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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Reroll's teardown thread and MGFChapin's awesome response got me thinking about engine stands. I've seen some universal stands for sale online and was wondering if anyone had one that worked for the 675 / 765 motors. (verses getting creative welding up some tubing / wood etc).

Cheers,
Mike
 

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I've been barking up that tree for years. If we don't get an answer, we need to find someone with a loose spare motor and get a few stands welded up.

I have a stand from Tyga that I absolutely love, for my NSR250. Something similar for the 675 would be so much better in the shop than wood blocks. We just need dimensions for the engine mounts and I can ask a few different local welders for quotes.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've been barking up that tree for years. If we don't get an answer, we need to find someone with a loose spare motor and get a few stands welded up.

I have a stand from Tyga that I absolutely love, for my NSR250. Something similar for the 675 would be so much better in the shop than wood blocks. We just need dimensions for the engine mounts and I can ask a few different local welders for quotes.

I'd get in on that for sure! (c'mon welders on the forum)

I was looking at this one:



I like that it allows you to rotate the motor around but really I just want something like the Tyga. (also not sure if the one above would mount up to a 675.)
 

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That's pretty trick, but it'd be more expensive to build and to ship. The Tyga stand allows you to stably tilt the engine onto either pair of legs, so you could do essentially the same jobs as the fancy rotating stand.
 

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Following this thread because I've been interesting in finding or designing a stand. This became a "thing" over the last year as I helped a friend tear down 3 D675 motors. :) I generally like the idea of something that is adjustable so it can be used on multiple motors.

I've seen that rotisserie-style before but it looks a bit too hokey to me.

My friend and I were thinking about designs which would bolt up to an automotive engine stands to leverage the rotating function. I was also thinking of designing it in a way that it could still function as a regular bench stand..it would just have the provision of bolting to the standard engine mount plate.

The one MGFChapin posted is in the direction I was thinking; I like the fact that the design could accommodate rear mounts with different fore/aft locations. But height and width are also something I'd want to address. For the first: I think using a joint on the frame-side attachment (instead of the threaded rod straight thru the box tube) would allow for a range of rear engine mount heights. Similarly, a heim joint on both ends would give a bit of width adjustment. I feel the adjustable support arms width is important because they should attach as close to the motor as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Came across this homemade one on Facebook. The guy is in the UK, but I asked if we can get specs. I'm also working with a domestic welder to see if we can make a batch of reasonably-priced stands. We'll see.

EXACTLY what I'm looking for!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Ended up breaking down and ordering this one from K&L Supply. Amazon had it for 200 bucks (which yeah, is pricey but better than having a spare factory race engine laying around on the floor)



Pros: Well made and I like that you can rotate the motor to work on it. Can be used for multiple engine designs.
Cons: It was a royal pain in the a** to get up on the stand. I set the motor on some blocks of wood and leveraged it up. Sure would have been nice to have an extra set of hands. Secondly, not sure how much I trust the motor being supported from only the bottom. (Lets see how much weight that long rear stock bolt can handle before it snaps. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ )


(photo for demonstration - I'm NOT leaving it like this)

I would STILL love a stand like the one MGFCHAPIN posted (and continue to use this one for engine servicing) -wink wink- c'mon Paul, hook a brother up! :p
 

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Ended up breaking down and ordering this one from K&L Supply. Amazon had it for 200 bucks (which yeah, is pricey but better than having a spare factory race engine laying around on the floor)



Pros: Well made and I like that you can rotate the motor to work on it. Can be used for multiple engine designs.
Cons: It was a royal pain in the a** to get up on the stand. I set the motor on some blocks of wood and leveraged it up. Sure would have been nice to have an extra set of hands. Secondly, not sure how much I trust the motor being supported from only the bottom. (Lets see how much weight that long rear stock bolt can handle before it snaps. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ )


(photo for demonstration - I'm NOT leaving it like this)

I would STILL love a stand like the one MGFCHAPIN posted (and continue to use this one for engine servicing) -wink wink- c'mon Paul, hook a brother up! :p
What exactly does that stand mount to on the motor? Im thoroughly confused.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
What exactly does that stand mount to on the motor? Im thoroughly confused.
The stand has those adjustable arms with a hole in the end - you line them up with the mounting points on the engine and bolt it up. Pretty straightforward. (I'm using a spacer with the stock rear mounting bolt, which might be what is throwing you off) ;)
 

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The stand has those adjustable arms with a hole in the end - you line them up with the mounting points on the engine and bolt it up. Pretty straightforward. (I'm using a spacer with the stock rear mounting bolt, which might be what is throwing you off) ;)
Oh duh. Now i see it.
 

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If someone can get measurements for me I can book some waterjet time. I have an idea so it would bolt together but be able to ship flat. I wouldn't mind taking this on for the new year.
 

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Curious as to what people in general would want the stand for, working on or storage, or both?

Tenkate do a really neat storage and transport stand but it's only for CBR's and R6 yams with some modification, don't know if it'd work with a daytona with mods?

A stand similar to that but that held the engine via the rear lower mount and rested somewhere towards the front lower of the engine, so you could use it to store the engine and also work on it, leaving just the lower crankcase half in the stand would be kinda neat
 

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We made a couple stands in 2014 for our spare motors. We just used 1" square tube and welded some tabs for the rear motor mounts. The benefit of this over the K and L stand (which we also have) is that you can remove the head or work on the motor while it's still on the stand.

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
We made a couple stands in 2014 for our spare motors. We just used 1" square tube and welded some tabs for the rear motor mounts. The benefit of this over the K and L stand (which we also have) is that you can remove the head or work on the motor while it's still on the stand.

Yeah this immediately crossed my mind after I had the motor in the K&L. It would be fine if I was merely looking to display the motors but I need something solid so I can service them. We just need to get someone to cook up a run of stands like TJ's above.
 

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We made a couple stands in 2014 for our spare motors. We just used 1" square tube and welded some tabs for the rear motor mounts. The benefit of this over the K and L stand (which we also have) is that you can remove the head or work on the motor while it's still on the stand.
That's exactly what we need. I drop my engine every winter anyway, so it'd be nice to do everything with more space out of the frame.

@Thatkid what sort of measurements do you need? Maybe GMike can get some while his engine is out. I'm about to drop mine too but I'd rather have the stand ready to go so it's not sitting on the sump all winter.
 

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@Thatkid what sort of measurements do you need? Maybe GMike can get some while his engine is out. I'm about to drop mine too but I'd rather have the stand ready to go so it's not sitting on the sump all winter.
I would need a height from the floor to the lower rear mount and from the lower mount to the upper mount. The first measurement would need to account for some space under the oil pan. Then a general width. As long as it's a bit wider than the widest mount location, spacers can pick up the slack. And hopefully this one makes sense - From the spine (back upright) to the mount locations. This dimension may be arbitrary since it would just account for the lean angle of the motor, but if there is a motor available might as well grab it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I would need a height from the floor to the lower rear mount and from the lower mount to the upper mount. The first measurement would need to account for some space under the oil pan. Then a general width. As long as it's a bit wider than the widest mount location, spacers can pick up the slack. And hopefully this one makes sense - From the spine (back upright) to the mount locations. This dimension may be arbitrary since it would just account for the lean angle of the motor, but if there is a motor available might as well grab it.
I'm on it like carbon on the Daytona Moto2 765 ;) I'll take all the measurements when I get home from work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
I would need a height from the floor to the lower rear mount and from the lower mount to the upper mount. The first measurement would need to account for some space under the oil pan. Then a general width. As long as it's a bit wider than the widest mount location, spacers can pick up the slack. And hopefully this one makes sense - From the spine (back upright) to the mount locations. This dimension may be arbitrary since it would just account for the lean angle of the motor, but if there is a motor available might as well grab it.


Ok this is what I've got (red for width blue for height):

Width at widest point: 18" (Stator cover to clutch cover)
Width of upper rear mounting point 6.25"
Width of lower rear mounting point 6.5" Note there is a 1" offset between the two (not shown) with the lower off to the clutch side of the bike so some spacers/ wiggle room would be needed (notice on the photo TJ posted of the Riders Discount stand that the tabs are inboard or outboard on the upright)

Height of floor to center of upper rear mount: 19"
Height from floor to center of lower rear mount: 9" (with accommodation for clearance)

Distance from rear mounting points to center of upright on my A&R stand is 7" but you probably want to shorten that up.

Lemme know if this works for you or if you want more measurements @Thatkid
 
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