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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey gang, just have a quick question about the Crank position Sensor. My '09 Striple will not turn over, just crank and crank. Battery lives on a tender, when disconnected I get an average of 12.9v. all lights, horn work. I think I hear all the electro gizmo noises when I turn the key on. When cranking over - the tach does not budge, it stays at 0. I think I recall reading this is a sure-fire sign of a bad CPS - correct?

Over the years, I have lost all patience trouble-shooting this sort of thing. The bike ran like a top 2 weeks ago. There is only a Honda dealership now to bail me out.
 

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Seems you're jumping to a conclusion that, while possible, is not likely.

Have you had the tank elevated? There's a small hose at back of the tank that can pull off. It's connected to a sensor and if it's not connected the bike won't start.

Next thing I'd look at given your symptoms is a fuel issue. Has the bike sat outside in the rain? That can result in water in the gas. Is the pump pumping out gas (just disconnect the fuel supply and cycle the bike on and off - catching the fuel in a jar).

Are you getting spark?

The only alternative to trouble shooting is paying someone else to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have not yet raised the tank, that's the next step. I pretty much can, and do all maintenance/repair on the Striple except for shyt at involves raising the tank, I never felt comfortable with that sort of crap.
Bike is kept in the garage and on a tender. It ran fine last time I used it, about 2 weeks ago.
 

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On this bike raising the tank is easy. Just the two bolts at the front of the frame and get a piece of lumber to support the raised tank.

At the rear of the tanks there's a small rectangular sensor that has a small hose connected to it at one end. If you haven't raised the tank it's unlikely to have fallen off but it would explain your issue.

With the tank raised you can also unplug the CPS sensor and check its resistance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
On this bike raising the tank is easy. Just the two bolts at the front of the frame and get a piece of lumber to support the raised tank.

At the rear of the tanks there's a small rectangular sensor that has a small hose connected to it at one end. If you haven't raised the tank it's unlikely to have fallen off but it would explain your issue.

With the tank raised you can also unplug the CPS sensor and check its resistance.
I've been under the tank on numerous occasions, I just hate diagnosing issues on this bike. Is there a picture of this sensor or layman's write-up on how to locate/test it?
 

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You sound lazy. No-one is going to spoon feed you the info. There are plenty of threads on the subjects as well as pictures of parts. Try using the search.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You sound lazy. No-one is going to spoon feed you the info. There are plenty of threads on the subjects as well as pictures of parts. Try using the search.
Dude, I've done more work/maintenance on this bike than most folks here will ever do (currently have over 54,000 miles on it). I've replaced the Stator, 3 R/R's, rebuilt/installed D675 forks, brake calipers, chains, ect. I've got a No-Mar tire changer and go through tires like a cop goes through donuts. The bike is due for state registration next month and before I can do that it has to pass inspection. Right now, I don't have much time to chase down one of Triumph's famous mysterious electrical gremlins (of which I am very aware of since buying this bike in 2008, been there many times). I was hoping the right person would come along and know what the issue was like we used to do on this forum. Lazy?..... perhaps you could say that since also having two Kawasaki's, one Suzuki and one Yamaha also in the garage that NEVER gave me one single problem have spoiled me into not having to sort through hidden or almost impossible-to-reach wiring connectors. Hell.... you've probably even bought 675net calendars from me. :confused:
 

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I'm currently dealing with the same issue on my '11 Daytona. Ran it for 400 miles last week, and when I pulled it out of the garage on Monday morning, it would turn over but not start. I spent the day on Monday diagnosing what the problem would be, and have also deemed it to be a CPS issue, after TuneECU showed no error codes and there was no check engine light. I also checked for spark, and the lack of spark was a pretty good indicator it was an electrical issue.

The CPS plug is the white plug under the tank. Unplug it, put a multimeter in it, and you should get 200-270 ohm reading. Anything less and it's likely your issue. Mine was at 130 ohm, and so I ordered a replacement CPS from Ricks. Once it arrives, along with a new stator gasket, I'll be able to replace it and get it running again. The CPS sensor itself is in the stator case I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have not had any time at all to dig into this, but hope to get to it on Saturday. Thanks for the plug description. I've seen a couple photos of under the tank on this forum but have not seen anything that was clear. a lot of these folks are d675 owners and they tend to underestimate just how cramped the Street Triple wiring is - Triumph went to great lengths to hide all wiring from visible sight to on-lookers, lol. So it's a rats nest once you have the tank raised.

I have, or at least had, a spare Ricks Stator I bought about 8 years ago. I'm hoping it has a CPS sensor on it that I can rob if necessary. Then again, I did not know Ricks sold just the CPS sensor, I might go that route instead. This is all just speculation until I just get into it, maybe I'll get lucky and it'll be something stupid.
 

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In terms of diagnosing, your obvious first step would be to plug it into TuneECU if you have it and check for error codes - though it's worth noting that I didn't receive any error codes on my particular problem. I went through then and diagnosed everything, from easiest to hardest. First, check that I had plenty of fuel and no issues on that front, then just kept listening to make sure that it sounded like the fuel pump was still functioning. I then charged the battery to make sure I was getting enough power, and I then pulled the tank and started digging further. The obvious answer came with the ohm reading of the plug, but I also noticed that when I pulled the ignition coils and checked for spark, I wasn't getting anything, which generally indicated it was an electrical issue and not a fuel issue. From there, it seemed obvious that it had to be a bad sensor.

Hope that helps!

Oh, and the Rick's CPS is located here - Trigger Coil: 200 OHM 21_502

Though I'm certain you have to remove the stator case, so it would be wise if you also buy a gasket to replace aswell.
 

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If you already have a stator, then you already have a new cps as they're generally sold together.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If I'm interpreting this correctly, this is 2.8 million ohms, correct? If so, it's almost certainly a bad CPS from what I've been able to find on this forum.

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All fuses were good, fuel spit out of the connector when disconnected. Had about a gallon of fresh fuel in the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Got time to pull the cover and look at the Stator - typical chocolate but not charring or burnt-looking. The three Stator leads all test out @ 0.7Ω. I am feeling the Stator (it's an OEM replacement from Triumph) is OK, just need to replace the CPS. Anyone feel otherwise before I pull the trigger on a CPS?

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Tire Wheel Automotive tire Locking hubs Vehicle brake


Speaking of - I was thinking about the Ricks unit:

Is this a good unit?
 

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Yes, the coil from Rick's is the most common replacement. I just installed one on my bike last week and it's running great again. One thing to note though, is the Ricks one doesn't come with a plug, so you'll need to pull the plug from the old cable. After the installation, my bike was really jerky at around 4000rpm, and it was because I flipped the cables. So take that as a note if the same happens to you (I spent 6 hours diagnosing everything until I tried switching the cables...so hopefully my time loss is your benefit).
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
....and it was because I flipped the cables. So take that as a note if the same happens to you (I spent 6 hours diagnosing everything until I tried switching the cables...so hopefully my time loss is your benefit).
Thanks for the quick reply! (y)

Flipped? You mean switch polarity? I didn't think there was a polarity with the CPS, just continuity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Was the CPS. I ordered a replacement CPS unit from Ricks. It measured 199ohms on my meter before installation. Slapped a new gasket on, buttoned everything back up and she fired right up. (y)
 
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