[pitiyo]

Hello everybody!

First of all, sorry for my bad english, i am french
I just bought a 2006 daytona. This is my race bike.

I'd like to improve braking performance of my bike.
compared to my KTM superduke, the brakes are really poor ...
I have an original braking system, with braided lines (i use the google translator, "Durites aviation" in french ).
What changes are usually made for race?
changing the master brake cylinder? calipers ? platelets ("plaquettes" in french)?

Thank you in advance.

Best regards.

Johann

 

[hob]

If the Regs allow you could update to the 09+ 675 setup (even 675R setup?).

Otherwise try a better compound for the brake pads. :coolgleamA:

 

[Danw182]

"plaquettes" = Rotors in english FYI

 

[Smoke]

Not... Rotors are "disques"

I can answer in french if you really need to, but whatever...

You can try the whole '09 brake setup, but a new master cylinder and race pads (plaquettes) would be a good start, especially since you would change the fluid, too, which is probably a big part of why you don't find the braking satisfactory.

 

[Jstu202]

In order to properly answer this question, we have to ask you a question.. Why are they poor? Is it the feel? Is it the stopping power?

but a new master cylinder and race pads (plaquettes) would be a good start, especially since you would change the fluid, too, which is probably a big part of why you don't find the braking satisfactory.

Agreed. Try with just the pads first.

 

[Daken]

http://www.moto-racing.co.uk/cat--Brembo-Performance-Brakes-Triumph-Daytona-675--All+Brembo+675.html

 

[Ruby Racing]

"plaquettes" = Rotors in english FYI

However if you want to say it in the Queens (correct) English, then plaquettes are discs, as in disc brakes.

 

[pitiyo]

woot so much answers Thank you.

I feel that there is not enough braking power. For exemple, on the "Circuit carole" french track, after maybe 10 laps, the braking lever can touche the throttle ! even when i put it on the maximum position. Well this is maybe not a good exemple, because carole is a really small track, and it's a track really hard for the brakes.

What i really feel, it's that i need to press the brake lever harder than on my KTM to feel the same braking power. And even when it's a the maximum braking level, it don't brake as powerfull as my KTM Superduke.

Thank you very much for the brembo links ! i think i will try to change my master cylinder for a Brembo PR19. And i will also try to change my pads for some competitions one's. and of course, i will change my braking fluid on the same time (i use RBF 600).

Thank you very much for all your answers ! i will tell you about the results as soon as i will made the changes

 

[roddrigo]

There may be something wrong with your brakes. I also have a Superduke (2007) and a 675 (2008) for track use. Mi 675 brakes are all original except for the brake pads (ebc) and I really don’t see any difference between the two bikes braking abilities.

 

[pitiyo]

Yep , i think you're right Roddrigo.

I will try my Superduke MC on my daytona, to see if it change somethings or not.

Otherwise, i saw on many forums that some racers changes their original nissin caliper for R1 or R6 original monobloc calipers. What do you thinck about it ?

 

[Smoke]

I think the same setup as the '09 would probably be more suitable than adapting parts from different bikes.

And I suspect there's something wrong with your braking system, I never experienced any noticeable fading problems, you probably have air bubbles, getting rid of them sould also improve raw braking power and feeling, try this before throwing unnecessary money at the problem

 

[Ruby Racing]

I agree. I think you have air in the lines or something like that. Are you doing the final bleed from the nipple on the master cylinder? Also if you are racing I would put new brake fluid in before each meeting.

 

[Triumph Race Support]

We recommend the Braking Wave rotors and pads or Brembo race pads and the Braking Wave 19mm reservoir along with new lines and fluid gives a very good set-up for not too much money. Or a full Brembo big block conversion for £1200.

 

[Daken]

I agree. I think you have air in the lines or something like that. Are you doing the final bleed from the nipple on the master cylinder? Also if you are racing I would put new brake fluid in before each meeting.

hehehhee...he said nipple

 

[Ruby Racing]

hehehhee...he said nipple

I'm learning to weld at the moment and the word penetration is used a lot. But nobody ever sniggers! Must be just me that finds it funny.

 

[old blue]

There may be something wrong with your brakes. I also have a Superduke (2007) and a 675 (2008) for track use. Mi 675 brakes are all original except for the brake pads (ebc) and I really don't see any difference between the two bikes braking abilities.

+1.

I ride my 2008 on the track all day and get zero brake fade - the lever travels only as far at the end of each session as it did at the start, and that's not far. Nowhere near back to the throttle tube.

I'd recommend a component-by-component check and a day spent doing some simple stuff - bleed the brakes thoroughly, test, then perhaps rebuild your calipers and maybe even your master cylinder, freshen everything up.

A lot of people seem to charge off and buy new components when in reality, calipers and master cylinders need rebuilding from time to time and the resulting improvement usually brings the system back close to 'brand new' performance.

Performing at their best, the D675 brakes are very good.

Best of luck with this. Circuit Carole? I am very jealous ...

O.B

 

[alexmc]

..air in the brake lines could be the problem..

I've been racing the D675 for 3 years now, and yes have experienced brake fade a FEW times, but only at heavy braking continuesly on small tracks (as we have in my area)

i upgraded the brakes with IPONE, racing brake fluid. it got the problem done. it has a higher boiling point, 300 degrees celcius.

been racing with SBS and Galfer sinter (highsport..whatever they are called) and have got great brake performance.

stock brakemaster and galfer wavediscs. ..untill now..
but due to a serious chrash this summer, a mounted the stock brakediscs again (the galfer wave discs broke)

~ Alex

 

[AlexSchooots]

A relatively simple upgrade of stopping power is to replace the stock discs by a set that is 5mm larger in diameter, and to add 2.5mm rings under the caliper mounting.
You'd still be able to get the calipers on & off the disc, while having a couple of % more stopping power...

 

[Nobody]

+1 on full brake bleed and new pads. This will solve your problem of 'brake fade'. Probably all three of these things are happening to you:
1) Air is in the system. The more you brake the hotter the fluid (and air) in the lines get. When you heat air it expands. When this happens your brake lever will go to the throttle stop before any fluid is actually compressed.
2) Your brake fluid is old and needs replacement. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time (race fluid absorbs even quicker). As it absorbs moisture, the boiling point drops dramatically. When you brake really hard several times the heat from just the compression of fluid heats the fluid (not to mention the rotor/pads heating up the fluid through the caliper). Once the fluid boils, you've got air in your system and again, the lever gets spongey. You probably have amber fluid (in your reservoir) get some ATE Blue and run the blue fluid through until blue comes out the nipple of both front calipers.
3) Your pads are overheating. If you're on the track, use track pads. If the pads are a particularly aggressive compound, make sure you heat them up a little first. (If you don't you can get what's called rotor splash...looks like solder all over the place.)

Guaranteed you don't need to buy anything to solve your problem and other than air/old fluid/pads, your brakes are fine.

 

[Ruby Racing]

+1 on full brake bleed and new pads. This will solve your problem of 'brake fade'. Probably all three of these things are happening to you:
1) Air is in the system. The more you brake the hotter the fluid (and air) in the lines get. When you heat air it expands. When this happens your brake lever will go to the throttle stop before any fluid is actually compressed.
2) Your brake fluid is old and needs replacement. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time (race fluid absorbs even quicker). As it absorbs moisture, the boiling point drops dramatically. When you brake really hard several times the heat from just the compression of fluid heats the fluid (not to mention the rotor/pads heating up the fluid through the caliper). Once the fluid boils, you've got air in your system and again, the lever gets spongey. You probably have amber fluid (in your reservoir) get some ATE Blue and run the blue fluid through until blue comes out the nipple of both front calipers.
3) Your pads are overheating. If you're on the track, use track pads. If the pads are a particularly aggressive compound, make sure you heat them up a little first. (If you don't you can get what's called rotor splash...looks like solder all over the place.)

Guaranteed you don't need to buy anything to solve your problem and other than air/old fluid/pads, your brakes are fine.

For a Nobody, he certainly talks a load of sense. :thumbup: