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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok sorry for the new post but its killing me here....

I need to know the following:
If you have done a 520 conversion --
A) What company and teeth is your Front and Rear sproket ? (driven 15 vortex 55)
B) What chain AND links you ended up useing (MV / 134)
C) Ride~en style (like 80%STREET/20%TRACK etc...)
D) Any other notes if you got one (like I got the chain purly for color etc...)

In my other thread I had a good question raised to me on the duribility of DRIVEN rear sprocket. I ride my bike HARD and often use the torque to its full effect, demanding engine accel and brakeing to the max, both being transferred to the rear wheel, I do a lil amount of 'stunting' and a lil (HA!) track time as well.

I am hoping this info will also help others and get a trend of what all of us are doing for the chain and sproket issue


Now to find a way to get the jetsons (stanley sprokets) song out of my head!
 

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We have done quite a few at the shop and what we usually use is:
JT front sprocket (stock or down 1)
Sprocket Specialists or PMP rear (Stock all the way up to 4 up in the rear)
DIDERV3 520 Gold Chain cut to length.

Mostly the 520 conversions we have done have been on 100% track bikes.
 

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For the way you ride (mostly street) save your self some cash. You wont notice the difference doing the 520. You can get a 48 - 50 t rear sprocket slide it in the stocker chain adjust it and ride. you can even with a 47-50t rear sprocket and drop 1 in the front adjust it and ride in any combination. When you turn her in to a track only bike and your trying to shave time then it is a reasonable expense. If your just dying to spend unnecessary $$$ buy a shiny aluminum or anodized rear. Those combination's are already gonna have a shorter life expectancy.
 

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MY 520 conversion consist of:

Pitbull front and rear sprockets (-1, +1)
EK Chain (Gold, 120 link but I think used 117???)
Style: 90% street, 10% track

*****Note: Don't over torque lock nuts onto carrier studs= Bad
 

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I went with Sprocket Specialists (15/48) with a DID ERV3, forget how many links it turned out being after the install was complete. only complaint I have with the sprockets I went with is the rear sprocket was way out of round, therefore there was a huge difference from the loose spot to the tight in the chain, Ive since changed out the rear sprocket with a Renthal (had to order it from the UK) FWIW the SS rear sprocket showed no wear to the naked eye. I also went with a Healtech Speedohealer
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
See this is whats killing me, I am not the track junkie i want to be mostly because of work but I dont want to have to get stuff 2+ times to get it right. I guess I am not into throwing money to the fire, but, not looking to waste it at the end either.

I am looking into chains right now, I really want a gold chain but also want about 9k miles out of the chain with weekly cleanings and every 3 days a lil spray on it. I do A TON of wet weather rideing and live not to far from salt water, so I keep it clean to avoid the elements eating my parts.

as far as sprokets I am still on the side with the alum ones but am worried about there longevity and stressing them....
I got no problems with the front steel on though

ughh

a few more things to buy and FINALLY rebuild time..............
 

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Id prolly stay away from an ERV3 chain if I were you. there are other fine options in gold chains that will offer great wear characteristics. for the ultimate in wear Id get the Super Sprox, but last I checked they werent available until end of March or so. if it eases your mind at all, I generally ride pretty hard and I have had great luck with hard anodized aluminum rear sprockets and ERV3 on my former 05 R6 and my 675, its all in the maintenance and keeping the chain tension in spec.
 

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I put 8000 miles on my DID ERV3 before I sold the old bike and it was still fine with 50% commuting 50% track days. Only 1500 miles on my RK 520 and it's holding up fine too. PitBull front steel and rear aluminum sprockets have 5000 miles, both doing fine. Don't stress too much about aluminum rear, they last longer than you think and they're only $50 to replace.

Both times I did 16/49 and bought 120 link chains, ended up cutting to I think 116 or 117.
 

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Get the DID x-ring gold. I have that on my bike and I like it. Stays lubricated longer, less friction, and may last you longer.
 

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See this is whats killing me, I am not the track junkie i want to be mostly because of work but I dont want to have to get stuff 2+ times to get it right. I guess I am not into throwing money to the fire, but, not looking to waste it at the end either.
I'm not trying to be an ass, but then why go to a 520/aluminum set-up? It is THE least durable combination you can come up with if longevity is a concern.

I am looking into chains right now, I really want a gold chain but also want about 9k miles out of the chain with weekly cleanings and every 3 days a lil spray on it. I do A TON of wet weather rideing and live not to far from salt water, so I keep it clean to avoid the elements eating my parts.
D.I.D or RK X-ring. I have an RK XSO 530 on my Triple at the moment and its around 14-15 thousand miles and I haven't so much as needed to adjust it in 7-8 months. Generally, I find whatever the most expensive top-shelf model is and get s step lower. You'll save $70 for a chain that will last just as long.

as far as sprokets I am still on the side with the alum ones but am worried about there longevity and stressing them....
I got no problems with the front steel on though

ughh

a few more things to buy and FINALLY rebuild time..............
I've had bad experiences with aluminum sprockets, unless it is a race bike I'll never mount them on a street bike again, ever. When they go, you'll check your front and find it has all of five teeth left, or notice that a rear with under 6,000 miles is missing three teeth all at once.

The weight savings doesn't make enough of a difference for me to risk a cracked case with because a final drive failure.

I've kicked around the idea of getting the supersprox, but the Daytona is just a play bike, I do real milage on my Speedy, and it will STAY steel/530.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
checking on the cain and it does look like overkill on a ev111

I am starting to look into staying steel because there is almost no concern of failure

researched a few friends and they all say get two sets on for track one for road

i am thinking right now the road is more key, worst case scenerio I gotta wait to get the track gearing and chain....

one other note I have fitted the race parts from my old motor to my new one going in and that includes the tranny mods.....

ordered my hoses today and getting a flow of brown boxes to get this bike back in order
 

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Why you got to tease us mang! More pics!
 

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So if I buy a 50 tooth sprocket and leave the front the stock, do I have to buy a new chain?
 

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So if I buy a 50 tooth sprocket and leave the front the stock, do I have to buy a new chain?
You might. If your axle is as far back as it'll go, it would probably need to go all the way forward to accommodate a 50T. If the chain is in spec right now and the axle is already forward or in the middle, you won't be able to get enough slack for the 50.

Stock is 47T
 

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I'd say plus two teeth for those cogs but its a

Scientific
Wild
Ass
Guess

That is what I would order though.
 

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+1, I was able to switch back and forth between a 46 and 48 for street & track with the same chain, and that just barely worked.
 

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Why 520?

If you're concerned about longevity just get a 525 chain. An aftermarket 525 rear sprocket is already loads lighter than the stock sprocket. Unless you "really" need the tiny bit extra acceleration and braking power I don't see the point of a 520 conversion.
 

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i am looking at a 525 conversion. I am not sure what i want to do with the teeth yet, can anyone help me if i should leave it stock at 16/47 or go up/down on the sprockets. I do mostly street riding little track. Help me out guys let m eknow what you did and why
 

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Anything other than stock gearing in a 525 pitch is going to be hard to find. Anyone know a good source? Stock is fine for the street & won't throw off your odometer too much. Most people go +2 or 3 rear, or -1 front for the track. I don't think it's worth changing gearing unless you drop the weight w/ aluminum sprox and 520 chain too.
 
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