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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I have a issue where I start the bike gauges are ok. As soon as I hit breaks Front or Back it burns out the instrument panel fuse/ignition fuse and all the instrument panel goes dark. Bike stays running but will only turn on again I put a new fuse. Also the blinker light on instrument panel is stuck to on position. I bought the bike used. It shorted out while I was riding it. I am not sure what is going on but please guys any input I greatly appreciate it. Thank you guys.
I will provide pics soon and a video too.
 

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You have a short in one of the wires connecting the cluster to power. Time to start tracing them from the cluster back to power. It’s a tedious and no fun process. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You have a short in one of the wires connecting the cluster to power. Time to start tracing them from the cluster back to power. It’s a tedious and no fun process. Good luck.
Thanks for the information. So my question is where do I find the cluster? Also would the short not be in the brake wires or brake light from the cluster? Do you have any diagrams or pictures of the cluster and wiring. Thank you.
 

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Thanks for the information. So my question is where do I find the cluster? Also would the short not be in the brake wires or brake light from the cluster? Do you have any diagrams or pictures of the cluster and wiring. Thank you.
The cluster is a synonym for the speedometer/dash unit, its the thing that shows you how illegal you're going. lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The cluster is a synonym for the speedometer/dash unit, its the thing that shows you how illegal you're going. lol
Ok ty I have an update on bike. I unplugged tail light and everything. Turned it on and it still shorted the bike when using brakes. Does anyone have anything else to give me as far as a idea on what it might be. Could it be the rectifier? The only fuse that burns is the ignition fuse/cluster fuse. Could the rectifier be sending too much power? Thanks.
 

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No. No. No. Rectifier has exactly zero to do with your issue. Rectifier takes the AC your stator produces and changes it to DC. If it started to overcharge the 30A main fuse would blow immediately. It has no connection to your brakes.

Sounds like you have a short in the brake circuit. Unplug the front brake switch and see if that cures it. Unplug the rear brake switch and see if that cures it. In both cases brakes will still work normally, you just won't get rear brake light coming on. If one of those cures it you know where the problem is.

Cross your fingers that it's the rear brake as that's likely an easy and cheap fix. The front not so much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No. No. No. Rectifier has exactly zero to do with your issue. Rectifier takes the AC your stator produces and changes it to DC. If it started to overcharge the 30A main fuse would blow immediately. It has no connection to your brakes.

Sounds like you have a short in the brake circuit. Unplug the front brake switch and see if that cures it. Unplug the rear brake switch and see if that cures it. In both cases brakes will still work normally, you just won't get rear brake light coming on. If one of those cures it you know where the problem is.

Cross your fingers that it's the rear brake as that's likely an easy and cheap fix. The front not so much.
Ok thanks. Now can you please explain where the switches are located? It is my first Triumph.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Also update on bike guys. The left blinker is stuck on but not flashing. It's acting like it's a running
light. Another weird thing is if I don't use the rear brake the fuse doesn't burn. The very last questionable issue I checked the voltage on the battery and the voltage is continuously dropping after test riding. I assume my stator may not be charging. I did about a 10 minute test ride to see if voltage would shoot up but it went down constantly. Then I tried to start the bike and it would crank but not start. So battery got down to about 11.8v and no start.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Also update on bike guys. The left blinker is stuck on but not flashing. It's acting like it's a running
light. Another weird thing is if I don't use the rear brake the fuse doesn't burn. The very last questionable issue I checked the voltage on the battery and the voltage is continuously dropping after test riding. I assume my stator may not be charging. I did about a 10 minute test ride to see if voltage would shoot up but it went down constantly. Then I tried to start the bike and it would crank but not start. So battery got down to about 11.8v and no start.
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The battery not charging is a separate issue from the turn signal/fuse popping. It's easy to check:

Get the bike started (jump it with your car if necessary). Measure the voltage over the battery (meter set to measure DC voltage). At idle you need to be seeing 14 - 14.5v. Much less than that and your stator is fried. Much more than that and your Regulator is fried.

If the fuse doesn't pop when rear brake is not applied you've isolated your problem. Look at the back of the right rearset. There will be a switch attached with a spring coming out of it (pushing the brake pedal will stretch the spring and activate the switch). In the photo it's the black cylindrical thing with the wire coming from it. Note that the photo is from a Suzuki not a Triumph but they are all basically the same.

This wire will plug into your main harness in front of the battery (it can be hard to reach). If you're lucky the short is in the switch or plug and replacing this will fix your problem. You should be able to find one on eBay for $25 or so.

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Tey running it without the integrated tail and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The battery not charging is a separate issue from the turn signal/fuse popping. It's easy to check:

Get the bike started (jump it with your car if necessary). Measure the voltage over the battery (meter set to measure DC voltage). At idle you need to be seeing 14 - 14.5v. Much less than that and your stator is fried. Much more than that and your Regulator is fried.

If the fuse doesn't pop when rear brake is not applied you've isolated your problem. Look at the back of the right rearset. There will be a switch attached with a spring coming out of it (pushing the brake pedal will stretch the spring and activate the switch). In the photo it's the black cylindrical thing with the wire coming from it. Note that the photo is from a Suzuki not a Triumph but they are all basically the same.

This wire will plug into your main harness in front of the battery (it can be hard to reach). If you're lucky the short is in the switch or plug and replacing this will fix your problem. You should be able to find one on eBay for $25 or so.

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Ok great and the issue with the blinker being stuck on can be caused by this short?
 

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If it's an aftermarket blinker it can be any number of things, they often don't play nice with the other electronics (and amateurs tend to get creative with wiring them in :)

If it's the stock blinker it's likely the turn signal relay is stuck open. Replace the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If it's an aftermarket blinker it can be any number of things, they often don't play nice with the other electronics (and amateurs tend to get creative with wiring them in :)

If it's the stock blinker it's likely the turn signal relay is stuck open. Replace the relay.
I really appreciate your feedback buddy. Can you please tell me where the relay would be located?
 

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You should hunt down a service manual online. It will tell you where everything is and how to get at it. You can also go to ebay and type in a part name and it will usually come up with what it looks like.

You never said what bike you have. I'm assuming 12 or older street triple. Relays are behind the air box. Lift the tank and you'll see them. #5 in this graphic.

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok guys update I found the connectors for the stator to be melted together and shorted out and fixed that issue. Now when I use front break or back break the lights on the instrument cluster and headlights go dim a bit then it shorts the fuse again and no display on cluster. Leaving me with a working bike and stick blinkers and shorted electrical brake system. I thought maybe it was a switch but it seems to be something grounding. Has anyone had this issue or point me in the right direction. Could the blinker being stuck on cause these issues?
 
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