostly good!

So I have now had the bike for about 6 1/2 weeks now, and I am really enjoying it. The two weekends before this past weekend were spent wrenching.

I had an oil leak from the stator cover, which was taken care of with a new gasket and some silicone sealant. No more leak!

I also replaced the lower radiator hose, which was very stretched at the neck connecting to the water pump inlet (I think that's what it is). I also replaced the little relief hose that runs off the inlet, which was a little bit of a pain since I didn't want to pull the throttle bodies. I also used this time to flush the cooling system and refill it with Redline Super Cool (premixed 50/50 water and Water Wetter).

I also took the bike in two Fridays ago for the rectifier recall. I was stopped at a gas station in Irvine the night before when someone in a grey Mazda 3 stopped and asked if my bike was a 2007. I told him it was a 2006 and he asked if I had the rectifier replaced. I told him not yet, as I had been putting it off because I did not want to be without the bike for long. He then told me about how his 2007 caught fire because of the rectifier, which made me go and get it replaced the next day. He said he also has a 2008 D675 that had problems with the rectifier. If you're on here, thanks a lot man! I was treated very well by Daniel at Triumph/Ducati Newport Beach, he had me in and out in an hour!

With the help of one of my friends, we disabled the ex-up system using TuneECU. I would have done it myself, but I have a Mac -_-. Nonetheless, the CEL is gone for the first time since I've owned the bike! :D I noticed zero difference in performance as a result. Still haven't removed the servo motor and cables though.

I am still working on the 1st to 2nd clutchless shift I was having trouble with, but it has improved. I think it is me messing it up, because I could do it effortlessly without fail on my Honda. Of course, this is a different bike, and a much sharper one at that. I find that when I focus and remember to firmly preload the shifter and close the throttle pretty completely it works fine. I have still been getting caught a little, but not nearly as often as before. I expect it will continue to get better with more time.

Now, let's talk mods. I mentioned before that I went for the eBay knock offs of the Sato rearsets, which have been working pretty well. The shift arm coming off the transmission flexes a little, but I believe this is normal because Sato actually sells a little stabilizer piece to solve this problem. However, I'm having a hard time justifying the purchase, as they sell it for more than half of what my knock-offs cost. It doesn't seem like the flex is that big of a deal, because it only flexes after a gear has been engaged and it doesn't flex that much. Aside from that, they are super solid. I also picked up a set of used GB Racing no-cut frame sliders from David Grey, who was a pleasure to do business with. They fit on no problem and give me a little peace of mind, although it doesn't look like the puck on the left will do much for the stator cover. A friend of mine made sliders for his R1 out of delrin on his own and suggested we make some longer ones for my bike, so we'll see if that happens. I also picked up a clear Zero Gravity Corsa windscreen from zgoutlet on eBay. I got sick of the dark smoke the bike came with that was cracked on the edge. I have a mirror shield for my helmet, so the dark smoke was impossible to see through whilst tucked. I am also quite tall at 6'3", and love the look of the tall windscreen. Very happy with the purchase.

So, the plan as of now are to get this girl to the track! I am booked for Chuckwalla on October 16th with TrackDáz in B Group, if you're out there feel free to say hi! I am taking the forks off the bike this weekend and getting them serviced (new seals, oil, polish cartridges). There is a ton of hardened gunk on the bottoms of the cartridges, which concerns me, since I will be doing a lot of heavy braking and don't want this hard crap to tear up the seals if the forks fully compress (which I hope they will once I tinker with the settings). Other than that, I will just keep enjoying the bike!
 

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There is a link below my sig with photos of the crap R/R and the new one supplied under the 2012 recall. Make sure you have the new one fitted. If not get it through a dealer. It's FREE.

Also make sure it's had the extra relay fitted for the fuel pump. Again this is FREE through a dealer.

Enjoy!
Thanks! Unfortunately I already had the R/R replaced before I even learned about the recall a long time ago. Fuel pump was replaced with the water pump just recently; where is the relay located?
 

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Glad to hear you're enjoying the bike OP! I absolutely love mine! I bought a Ninja 1000 over the summer as well but the 675 is hands down still my favorite.
 

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Thanks! Unfortunately I already had the R/R replaced before I even learned about the recall a long time ago. Fuel pump was replaced with the water pump just recently; where is the relay located?
You're still entitled to the FREE R/R though.

The extra relay is retrofitted to the bracket bottom left of the engine, with the wire running up behind the expansion bottle. Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Track day was fun. I got my suspension set up before the first session of the day, so I can't really say how much of a difference it made, though I'm sure it was monumental. But it was brought to my attention by the suspension guy that my shock has some air in it, and it would be a better idea to replace it than to rebuild it. Of course, he recommended an Ohlins shock, and I could get a used one from a 675R for a reasonable price on eBay. Still, not very cheap.
I spent the first half of the day feeling the bike out, and it makes for a great track tool. The midrange power is really nice and worked well with the track and the way the bike is geared. Turn in is excellent, and the bike feels noticeably more stable mid-corner than my Honda did. The biggest "night and day" difference I have to say was the brakes. My Honda did not have radially mounted calipers or stainless lines. I was over-slowing myself going into quite a few corners because I was using the same braking points I had found for my Honda. The Triumph can dive a lot deeper. The plan as of now is to get one more track day in on December 13th, again at Chuckwalla.

I got some GoPro footage, but the camera died midway through session three so I didn't get much footage and most of it was at a meh pace since I was still getting familiar with the bike. I was able to get it over pretty well in a few corners though, so maybe I'll make a short little montage. Nontheless, here are some photos.

















 

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Glad to see you're enjoying the bike.

Interested to know how the suspension guy determined that there was air in your shock?

Anyway for track work a different shock would be a huge improvement. Plenty of other choices apart from Ohlins and usually much cheaper. Personally I have a fully adjustable Nitron shock an it's fantastic. It was second hand and half the price of a used Ohlins.

You might want to get the forks looked at as the early bikes were prone to having fork springs way too hard, even harder than the spec sheet said they were. Mine were massively over spec and gave poor feedback on the brakes.
 

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Some cool shots there! Very nice.


Also, going back a few posts, I wouldn't really worry about getting the 1->2 clutchless upshift perfect. It's pretty much always going to be more clunky than the rest. You also have a significantly higher chance of hitting neutral. Even when I go to the drag strip I clutch the 1->2 and then clutchless everything else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Glad to see you're enjoying the bike.

Interested to know how the suspension guy determined that there was air in your shock?

Anyway for track work a different shock would be a huge improvement. Plenty of other choices apart from Ohlins and usually much cheaper. Personally I have a fully adjustable Nitron shock an it's fantastic. It was second hand and half the price of a used Ohlins.

You might want to get the forks looked at as the early bikes were prone to having fork springs way too hard, even harder than the spec sheet said they were. Mine were massively over spec and gave poor feedback on the brakes.
He said it was the way the shock behaved. When compressing it, it would move very quickly initially, but slow down as it compressed more. Rebound was the same, but reverse.

I want to try and improve on everything I can do as a rider before I start dropping money into suspension parts. I will once I feel that I am pushing the bike's stock suspension to its limits. Good to know about Nitron though, I will keep it in mind. Thanks.

Mine probably are, I felt the front locking a bit in some situations. I just had my forks rebuilt two weeks ago, so I'm not eager to have them pulled apart again. Still though, the bike slows down much faster than I am accustomed to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Some cool shots there! Very nice.

Also, going back a few posts, I wouldn't really worry about getting the 1->2 clutchless upshift perfect. It's pretty much always going to be more clunky than the rest. You also have a significantly higher chance of hitting neutral. Even when I go to the drag strip I clutch the 1->2 and then clutchless everything else.
Thanks!

I've been getting better at it, I just have to consciously make an effort to preload the shifter and roll off the throttle more and it seems to work. It was very easy on my Honda, I didn't even need to think about it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, posts about problems are never fun..

So I got the bike back home from the track and rode her twice the following week. She sat for a few days until I needed it to commute (I have to make it 25 miles from work to school in SoCal rush hour traffic in less than an hour once per week, so I always ride the bike). She wouldn't start, so I had to do a bump start. I figured the battery was discharged, and said whatever. I let her sit for exactly one week until I needed to commute with her again, but put the battery on the tender the night before, thinking this would help. She fired up but hesitated a bit, just not as quickly as she should be. So I ride to work, bike sits. Hesitates a little more to start after work, but does on first, very long and slow crank. After starting I notice all of the lights on the cluster are very, very dim, until the engine is over 2K. I ride to school, park, she sits for two hours. I go to start her to leave, no issues. She warms up for 3-4 minutes while I gear up. I ride out of the garage and to the signal with my indicator on, and when I stop, she is idling very sporadically, fluctuating between normal idle (1200RPM) to down below 1K, with the oil pressure light flickering when the revs drop too low. Finally after about 20 seconds of this, she dies. She does start back up with a little extra gas, but cluster is very dim again. I ride home, and once I get there, I let her idle in the driveway and start playing with the turn signals again, and after about 30 seconds of this and nearly stalling, she stalls.

I put a new battery in the bike in the middle of August when I got her, and I had the R/R replaced at the dealer under warranty about a month ago, so I'm thinking it's probably the stator. I have read about the hit-or-miss quality of the Rick's stators, which seem to be the only aftermarket ones you can buy now at a reasonable price. Anybody have suggestions? I will be testing for voltage and what not soon, so I'm not buying yet. I just want to get as much knowledge as I can going in.
 

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Hard to tell for sure but I would guess the stator is on the way out; it still seems to charge a bit while riding but not enough to keep the battery healthy.

I have a Rick's stator. I'd have to check but I probably had it for over 20k miles now without issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Alright, this one is a doozie.

So, yesterday my friend and I took a good look at the bike and tested everything with a multimeter. Got it running on a bump start and checked the battery (off, on, engine running) , reading very healthy. Checked the stator, also healthy. Finally, checked the rectifier, passed. So we're like, "what the hell can it be? Wiring?" I went back to test the battery and noticed the screw holding the positive cable on was loose. Tightened it down, bike fired up first go. Took it out for a long test ride, no issues. Rode it to work today, then to school, then home. No issues. I feel like an utter moron :stupid:

Of course, it's better to feel stupid over something like that than need to replace a stator, so I'll take it :biggrinjester:

Also got the APE manual CCT installed. When my buddy and I removed the crank cover, we found a few shards of metal and some scarring on the inside of the casing. That made me very happy to replace the OE POS.

Also got booked for Chuckwalla on Sunday, December 13th with SoCal Trackdays. It will be my first track day with no sessions, should be fun :) Hopefully it will be dry and reasonably warm. It's supposed to get pretty wet in SoCal this winter..
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Glad you got it sorted! I had that screw come loose as well.
Thanks! It must just be the resonance the triple makes then. If these things didn't have such a bad rep for electrical failure I might have checked that sooner :laugh:
 

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Thanks! It must just be the resonance the triple makes then. If these things didn't have such a bad rep for electrical failure I might have checked that sooner :laugh:
Ha! Then again, once all the electrical is sorted :excited:

I have mine in the shop for some new front brakes and rotors. Checking out the CCT as well while it's there.
 
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