[Aplinist]

I got my Daytona late spring and rode the guts out of it all summer, multiple track days, and I’m getting really excited to try club racing/street gp next season. My Daytona is fairly stock, aside from rearsets/exhaust/quick shifter. I have a 2017 675r. Do you think I should leave it as is? Or is there a must have upgrade ( I was leaning toward bodywork for weight shaving ).
Would you guys recommend I build the race bike over the winter or just race it as is next season and get a taste for racing first. I’m not amazing but I came a long way on the track this summer, pretty fast “B”rider.
Any thoughts or things I need to consider/get in order before next season?

 

[NewYork]

I got my Daytona late spring and rode the guts out of it all summer, multiple track days, and I’m getting really excited to try club racing/street gp next season. My Daytona is fairly stock, aside from rearsets/exhaust/quick shifter. I have a 2017 675r. Do you think I should leave it as is? Or is there a must have upgrade ( I was leaning toward bodywork for weight shaving ).
Would you guys recommend I build the race bike over the winter or just race it as is next season and get a taste for racing first. I’m not amazing but I came a long way on the track this summer, pretty fast “B”rider.
Any thoughts or things I need to consider/get in order before next season?

Depending on where you are located, racing most likely will only be a possibility for you if you have an enclosed/sealed belly pan. So fiberglass/carbon fiber bodywork is more or less a must if you are planning to race the bike. Not to mention track bodywork provides the ease of having only 3 big pieces to remove to strip the bike completely, as opposed to 100 little ones.

If you plan on continuing to ride in the street as well I would suggest buying a second bike…one street one track is the way to go.


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[MGFChapin]

^ Yep, you'll need race bodywork to go racing. Also a good idea to get aftermarket clip-ons that are easily replaceable at the track when you break one. Pick up some spare footpegs, levers & bars. Otherwise the bike itself is ready to race.

You should start racing as soon as you're not a menace to everyone else around you. Take your local new racer school and if they give you the OK, go for it. Nothing helps you improve faster than racing. However, to warn you, nothing is more addictive.

One last thing - you can never spend too much on safety gear. Get the best helmet you possibly can, and if you don't already have an airbag, I can't recommend them highly enough. I also lump good tires into the "safety gear" category. Don't race Shinkos to save a few bucks.

 

[ducdiver]

Case savers like GB racing or woodcraft and a front brake lever guard are required most places I believe.

 

[Aplinist]

Thanks for the replies guys, I do have case savers and sliders all the way around the bike, I don’t have a nice airbag suit yet but it’s definitely on the list(requirement at my track I believe). I still ride street with maniacs from the track so I was thinking get a used s1krr for street riding, as we do fairly long loops and stuff and I’m tired of bouncing rev limiter in 6th for long periods of time trying to keep up with the liters on the straight desert highways. All great info thanks guys, I still want to try out real slicks, I run Rosso corsa2s and people tell me while those are great tires, nothing compares to a good slick

 

[Far Canal]

Race tyres are definitely good insurance at the track. I run Pirelli Supercorsas, SC1 front, SC2 rear.
You will need fiberglass race fairings for ease of fitment and repair, plus the fully enclosed bellypan. You will crash. It's not a matter of if, but when.
I found a quick action throttle to be helpful.
Get the gearing right for the tracks you ride. Do you use a 520 set-up?

 

[Renboy]

Don't forget a second set of wheels with wets on them (depending on climate).

 

[SallyB]

Here's a handy dandy checklist that's probably on the AFM site but whatever: