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2,459 Posts
Get an extractor and replace it
Sorry to hear about the screw, definitely a bummer.As I was trying to install the APE Manual CCT myself, one of the screw's head broke on me :/ Just something to be aware about if you feel like you're forcibly screwing the whole set in...
I always wondered why nobody in the past seemed to indicate that they had this issue in earlier comments, back when I did the mod. Now I understand. I'd definitely be interested in hearing what they say back to you.At some point, they've redesigned the part, and it doesn't fit. It seems the original were fairly thick, and used the factory bolts, and no one seemed to have issues. Now, they are thinner and come with allen bolts. The allen bolts bottom out on the threads (not the hole) and never snug down the part to the block. As noted by others, you'll break the bolt or strip the hole before it tightens down.
it really shouldn't matter. once you have the ape tensioner tensioned they tell you to rotate the engine through a few crank rotations to tighten any additional slack in the chain. so you're moving away from TDC there anyway.Sorry if I missed this on the previous 38 pages...
Just curious... what is the purpose of setting the timing marks at the beginning of the whole procedure?
I'm thinking that the tensioner should work regardless of the position of the timing chain.
Is aligning the timing marks just a way to confirm that the timing cams haven't slipped during the swap? Such that you check the timing marks at the end of the tensioner swap, to make sure everything is still kosher?
Or is there something special at TDC, such as the cam chain being the loosest there and starting with the tensioner from that point?
It kind of is important as if the chain jumps a tooth on the intake/exhaust cams, it will be a lot easier and safer to just realign the cams at TDC rather guess where they should have been or rotating the engine with incorrect cam timing.Sorry if I missed this on the previous 38 pages...
Just curious... what is the purpose of setting the timing marks at the beginning of the whole procedure?
I'm thinking that the tensioner should work regardless of the position of the timing chain.
Is aligning the timing marks just a way to confirm that the timing cams haven't slipped during the swap? Such that you check the timing marks at the end of the tensioner swap, to make sure everything is still kosher?
Or is there something special at TDC, such as the cam chain being the loosest there and starting with the tensioner from that point?
If you wedge the plastic tensioner blade before fitting the manual tensioner there's no way the chain can jump. You could always remove the plugs and spin it over slowly by hand afterwards to make sure nothing interferes.I read somewhere that TDC is where the timing chain is at its loosest. Doesn't seem to make sense to me, as aren't all the sprockets located in fixed locations? It's not as if the chain sits on the cam lobes themselves which are eccentric.
Any way to ensure the chain hasn't slipped before firing up the engine? I guess for the really paranoid, would this work? Put a paint mark on the timing chain when you first find TDC, and then confirm it's still in the same position once the new tensioner is place, and the engine turned around a couple revolutions?
I finished the APE install on mine and so far haven't blown up the engine. But wasn't comfortable with the leap of faith of firing up the engine without some form of prelim double check.
6000 street miles is a safe number.How many miles between rechecking the manual tensioner?