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How-to: Install Race Cam Chain Tensioner

215726 Views 385 Replies 136 Participants Last post by  David CU
Here is my how-to guide for replacing the OEM cam chain tensioner with the official Triumph Race Cam Chain Tensioner kit. I apologize for not taking photos.

Purpose: To race modify your bike for racing and track day use, or as in my case, to eliminate once and for all the annoying buzzing/rattling from the cam chain. If you suffer this noise, which is fairly obvious and sounds like a rattle or buzz that occurs between 6000~8000 RPM and comes from the right upper side of the engine, near the handlebar area, you can eliminate it with the race CCT. The OEM CCT will only apply so much tension, and if your cam chain loosens over time, sufficient tensioning may no longer be applied by the OEM CCT, and at these RPMs the cam chain can actually start to rattle against the insides of the crank case, creating a very annoying sound. It could cause possible damage if left unchecked, leading to the cam chain snapping (as it did in my case). Although this issue has never been formally addressed by Triumph, they have in fact replaced their OEM CCT in the new for '09 Daytona with a new type. I recommend this mod to anybody experiencing the cam chain rattle/noise because it is an inexpensive and fairly simple fix to a potentially devastating and annoying issue with our bikes.

What You Need:

Race Cam Chain Tensioner ($105) from www.pure-triumph.com or ($52) from http://www.aperaceparts.com
Basic tools (metric sockets, wrenches, nothing you won't already have from tooling on the 675).

Opening the crank case:

1. Leave motorcycle on side stand, in Neutral and allow to cool completely. Remove only the right side fairing.

2. Remove the crankcase cover bolts, and make note of the one with the copper sealing washer (it is obvious where it goes when you put it back together).



3. Remove the crankcase cover and the crankcase sealing gasket. Clean the gasket of any oil and put aside for later. (If gasket is in poor shape you should replace it with a new one. It does not require silicone gasket maker sealer.)

4. Using a socket wrench (24mm socket), turn the crank clockwise until you reach Top Dead Center (TDC) which is when the little dot on the gear (1) lines up with the marker line (2) in the engine case.



5. Find a suitable wedge (piece of wood, rubber tubing, rag) to wedge between the cam chain tensioner guide and the crankcase wall to keep tension on the cam chain so it will not move when removing the old cam chain tensioner.



Removing the old tensioner:

1. Remove the center nut on the CCT and remove the spring inside it.

2. Remove the two bolts securing the CCT and remove the entire CCT unit.



Installing the Race CCT:

1. Assemble the Race CCT if necessary by putting the small o-ring on the long plunger bolt and apply some oil to it and thread it through the race CCT body. Thread it all the way through so that it is in it's fully backed-out position (as pictured below). Loosely thread the lock-nut to the threaded part of the plunger bolt. Apply the large o-ring to the Race CCT body and apply some oil to that o-ring as well.



2. Install the Race CCT and secure it with the two bolts provided. Torque to 9 N-m.

3. Hand tighten the plunger until you feel it meet some resistance when it contacts the cam chain tensioner guide (you won't see it so you have to go by feel). When you are sure you have hand-tightened the plunger up against the guide, you can safely remove the wedge you were using.

4. Now (using a 24mm socket) begin turning the crank again in a clockwise direction while applying light hand-tightening pressure on the plunger. Whenever there is slack you will feel the plunger tighten, that is, it will screw in bit by bit as it takes up the slack while rotating the crank. Continue until the plunger no longer tightens/turns while rotating the crank and all the slack has been taken up.

5. Now back the plunger off 1/4 turn.

6. Now tighten down the lock nut to a torque of 9 N-m, and make sure the plunger does not turn while tightening the lock nut.

Reassembly:

1. Put the crankcase gasket in place. (Clean it off of any old oil that may be on it.)

2. Put the crank case cover in place, and secure with original bolts to a torque of 9 N-m. Make sure to replace the copper washer to it's appropriate location.

3. Replace the right side fairing.

4. Ride or race!

Conclusion:

I have done this mod and my cam chain noises, buzzes, rattles, vibrations - whatever we call them - the annoying stuff that our bike does between 6000~8000 RPM have been eliminated! This has to be one of my favorite mods as a result because the bike is simply perfect again. It's also nice to know that if the buzz comes back for any reason, it's easy enough to re-adjust the Race CCT to take up any new slack that may occur in the chain, keeping the chain buzz free and safe from damaging itself.

I hope this how-to is of use to anybody wishing to do this mod. I am not a mechanically inclined or engine person at all and I was able to do this mod with no trouble... so enjoy!
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Just curious... what is the purpose of setting the timing marks at the beginning of the whole procedure?

I'm thinking that the tensioner should work regardless of the position of the timing chain.

Is aligning the timing marks just a way to confirm that the timing cams haven't slipped during the swap? Such that you check the timing marks at the end of the tensioner swap, to make sure everything is still kosher?

Or is there something special at TDC, such as the cam chain being the loosest there and starting with the tensioner from that point?
Sorry if I missed this on the previous 38 pages...

Just curious... what is the purpose of setting the timing marks at the beginning of the whole procedure?

I'm thinking that the tensioner should work regardless of the position of the timing chain.

Is aligning the timing marks just a way to confirm that the timing cams haven't slipped during the swap? Such that you check the timing marks at the end of the tensioner swap, to make sure everything is still kosher?

Or is there something special at TDC, such as the cam chain being the loosest there and starting with the tensioner from that point?
I read somewhere that TDC is where the timing chain is at its loosest. Doesn't seem to make sense to me, as aren't all the sprockets located in fixed locations? It's not as if the chain sits on the cam lobes themselves which are eccentric.

Any way to ensure the chain hasn't slipped before firing up the engine? I guess for the really paranoid, would this work? Put a paint mark on the timing chain when you first find TDC, and then confirm it's still in the same position once the new tensioner is place, and the engine turned around a couple revolutions?

I finished the APE install on mine and so far haven't blown up the engine. But wasn't comfortable with the leap of faith of firing up the engine without some form of prelim double check.
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