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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I have an 09 triumph daytona 675 that's been giving me problems for awhile.

It had its r/r burn up on me in which I replaced that and the stator for good measure.

Once I replaced those, the bike ran for a whole day. When I went to go start the bike up, it idled fine but when I went to give it power it died slowly. As if there was a loss of power in the throttle and it wasn't gaining any power.

When you go to start the bike it cranks over but won't start. All three spark plugs are receiving voltage and sending out the proper readings, intake is reading fine, and all other readings checked out normal. You can smell the gas fumes from it trying to turn over. I've checked all electrical connections from things it can be such as my starter or my stator, r/r, or the camshaft sensor

I checked the fault codes on it to see what was happening and it wasn't producing any faults at all. So I went and tore apart the top engine to test the valve clearances on it to see if it is good and havnt found anything out of the ordinary on that though I feel I may have done it wrong.

My friend said it could be bad compression Or the valve clearance is still bad.

I dont have a compression gauge but I can't see it being bad compression from what I've been reading.

If you guys have any tips or things I should check for please let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I should mention that when you do try and start it, while it's cranking over and over it acts as though it's going to start but it's very brief then returns to cranking and cranking
 

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I have recently discovered that a faulty coolant temp sensor can prevent a Daytona from starting. At the track earlier this year I was out for two laps in the first session of the day and by chance noticed my temp at 10 bars (08 Daytona). Pulled into the pits asap and shut the bike off. 10 min later I went to start it and it started and ran fine. I thought the issue was resolved. Then another 20 min later I went to go out for my session and the bike wouldn't start. Thought I blew a head gasket so I parked it and borrowed a friends bike for the day. Left the bike in my trailer for over a month as I didn't have time to fix it and then one day decided to tear into it. Luckily by chance I thought I'd give it one last attempt at starting and it fired right up. Thought it was a glitch and rode it as though nothing happened. Last week at the track my temp gauge was all over the board from full hot to 0 bars in minutes, time for a new sensor.
My street Daytona I had a pinched gas line with the same symptoms, to diagnose that one is easy, just remove the two mounting bolts for the tank at the steering head and prop the tank up so you can visually see the line is not kinked. Start the bike with the tank propped up. If it starts, problem solved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My street Daytona I had a pinched gas line with the same symptoms, to diagnose that one is easy, just remove the two mounting bolts for the tank at the steering head and prop the tank up so you can visually see the line is not kinked. Start the bike with the tank propped up. If it starts, problem solved.
Yeah, I've tried doing this. I have the tank just sitting on my seat right now while still connected. It sputters and sputters but won't start.

Thinking I'll just save up and bring it in to be diagnosed.
 

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Hey guys, I have an 09 triumph daytona 675 that's been giving me problems for awhile.

It had its r/r burn up on me in which I replaced that and the stator for good measure.

Once I replaced those, the bike ran for a whole day. When I went to go start the bike up, it idled fine but when I went to give it power it died slowly. As if there was a loss of power in the throttle and it wasn't gaining any power.

When you go to start the bike it cranks over but won't start. All three spark plugs are receiving voltage and sending out the proper readings, intake is reading fine, and all other readings checked out normal. You can smell the gas fumes from it trying to turn over. I've checked all electrical connections from things it can be such as my starter or my stator, r/r, or the camshaft sensor

I checked the fault codes on it to see what was happening and it wasn't producing any faults at all. So I went and tore apart the top engine to test the valve clearances on it to see if it is good and havnt found anything out of the ordinary on that though I feel I may have done it wrong.

My friend said it could be bad compression Or the valve clearance is still bad.

I dont have a compression gauge but I can't see it being bad compression from what I've been reading.

If you guys have any tips or things I should check for please let me know.
Good Morning, how are things going?

I am typing this before I head to work, so I am in bit of a rush apologize in advance.

1st I would check battery voltage, with nothing on I want to see at least 12v. Then with the voltmeter still hooked up, hit the start button and while the engine is cranking make sure battery voltage is not dropping below 10v. or you can just put a jump box on your battery.

2nd I would switch my voltmeter to ohms, ( I know you said you already replaced your stator and R/R) I would ohm out the CPS spec is ~200ohms. I got 214omhs on my new one. Some new stators have bad crank shaft position sensors.

This a cheap and suprisingly good voltmeter that I use. It was suppose to be my temperary meter until my more expensive one came in the mail, now I use it all the time and keep my expensive one as a back up.

lastly with everything hooked up, while someone else hits the starter button. I would get a can of starter fluid and spray 2 quick sprits through the front intake (leave the air box cover on, some engines back fire flames out of the intake) to see if the bike runs. If it runs that tells me I have good compression and good spark because I am literally spraying fuel into the engine . If not I have no spark or bad compression. Spark you said you already tested so from there you would have to check compression.


If you need any more details please let me know and I'll gladly walk you through it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Good Morning, how are things going?

I am typing this before I head to work, so I am in bit of a rush apologize in advance.

1st I would check battery voltage, with nothing on I want to see at least 12v. Then with the voltmeter still hooked up, hit the start button and while the engine is cranking make sure battery voltage is not dropping below 10v. or you can just put a jump box on your battery.

2nd I would switch my voltmeter to ohms, ( I know you said you already replaced your stator and R/R) I would ohm out the CPS spec is ~200ohms. I got 214omhs on my new one. Some new stators have bad crank shaft position sensors.

This a cheap and suprisingly good voltmeter that I use. It was suppose to be my temperary meter until my more expensive one came in the mail, now I use it all the time and keep my expensive one as a back up.

lastly with everything hooked up, while someone else hits the starter button. I would get a can of starter fluid and spray 2 quick sprits through the front intake (leave the air box cover on, some engines back fire flames out of the intake) to see if the bike runs. If it runs that tells me I have good compression and good spark because I am literally spraying fuel into the engine . If not I have no spark or bad compression. Spark you said you already tested so from there you would have to check compression.


If you need any more details please let me know and I'll gladly walk you through it.
Hello, thanks for the reply.

I've tested the battery out and it tested good. I also thought it was the crank position sensor as well, but that ohmed out good on both my new ones.

I'll have to test the starter fluid and see if that works. That was another thing I thought might be bad, is my compression. Maybe I have a leak somewhere but I'm not too sure where.
 

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Hello, thanks for the reply.

I've tested the battery out and it tested good. I also thought it was the crank position sensor as well, but that ohmed out good on both my new ones.

I'll have to test the starter fluid and see if that works. That was another thing I thought might be bad, is my compression. Maybe I have a leak somewhere but I'm not too sure where.
Lastly I would check your vacuum lines. *knock on wood * i haven't had this issue yet, but I heard i bought the 1st Gen bikes have a vacuum line near the throttle body assembly failing.

Let me know what you find, I am genuinely curious :)
 
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