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I finished the install today, also have a strange lever feel.
I could not get my setup to come out to 1.0-1.5mm clearance. the closest I could get was about 1.9mm (by removing the judder spring and other spacer thing that is with it). As a result, i fear it's not optimally slipping.

Does anybody know if any of the shim kits that yoyodyne sells will fit our bike? or is there any other shim out there designed for our bike?

http://www.yoyodyneti.com/category.aspx?categoryID=2958
 

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Do not have a yoyodyne slipper but do have a STM slipper, I know when I installed mine I had to get a different thickness steel plate from Triumph to get the proper measurement, I am sure you could do the same for yours.
 

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When installing the Yoyo clutch basket, did you:

  • Re-use the stock flat washer and belville washer before putting on the 30mm nut
  • re-use the stock flat washer, belville washer, AND conical shaped washer that yoyo provided
  • or just use the conical shaped washer that yoyo provided?

Thanks!
I too am running into this problem--not sure whether to re-use the stock Triumph washers behind the 30mm nut or to somehow incorporate the one that came with the Yoyodyne...anyone?
 

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just re-read some of the posts, and it seems like using the Yoyodyne conical washer is not necessary, so I just re-used the stock triumph washers...

I ended up having to leave out the judder spring and it's backing plate in order to make the ~1mm difference pre and post. We'll see how she runs in the morning on a test run...
 

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got it all installed, test rode it on the street, seemed to work fine. I ended up leaving out the judder spring and it's associated backing plate to end up near the 1mm difference.
 

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What motion pro clutch holding tool is used with this clutch?
I used this tool:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HS4NA8/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00

The only issues with it are that the jaws didn't quite perfectly clamp onto the Yoyo clutch basket, so it's easy to mar the relatively soft aluminum. If I had to do it over again, I'd probably use some kind of duct tape to wrap around the jaws...

Overall, install was pretty easy provided you read this thread. The specific parts you leave out (like the judder spring, etc...) may vary, due to manufacturing tolerances...
 

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I had mine installed by someone and it works great.. does anyone know how to have it slip a little less.. Like have a slight amount of engine break to settle the rear when entering a corner? I feel like if it is all slip and I do all my braking with my front brake the bike won't be as settled as I'd like.. I just want it to work like an OEM slipper such as gsxr, kawi, etc.
 

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Just installed

Just completed this install over the weekend with the help of this thread and a Youtube video. As previously stated, the instructions on the provided disc were not the greatest.

At some points, I wondered if I had the correct slipper despite the markings on it, because the groves on the Yoyodyne mounting point were a slightly different shape from the groves on the shaft in the clutch basket. The Yoyodyne didn't just easily slide into place like the OEM slid on and off. It took a little bit of muscle.

Putting the clutch cover back on and ensuring that the connection was made inside with the pull pin was a challenge. Strangely, my clutch cover didn't have a gasket to remove or any residue to clean off. I installed a new clutch cover gasket anyway.

Depth of the pressure plate was within spec, as were the stock friction plates, although they were on the low end of the serviceable range. I can't wait to try it out.
 

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I had mine installed by someone and it works great.. does anyone know how to have it slip a little less.. Like have a slight amount of engine break to settle the rear when entering a corner? I feel like if it is all slip and I do all my braking with my front brake the bike won't be as settled as I'd like.. I just want it to work like an OEM slipper such as gsxr, kawi, etc.
I think the red or grey buckets that go on top of the springs help determine how much engine braking you get. Underneath your clutch cover, do you have red buckets around the screws, or grey buckets?
 

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Awesome write-up! Big thanks to the OP for the info; once I figured out how to read the picture of re-inserting the clutch plates/springs (starting from the engine case - 'special' friction plate goes in right before the judder spring - doh!)

Now I can't wait for a decent day here in NC to try it out - and for next season to really put it through it's paces!

Thanks again to the people on this forum for sharing info like this - big :thumbsup:
 

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Judder Spring removal

I've experienced the same problem with running out of adjustability. I think what I did wrong was although I moved the judder spring and metal ring, I did not move the order of the special friction plate. The special friction plate has room for the metal ring the judder spring rides on to fit inside. I'm going to double check when I get home. I'm pretty sure I'll find I didn't move the special friction plate, and when I do it'll go back together as intended.
 

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Yep, that's exactly what I did. Went together perfect with plenty of adjustability. Make sure you move the special friction plate with the judder spring and judder ring.
 

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I'm actually just going to replace the friction plates in my clutch and am reading this as food for thought. I do have a Yoyodyne already in there, and I want to make sure that I put the new plates in the right way.

One thing that struck me was the importance of getting the ~1mm clearance. I haven't opened up the clutch yet (this will be my first time trying to change a clutch...), but I'm trying to conceptualize how to measure this distance. As great as the initial how-to was, I didn't find the part where the measurement is taken very clear. Namely, what exactly is being measured? And when should the measurements be taken? Is the "before" before you've taken off the old plates, etc.? Does anyone have other photos for this, or a more detailed explanation?

It seems that this ~1mm is hard to get and requires you to take away that spring and plate and some times it doesn't. My guess is just how much meat is on the plates when you make the swap. I want to make sure that I get this right and would love some insight on to how to make this measurement.

Cheers,

JB
 

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If I recall correctly the most important measurement is the stack height with the plates and the shims. When I bought the Barrett Clutch Kit it came with only enough parts to get the job done so I just threw it in and didn't measure it...worked fine.

I'm sure someone else more knowledgeable will chime in though
 

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With mine using the judder spring caused issued, pulled it out and never a problem since. over 10,000 miles, street & track use.
 

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If I recall correctly the most important measurement is the stack height with the plates and the shims. When I bought the Barrett Clutch Kit it came with only enough parts to get the job done so I just threw it in and didn't measure it...worked fine.

I'm sure someone else more knowledgeable will chime in though
Thanks for this. As in you measure it BEFORE you take out the old ones and install the Yoyodyne, compared to another measurement that you make AFTER you have installed the Yoyodyne? I.e., when they are in the clutch basket on the machine?

I guess if I already have a slipper in there, there's no way for me to tell if I have the right change in distance (~1mm) anyway...?
 
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