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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
BIG THANKS TO JazMan FOR LETTING ME BORROW HIS PC3 :bowdown:

Not much of a gain in the lower end....but it fixed my idling problem. She runs like a dream now!

Mods:
Jardine Slipon
Disabled EXBV and Intake Flapper
BMC Street Air Filter



She's definitely not an overachiever.....but that doesn't matter as she always brings a smile to my face everytime I start her up now :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
$300....took them about 2 hours to dyno tune

I was tempted to take the bike up to Mach1 Motorsports....but it costs $290 there and I'd spend more on gas getting there than taking the bike to Lees
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yup! mid-range feels so much better now as well as taking off the line. haven't opened her up yet fully (not going to on public roads) but i have no doubt she'll be a screamer.

question: when i brought it in, they said they had to plug off emissions crap and wanted to charge me $100 to remove it. what exactly were they talking about? i told them to just clip it instead and i'd remove it myself later, which they did when tuning the bike.
 

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Emissions systems:
SAI/secondary air injection (worthless once catalyst is removed)
charcoal canister for tank overflow
narrowband Lambda sensor

None of this hurts performance, and I tune regularly with it in place. But the narrowband Lambda sensor can cause adaptions to take place and offset some of the mapping done at idle and cruise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Emissions systems:
SAI/secondary air injection (worthless once catalyst is removed)
charcoal canister for tank overflow
narrowband Lambda sensor

None of this hurts performance, and I tune regularly with it in place. But the narrowband Lambda sensor can cause adaptions to take place and offset some of the mapping done at idle and cruise.
that's what i thought minus the narrowband lamda sensor. i've already removed the charcoal canister. left SAI on as it doesn't hurt having it there and i'm not too bothered by the bubbling when i'm decelerating. i'll have to look more into the narrowband lamda sensor and what it does....good to know that if adaptations take place it can mess stuff up....but that can be temporarily fixed by just resetting the map adaptations right?
 

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I think he'll sell sarcasm detectors, too :whistle:
 

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Seriously guys you pay way too much for a dyno tune.
We charge £45/hour and never really stick to that. We spent 2.5 hours on a bike last night and charged the customer £60. An hour of that time was spent trouble shooting a problem his bike came to us with. He'd left the sniffer tube off the map sensor :itsok:

We used TuneECU last night and tried reseting the TPS in accordance with their instructions. No chance, has anyone had any success with doing it with TuneECU?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Seriously guys you pay way too much for a dyno tune.
We charge £45/hour and never really stick to that. We spent 2.5 hours on a bike last night and charged the customer £60. An hour of that time was spent trouble shooting a problem his bike came to us with. He'd left the sniffer tube off the map sensor :itsok:

We used TuneECU last night and tried reseting the TPS in accordance with their instructions. No chance, has anyone had any success with doing it with TuneECU?
dude you would get so much business if you charged that and were here :thumbup:
especially since you tune using TuneECU too!
 

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Seriously guys you pay way too much for a dyno tune.
We charge £45/hour and never really stick to that. We spent 2.5 hours on a bike last night and charged the customer £60. An hour of that time was spent trouble shooting a problem his bike came to us with. He'd left the sniffer tube off the map sensor :itsok:

We used TuneECU last night and tried reseting the TPS in accordance with their instructions. No chance, has anyone had any success with doing it with TuneECU?
Re-setting TPS is fairly straight forward. If the motor is already warmed up after a dyno run it's even easier/quicker.

With the ignition turned off, select "Reset TPS".

Tune ECU asks for confirmation, select "Yes".

Tune ECU will then re-set TPS.

Now you start the engine without touching the throttle and let it run.

The two small arrows at the bottom left on the Tune ECU map will light up after a little while idling.

Now you have to wait for the small box to the right of the two arrows to turn green.

This usually take around 5 minutes + or so of idling the motor.

DO NOT touch the throttle during the re-set process.

When the small box turns green, turn off the ignition. You will hear the ECU cycle.

That's it, all done.

If you have problems, then make sure that the computer is communicating properly with the bike's ECU first.

If all else fails, let the warm motor idle for around 12 minutes or until you hear the radiator fan come on.

The re-set needs to have a warmed up motor before it will light up the green box correctly with Tune ECU.

S.
 

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Cheers Spooky, good info. Will try it next time rather than using the Triumph tool.

Heres a dyno run we did on Monday night. Stock motor, cat and charcoal canister removed, TOR slip on can. The bottom lines are the AF/R reading.

View attachment 21349
Are they normally that rich?

I haven't had the time (nor need really) to dyno mine. Do they like being that rich? I'd normally aim for 13.2(ish)

Either way, looking about the atmospherics, it was a good result with nearly ideal conditions.
 
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