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As I was trying to install the APE Manual CCT myself, one of the screw's head broke on me :/ Just something to be aware about if you feel like you're forcibly screwing the whole set in...
Sorry to hear about the screw, definitely a bummer.

I am familiar with this APE cct screw issue... went to install on my '06 and the screws would not go in all the way. I was worried about stripping the aluminum threads, as I was torquing it pretty good and tried resetting multiple times.

I cut my screws with a hack saw by ~1-2mm, filed off the burrs, and they seated perfectly.
 

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I just tried to install the APE tensioner this evening. At some point, they've redesigned the part, and it doesn't fit. It seems the original were fairly thick, and used the factory bolts, and no one seemed to have issues. Now, they are thinner and come with allen bolts. The allen bolts bottom out on the threads (not the hole) and never snug down the part to the block. As noted by others, you'll break the bolt or strip the hole before it tightens down.

I've emailed, and may call tomorrow to find out how they will address this.

My preference is the thicker one (as shown on their web site) as it allows the use of factory bolts (which will match the other case bolts). I figured I'd give APE a try as it's FAR less $$$ than the Triumph part, but if it doesn't fit, it's not an option.
 

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At some point, they've redesigned the part, and it doesn't fit. It seems the original were fairly thick, and used the factory bolts, and no one seemed to have issues. Now, they are thinner and come with allen bolts. The allen bolts bottom out on the threads (not the hole) and never snug down the part to the block. As noted by others, you'll break the bolt or strip the hole before it tightens down.
I always wondered why nobody in the past seemed to indicate that they had this issue in earlier comments, back when I did the mod. Now I understand. I'd definitely be interested in hearing what they say back to you.

For those of you who are considering this mod before they fix the issue, if you use a hack saw to take off 1-2mm on the screws and a file to take off the burrs, it will work just fine. Don't let this APE error dissuade you from doing this mod. It significantly increased the fun of riding for me, getting rid of that nasty rattle between 6-8k RPMs.
 
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Installed an APE MCCT today in a 2006 Daytona. Yes, I did follow the instructions!!

There was noticeably MORE noise at start up and while running at 4-6k. I didn't rev it any more just in case.

Thinking I was dreaming, I put the OEM one back in and it was definitely quieter.

When I pulled the OEM one out there was only about 10mm of arm extended, so either the spring was new or the chain has seen little stretch (maybe that's reasonably new too...??!!).

Thoughts??
 

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Just curious... what is the purpose of setting the timing marks at the beginning of the whole procedure?

I'm thinking that the tensioner should work regardless of the position of the timing chain.

Is aligning the timing marks just a way to confirm that the timing cams haven't slipped during the swap? Such that you check the timing marks at the end of the tensioner swap, to make sure everything is still kosher?

Or is there something special at TDC, such as the cam chain being the loosest there and starting with the tensioner from that point?
 

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I'm kind of lost here. I ordered the part and now looking through the posts I realized that I don't have any weird vibrations at 6-8 thousand but at idle it ticks. I have an 09 Daytona. Is the tick at idle normal?
 

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Sorry if I missed this on the previous 38 pages...

Just curious... what is the purpose of setting the timing marks at the beginning of the whole procedure?

I'm thinking that the tensioner should work regardless of the position of the timing chain.

Is aligning the timing marks just a way to confirm that the timing cams haven't slipped during the swap? Such that you check the timing marks at the end of the tensioner swap, to make sure everything is still kosher?

Or is there something special at TDC, such as the cam chain being the loosest there and starting with the tensioner from that point?
 

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Sorry if I missed this on the previous 38 pages...

Just curious... what is the purpose of setting the timing marks at the beginning of the whole procedure?

I'm thinking that the tensioner should work regardless of the position of the timing chain.

Is aligning the timing marks just a way to confirm that the timing cams haven't slipped during the swap? Such that you check the timing marks at the end of the tensioner swap, to make sure everything is still kosher?

Or is there something special at TDC, such as the cam chain being the loosest there and starting with the tensioner from that point?
it really shouldn't matter. once you have the ape tensioner tensioned they tell you to rotate the engine through a few crank rotations to tighten any additional slack in the chain. so you're moving away from TDC there anyway.
 

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Sorry if I missed this on the previous 38 pages...

Just curious... what is the purpose of setting the timing marks at the beginning of the whole procedure?

I'm thinking that the tensioner should work regardless of the position of the timing chain.

Is aligning the timing marks just a way to confirm that the timing cams haven't slipped during the swap? Such that you check the timing marks at the end of the tensioner swap, to make sure everything is still kosher?

Or is there something special at TDC, such as the cam chain being the loosest there and starting with the tensioner from that point?
It kind of is important as if the chain jumps a tooth on the intake/exhaust cams, it will be a lot easier and safer to just realign the cams at TDC rather guess where they should have been or rotating the engine with incorrect cam timing.
 

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I read somewhere that TDC is where the timing chain is at its loosest. Doesn't seem to make sense to me, as aren't all the sprockets located in fixed locations? It's not as if the chain sits on the cam lobes themselves which are eccentric.

Any way to ensure the chain hasn't slipped before firing up the engine? I guess for the really paranoid, would this work? Put a paint mark on the timing chain when you first find TDC, and then confirm it's still in the same position once the new tensioner is place, and the engine turned around a couple revolutions?

I finished the APE install on mine and so far haven't blown up the engine. But wasn't comfortable with the leap of faith of firing up the engine without some form of prelim double check.
 

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Getting ready to install APE tensioner on the bike. Read through the OP instructions which are very helpful. No mention of blocking the automatic tensioner oil pressure passage like the APE website mentions to prevent loss of oil pressure.
For those that have installed a manual tensioner did you block the passage or not?
 

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I read somewhere that TDC is where the timing chain is at its loosest. Doesn't seem to make sense to me, as aren't all the sprockets located in fixed locations? It's not as if the chain sits on the cam lobes themselves which are eccentric.

Any way to ensure the chain hasn't slipped before firing up the engine? I guess for the really paranoid, would this work? Put a paint mark on the timing chain when you first find TDC, and then confirm it's still in the same position once the new tensioner is place, and the engine turned around a couple revolutions?

I finished the APE install on mine and so far haven't blown up the engine. But wasn't comfortable with the leap of faith of firing up the engine without some form of prelim double check.
If you wedge the plastic tensioner blade before fitting the manual tensioner there's no way the chain can jump. You could always remove the plugs and spin it over slowly by hand afterwards to make sure nothing interferes.
 

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Cam Chain tensioner went kaput at the track. Used this on to replace with a different cam chain tensioner. Thanks for the post. Was a ***** resetting the new cam tensioner spring but once I got the hang of it it was ok. Going to install a manual tensioner once I get home.
 
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