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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So after this being the biggest nightmare ever i decided to post about it incase anyone else has similar problems.

My reg/rec decided to go, WHich is the most common fault with the daytona.. I have an 06 model and an 08 SE but it was the 06 which went... Riding home I noticed my tacho lights getting weaker and weaker... Got home, turned off the bike. It wouldnt turn back on.

Instead electrics would come up as usual... then the intead of starting it would make a large CLICK sound and the guages would go nuts.. So I thought i could be the battery... Changed it to the one from my 08.. THen the bike started up... All good... Next mornign i went to ride it.. Turned on the bike... put my helpet and gloves on... Then noticed smoke pooring out from under the tank. My heart sank.. Ithough i have totally fked all the electrics. I switched off the bike.

Took the tank off ( see How to remove Tank)

then realised it was the burnt out cable leading out of the REC/REG... So I took the old one out... Not too hard, Only 2 screws. Have to pull out from the exhaust side. Unplugged the cables pulled them through.

Purchased a new MOSFET Reg/Rec from. MOSFET is the type of metal which is cooler and allows more volts to run through. Much better unit and less likely to break.

http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/2006-2009-Triumph-Daytona-675-Regulator-Rectifier-MOSFET

cheaper then the $600 stock (crappy) one my mechanic quoted me over the phone... What a fkn joke...

So now Ill wait a week then just screw in to the existing spot. Plug in it... Ill need a new 3 pin plug.. Then it shoudl hopefully work fine... Ill keep updating as I go.

It also might fix a problem Im having with the engine dumping way to much fuel... my economy has been terrible and Im guessing that is why. As the Reg/Rec wasnt giving enough juice to components to control fuel maps properly. Or something like that.
 

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Good thread, this should be made a sticky.

My R/R went. The only notice I had was that the fuel light came on when the fuel wasn't low. 30 seconds later whilst ridng my bike cut out and wouldn't start. the symptoms were as follows:

1. Fuel light comes on when fuel is not low.
2. LCD display appears weak.
3. Lights are dim
4. Engine Management light can appear (mine did intermittently during several attempts to start it).
5. My tacho needle froze at 2,500RPM for a while. This was the speed the bike was doing when it cut out.

I believe you can experience one or all of these issues if it fails.
 

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Umm what? The stock new unit that's a good MOSFET one is not $600 I believe it's under $200 and again it's a good one not the old crappy one. I can't slam a guy for trying to save money though I just want you to post the facts.

Also of course there is the definite charging system upgrade thread which details nearly all of this.

The Definitive 675 Charging Diagnostic/Upgrade Thread - Triumph675.Net Forums
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Umm what? The stock new unit that's a good MOSFET one is not $600 I believe it's under $200 and again it's a good one not the old crappy one. I can't slam a guy for trying to save money though I just want you to post the facts.

Also of course there is the definite charging system upgrade thread which details nearly all of this.

The Definitive 675 Charging Diagnostic/Upgrade Thread - Triumph675.Net Forums
Yeah bandit. I know its not $600 but thats what my mechanic... The only (Triumph specialist mechanic in melbourne - Turn One) tried to charge me for a new one when I rang him up to do it...

As you can see in my post... ITs what my mechanic told me it cost... Imagine if you didnt know and someone actually paid that?

When I said there was an aftermarket one for $150 he made a slide comment and told me to buy it myself. SO i am, as well as doing the labour and fix.. His loss.

Also im happy to detail it all again... COs when I did a search Reg/Rec it didnt come up :rofl2:
 

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Umm what? The stock new unit that's a good MOSFET one is not $600 I believe it's under $200 and again it's a good one not the old crappy one. I can't slam a guy for trying to save money though I just want you to post the facts.

Also of course there is the definite charging system upgrade thread which details nearly all of this.

The Definitive 675 Charging Diagnostic/Upgrade Thread - Triumph675.Net Forums
I don't think you US and UK guys appreciate how badly we get ripped off in Oz. My dealer told me that the price for the new MOSFET R/R was over $500. Of course, I had mine done on warranty (good job too) but from what I see with many other things, Triumph parts included we pay a hell of a lot more than you guys do.

My Triumph Lennox jacket is a good example:

Triumph Australia - $650
Trumph America - Around $400
Triumph UK - $190! Okay it was on special but it's normal cost was $360.

I wouldn't be surprised at all if a 3rd party mechanic was charging over $600 for the R/R once he's added his cut of the pie.
 

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Good thread, this should be made a sticky.

My R/R went. The only notice I had was that the fuel light came on when the fuel wasn't low. 30 seconds later whilst ridng my bike cut out and wouldn't start. the symptoms were as follows:

1. Fuel light comes on when fuel is not low.
2. LCD display appears weak.
3. Lights are dim
4. Engine Management light can appear (mine did intermittently during several attempts to start it).
5. My tacho needle froze at 2,500RPM for a while. This was the speed the bike was doing when it cut out.

I believe you can experience one or all of these issues if it fails.
My (new to me) '08 did pretty much the same thing with 1200 miles on it.

I just replaced the r/r with a new one that I purchased from regulatorrectifier.com for about $150
 

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I hope you guys have read through the stickied r/r guide from Decosse. He lays out a plan which will eliminate the majority of problems with the charging system. For $60 US I got an 07 CBR600 r/r and wiring to replace my old crap that likes to burn up.

Only thing left to replace is the stator wires but that'll be put on the back burner for now as I couldn't locate the plug from the stator so.
 

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I'd like to avoid this issue if I can. Just bought an '09 Daytona which I believe still has the stock RR. Can I just buy this one and its a simple plug and play swap? I won't need to solder anything?
 

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If you buy the RegulatorRectifier.com one its also plug and play.
Also more expensive then getting the FH008 model off a CBR and separate connectors to mount up.
 

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The plug and play ones will be atleast twice what you should pay for the harness and mosfet r/r. It's just a little more work but well worth the little effort needed, and it should prevent the burned harness.
 

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MOSFET is the type of metal which is cooler and allows more volts to run through. Much better unit and less likely to break.
MOSFET stands for Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor and has nothing to do with the type of metal being used. It is a transistor located inside of the R/R and is used as a replacement for the old SCR method of switching.
 

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I don't trust my wiring ability to go the DIY wiring route. I'll gladly pay extra for that peace of mind... I'd kick myself if I tried to go the cheap route and burned up my damn bike, or worse yet myself to save $100 on a $6k machine.

I swapped out the stock R/R for the one from the website the OP suggested.
 

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You've already swapped them out but the DIY was super easy with the How-to instructions from d'ecosse.

I don't trust my wiring ability to go the DIY wiring route. I'll gladly pay extra for that peace of mind... I'd kick myself if I tried to go the cheap route and burned up my damn bike, or worse yet myself to save $100 on a $6k machine.

I swapped out the stock R/R for the one from the website the OP suggested.
 

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Can anyone please post a picture of where they are located and what the new and old ones should look like? I'm a newbie to bike mechanics and have searched everywhere(without taking anything off the bike) and can't seem to see anything that looks like an r/r.
 

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The fairing infill panels, the things next to the tank, take off the right one. It's underneath that. It's attached to one of the bolts that hold the nose fairing to the side fairing. It's a huge grey motherboard looking thing, can't miss it.
 
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