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429 Posts
DarkHorse's (almost) new Jet Black
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Few more excited new bike shots:
Dem curves...
Dem curves...
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38 Posts
Very nice bike!
I like your original black one too.
I like your original black one too.
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429 Posts
Thanks Duc.
The earlier one in this thread is actually my second. I've now had an 08, and 09 and now the 16. All in black, which surprises no-one!
I'm now 160km into the run-in commuter frustration. The intake just starts to howl at 5000rpm, so it's all I can do to remember to shift up instead of winding it out!
The earlier one in this thread is actually my second. I've now had an 08, and 09 and now the 16. All in black, which surprises no-one!
I'm now 160km into the run-in commuter frustration. The intake just starts to howl at 5000rpm, so it's all I can do to remember to shift up instead of winding it out!
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429 Posts
First non-commute ride into the hills. Can't wait to get past 5000rpm - a road I usually do in 1st-2nd I was doing in 3rd-4th. Still sounds good, but not in the same ball-park as 11,000+ through a slip-on.
Also can't wait for a double-bubble screen. The edge of the stock one cuts straight through the guages at the moment.
Also can't wait for a double-bubble screen. The edge of the stock one cuts straight through the guages at the moment.
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429 Posts
Murphy's 2nd Law of Motorcycling: Washing your new bike guarantees rain the next day.
...and a landmark - may look like a random number but that mileage signifies a new rev limit (8000rpm) and the final stage of the run-in process. Can. Not. Wait.
Went for a quick run up one of my favourite roads in Sydney yesterday. Starting to get a feel for the new girl:
...and a landmark - may look like a random number but that mileage signifies a new rev limit (8000rpm) and the final stage of the run-in process. Can. Not. Wait.
Went for a quick run up one of my favourite roads in Sydney yesterday. Starting to get a feel for the new girl:
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870 Posts
Coming from the other discussion about excessive middleweights and ultra focused superbikes makes me feel funny because I am compelled to yell at this bike's beauty and appeal. Boy is it desirable. Only thing that makes me feel somewhat OK is that I also have a 675 triple in my garage.
Happy and safe miles :laugh2:
Happy and safe miles :laugh2:
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429 Posts
Well since last update I have 1600km of run-in restrictions, so now I can wind it out properly. Haven't even had a chance to get it over 70km/h yet, let alone the 130ish that red-line in 1st would be... but still nice to know I can.
Busy day today. My Riders Discount order arrived a few days ago, but today was the first chance I had to do anything. Being effectively homeless and having everything, including my tools, spread between the Landcruiser, the place I am staying, storage, and work is getting pretty frustrating, but I made do with what I had:
Decided to start with the easy stuff because I had to have the bike rideable to get to work about 4pm. So, Zero Gravity dark smoke double-bubble screen:
CRG shorty brake and clutch levers:
TechSpec tank grips:
GBR bobbins and one cover. My little socket set didn't go down to 8mm, and some of the bolts on the other cases are quite deeply recessed so no chance of getting them with a spanner:
Didn't get the GBR sliders/pucks in the delivery, so will have to check and see if that was my oversight or theirs.
All went reasonably smoothly. Idled around the carpark and felt OK. Did a bit of tweaking with the levers but was confident enough to head to work on it. Thankfully I went around the block rather than straight down the main road, because 200m later the front brakes locked up. Solid. No slipping at all. Turns out the push rod for the Brembo radial master cylinder, which you have to transfer from the stock lever to the CRG is a bit fussy as far as exactly where it slots back in. A passing driver kindly helped me haul the bike to the kerb, and I bolted back to grab the tools required to disassemble the lever again, fiddle with the push rod, and get it back together again. I made it to work (late) but some adjustment is still required. I have a feeling the clutch is dragging too, as the throttle response felt different, and there was a lot of heat coming off the right side of the motor after just the 10km commute. Still, progress is progress:
Busy day today. My Riders Discount order arrived a few days ago, but today was the first chance I had to do anything. Being effectively homeless and having everything, including my tools, spread between the Landcruiser, the place I am staying, storage, and work is getting pretty frustrating, but I made do with what I had:
Decided to start with the easy stuff because I had to have the bike rideable to get to work about 4pm. So, Zero Gravity dark smoke double-bubble screen:
CRG shorty brake and clutch levers:
TechSpec tank grips:
GBR bobbins and one cover. My little socket set didn't go down to 8mm, and some of the bolts on the other cases are quite deeply recessed so no chance of getting them with a spanner:
Didn't get the GBR sliders/pucks in the delivery, so will have to check and see if that was my oversight or theirs.
All went reasonably smoothly. Idled around the carpark and felt OK. Did a bit of tweaking with the levers but was confident enough to head to work on it. Thankfully I went around the block rather than straight down the main road, because 200m later the front brakes locked up. Solid. No slipping at all. Turns out the push rod for the Brembo radial master cylinder, which you have to transfer from the stock lever to the CRG is a bit fussy as far as exactly where it slots back in. A passing driver kindly helped me haul the bike to the kerb, and I bolted back to grab the tools required to disassemble the lever again, fiddle with the push rod, and get it back together again. I made it to work (late) but some adjustment is still required. I have a feeling the clutch is dragging too, as the throttle response felt different, and there was a lot of heat coming off the right side of the motor after just the 10km commute. Still, progress is progress:
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7,846 Posts
The OE clutch lever has a little brass cylinder that goes in the pivot hole. You remembered to swap it or the CRG came with its own? I forgot it and the clutch wasn't releasing fully when I let go of the lever. The plates got really hot and started to slip after a session on track but I fixed it and no damage seems to have been done.
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429 Posts
We have a weiner! Thanks heaps MGFC, that's exactly what I'd neglected. I love this place.
Fixed now, and feels much better. Also adjusted the brake lever pushrod so there wasn't quite so much nothing travel before there was any feel. I like my levers close to the grips, but I could just about get it to touch before!
Those little wins were offset slightly by the annoyance that I went and bought a 3/8dr 8mm socket to do the GBR covers... and it's still too thick to reach down to the bolts! I'm going to have to steal a 1/4dr set from work to do it now...
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7,846 Posts
What did you just call me?
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I believe 'awesome' was the word between the lines...
Would you believe typo caused by gloved hands mashing keys in the dark...?
Nah, I'm just a cheeky shit. I do, genuinely, greatly appreciate the help. Bit pissed with myself that I didn't notice it myself, but that's what I get for rushing the 'simple' jobs.
Would you believe typo caused by gloved hands mashing keys in the dark...?
Nah, I'm just a cheeky shit. I do, genuinely, greatly appreciate the help. Bit pissed with myself that I didn't notice it myself, but that's what I get for rushing the 'simple' jobs.
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429 Posts
A bit more progress today. GBR engine covers on, with the right tools (anyone buying the GBR engine covers - you need either an extremely deep 8mm socket or a 1/4 drive 8mm socket. Anything else is too fat to get to the deeply recessed bolts.)
Also went shopping and bought a rearstand, chain cleaner, brush, lube, and some silicone cleaner. Gave the chain a clean and the tank and helmet a wipe-down.
Also went shopping and bought a rearstand, chain cleaner, brush, lube, and some silicone cleaner. Gave the chain a clean and the tank and helmet a wipe-down.
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429 Posts
Anyone still reading this corner of the forum?
8,000km in now, including three MotoDNA track days at SMSP, and an epic Sydney-Melbourne return trip taking all the fun roads over the mountains:
Contrast much:
Only real development that I can think of is that I've gone through the original front SuperCorsa, while there is still a reasonable amount of meat on the rear. Seems weird, but that's the way it went...
8,000km in now, including three MotoDNA track days at SMSP, and an epic Sydney-Melbourne return trip taking all the fun roads over the mountains:
Contrast much:
Only real development that I can think of is that I've gone through the original front SuperCorsa, while there is still a reasonable amount of meat on the rear. Seems weird, but that's the way it went...
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429 Posts
...and some gratuitous artiness:
Which reminds me, the other change was getting the suspension stiffened up a bit for the track - a couple of extra turns of preload on both ends, some more rebound dampening on the front and the forks pushed down through the clamps about 8mm.
Which reminds me, the other change was getting the suspension stiffened up a bit for the track - a couple of extra turns of preload on both ends, some more rebound dampening on the front and the forks pushed down through the clamps about 8mm.
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429 Posts
Some more track fun:
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429 Posts
...aaaaand the predictable result:
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429 Posts
Little update... gratuitous bling cleverly disguised as practical protection:
Looking into corresponding patches for the tank too if NJCustom can do them.
Otherwise just hanging for Monday and another day at the Creek.
Looking into corresponding patches for the tank too if NJCustom can do them.
Otherwise just hanging for Monday and another day at the Creek.
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429 Posts
More gratuitous bling, this time much better disguised as practical protection:
This is a Cox Racing radiator guard from the US. While it fits OK and will do the job, I am a little underwhelmed with the thought and quality that has gone into it, especially compared to the RadGuard I had on the last bike. The most notable thing is the mounting arrangement - the Radguard used the original top and bottom radiator mounting bolts, so it was bulletproof solid. This one has a lug for the bottom bolt, but only uses cable ties to go around the top mounting bolts. Given the lack of space available for fingers in and around that area this is actually no easier than getting a couple of bolts in and out. I'm sure it'll be fine, but I sort of think the company is using the 'Racing' part of it's name to shortcut on that last 10% of finish quality.
You can also just make out in the bottom corner there is a small foam pad between the guard and the radiator fins. I have a couple of issues with this: firstly, if the mesh frame was just made 10mm larger in each direction it would sit happily against the surround and not put pressure on the fins, and secondly, if you must, put a full strip of foam all the way around the perimeter from the factory instead of throwing in eight loose, tiny, crookedly cut pads for the user to fit. Otherwise there were a couple of minor quality things, like grinding marks visible under the anodising where they have smoothed off folds or burrs... just little stuff but enough to explain the price difference between this and a RadGuard.
Now of course I want something for in front of the headers too...
This is a Cox Racing radiator guard from the US. While it fits OK and will do the job, I am a little underwhelmed with the thought and quality that has gone into it, especially compared to the RadGuard I had on the last bike. The most notable thing is the mounting arrangement - the Radguard used the original top and bottom radiator mounting bolts, so it was bulletproof solid. This one has a lug for the bottom bolt, but only uses cable ties to go around the top mounting bolts. Given the lack of space available for fingers in and around that area this is actually no easier than getting a couple of bolts in and out. I'm sure it'll be fine, but I sort of think the company is using the 'Racing' part of it's name to shortcut on that last 10% of finish quality.
You can also just make out in the bottom corner there is a small foam pad between the guard and the radiator fins. I have a couple of issues with this: firstly, if the mesh frame was just made 10mm larger in each direction it would sit happily against the surround and not put pressure on the fins, and secondly, if you must, put a full strip of foam all the way around the perimeter from the factory instead of throwing in eight loose, tiny, crookedly cut pads for the user to fit. Otherwise there were a couple of minor quality things, like grinding marks visible under the anodising where they have smoothed off folds or burrs... just little stuff but enough to explain the price difference between this and a RadGuard.
Now of course I want something for in front of the headers too...
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429 Posts
This was, unbelievably, my first venture into the mysterious world beneath this bike's fairings. (I know, I've been slack...) I had hoped to get an oil change done today as well, but time and the weather conspired against that. I really need a shed.
Anyhoo, I had a couple of "What the actual FCUK Triumph???" moments... Firstly, there is a special place in hell for the person who invented these, where they will have endless amounts of them inserted into every orifice manually by the people who decide they are a good idea to spec on a bike:
I had a 50% success rate screwing these out, the rest just spun. There are eight (EIGHT!!!) of these holding the inner fairing panels onto the main bottom fairings. Not only are they a little awkward to get a screwdriver onto (hence the munting the one pictured received...) but the housings on the main panels that these go, even if you can get a hand/pliers in behind them, are almost without exception aligned so that you cannot get a grip on the fixing to engage the thread of the screw. If anyone knows of a suitable replacement for these I'm all ears. Thinking about the threaded clips that are used elsewhere for real bolts...?
Anyhoo, my second gripe at factory cost-cutting is these connectors:
This particular instance is the indicator, but I've seen them all over the place on bikes and cars. They are just crap. Depending on age often the only way to get them apart is to jam a flatbade screwdriver in and pry the sleeve over the lug, invariably damaging one or both in the process. Also - why two seperate connectors for a pair of wires that is only ever going to be plugged in together? There are much better quality options out there.
Anyway, sorry for the rant, just had to get that out of my system.
Now as for the weather deciding that exactly the moment that, working on the street, I have all the fairing removed and tools spread everywhere is the cue to rain...
Anyhoo, I had a couple of "What the actual FCUK Triumph???" moments... Firstly, there is a special place in hell for the person who invented these, where they will have endless amounts of them inserted into every orifice manually by the people who decide they are a good idea to spec on a bike:
I had a 50% success rate screwing these out, the rest just spun. There are eight (EIGHT!!!) of these holding the inner fairing panels onto the main bottom fairings. Not only are they a little awkward to get a screwdriver onto (hence the munting the one pictured received...) but the housings on the main panels that these go, even if you can get a hand/pliers in behind them, are almost without exception aligned so that you cannot get a grip on the fixing to engage the thread of the screw. If anyone knows of a suitable replacement for these I'm all ears. Thinking about the threaded clips that are used elsewhere for real bolts...?
Anyhoo, my second gripe at factory cost-cutting is these connectors:
This particular instance is the indicator, but I've seen them all over the place on bikes and cars. They are just crap. Depending on age often the only way to get them apart is to jam a flatbade screwdriver in and pry the sleeve over the lug, invariably damaging one or both in the process. Also - why two seperate connectors for a pair of wires that is only ever going to be plugged in together? There are much better quality options out there.
Anyway, sorry for the rant, just had to get that out of my system.
Now as for the weather deciding that exactly the moment that, working on the street, I have all the fairing removed and tools spread everywhere is the cue to rain...
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