Triumph 675 Forums banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
202 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Some of you may have already seen my picture from the group buy thread, but I fell in love with the CW GP pipe for the Street Triple and had to have it. Im not going to bore you guys with a full write up since the CW instructions are pretty good. If you are going to mount this on a Daytona, there will need to be some modifications done.

1) The pipe has two hangers, one underneath the frame and another that mounts to the rearset. The mount underneath the frame is shared between the Daytona and the STriple. The rearsets however are not. I made a simple bracket out of a sheet of aluminum.

I first got the bolt hole measurements on a large piece of flat stock that I bent at a 90* angle.



A 5/8" bit is perfect for the lower hole (the one that has a rubber bushing on it). First, get the bolt hole drilled for the lower hole, installed the bushing, then get the rearset bolt hole drilled. That way you get the proper space for the bushing.

Once I had the holes in the proper spot, I cut out the bracket. It took me about 20 minutes total to build this bracket. Its not the prettiest but it works.



2) The next step could be a deal breaker for most. On the Daytona, the body work gets in the way so trimming is required. I was sweating bullets on this portion. Remember, cut in small increments. You can keep removing material, you cant add it back on (easily).



I have heat tape on the inside of the body work so it should reflect most of the heat from the pipe. I plan on getting some touch up paint for the edges.

Otherwise, the install went pretty smoothly. I ended up removing the header completely from the bike to cut the rear bend off (sorry, no pics), but you should be able to do it on the bike. Be sure to grind the rear weld on the catalytic converter pretty well otherwise the pipe wont be able to slip over it. I used an angle grinder for that one.

For the Daytona, you also need to figure out a license plate mount. I decided to make one out of thin gauge aluminum and enclosed most of the undertail.





Its made out of three pieces, the top/rear and two sides. I riveted them together then used JB Weld putty on the seams in hopes that I could smooth it out well enough (didnt work as planned). I also flushed in an LED license plate light and mounted the turn signals to the rear cowl. Im not 100% happy with the undertail so Ill most likely be making another out of fiberglass later this year. I used black Plasti-Dip paint on it. And yes, I did scratch the hell out of my subframe - I might be getting that powdercoated anyway.

All in all, the finished product looks something like this.



The pipe is pretty loud, but it sounds beautiful. If it werent so windy today I would have taken a video of it. CW is in the process of making a baffle for it, which I am looking forward to.

This pipe removes about 15lbs from the bike. I haven't taken it out yet as its not legal at the moment, but from the looks of it, my foot does not contact the pipe at any time.

Big thanks to MacBandit for starting the group buy and being the guinea pig. :thumbup:

Any questions/picture requests, feel free to ask.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
277 Posts
Great work on setting up this step by step. I like your undertail, might have to see if I can copy that design when my pipe shows up. Thanks again for great write up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
946 Posts
The rear of the bike looks quite ridiculous now i think with that big gaping void... but whatever makes you happy! It could well look better in person.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
202 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thats why I want to redo it in fiberglass. Hopefully make it look somewhat OEM.

From the side view I think it looks great. Im not 100% happy looking at it from the rear, but it could have been worse.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,176 Posts
The rear of the bike looks quite ridiculous now i think with that big gaping void... but whatever makes you happy! It could well look better in person.
The gap looks much better in person. It also looks better without the passenger pegs, but that's not always an option.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
202 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The gap looks much better in person. It also looks better without the passenger pegs, but that's not always an option.
Ill be taking mine off, I couldnt break the bolts loose on them for some reason and didnt feel like firing up the air compressor.

But yes, it does look better without the rear pegs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,293 Posts
Im not sold on the side exit exhaust for a track bike. One low side and that pricey can is gonna be trashed.

Looks good on the Daytona though.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,901 Posts
Well they aren't expensive but I know what you mean. I have a spare now I've kept just for that situation. That said you would have to go down on that side or tumble in which case the bike would have far greater issues. Also I can buy 3 of these for the price of most high systems. Not to mention removing 15lbs from high up on the bike is supremely noticeable in how well the bike changes directions now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
473 Posts
Well they aren't expensive but I know what you mean. I have a spare now I've kept just for that situation. That said you would have to go down on that side or tumble in which case the bike would have far greater issues. Also I can buy 3 of these for the price of most high systems. Not to mention removing 15lbs from high up on the bike is supremely noticeable in how well the bike changes directions now.
Do you think there is any way to get the exhaust more "in" to avoid damage in a crash? :computer:
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,901 Posts
Not really. Any side pipe is going to have this issue. Single muffler undertail is more protected but still get hit occasionally. The only muffler that's pretty safe from damage is the under engine ones like the true GP mufflers. The issue is there isn't room on our bikes to put one there properly.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top