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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

Just wondering if I can use Castrol Edge 10w60 oil in a Daytona 675. It is fully synthetic, is API SM/CF and ACEA A3/B3/B4.

I'm not quite sure if it is suitable. Reason I ask is I have about 7 litres laying around from when I last had a petrol car a couple of years back.

Cheers,
Ty

EDIT: Note, I intend to change the oil & filter every 5,000km if this matters.
 

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Non-motorcycle oil's usually contain friction modifier's which sometimes dont agree with a wet clutch. Use at your discretion.
 

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Non-motorcycle oil's usually contain friction modifier's which sometimes dont agree with a wet clutch. Use at your discretion.
Definitely use at your discretion.

That said, I've been using Caltex Delo 400 truck oil in my D675 and my SV for quite awhile now, road and track. Got a tip on that from [FLUX].

No problems at all, and it costs $100 for 20 litres.

O.B
 

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For engines that use engine oil in the tranny (non-Ducati) you need to ensure that the oil is Jaso-Ma certified. FWIW usually MC specific and some Diesel Oil producst have this cert, most car oils do not. Additional info stolen from the web below. I've used Rotella T Full Synth for over 5 years in everything (car/truck/bikes) I own with no issues...

One element of the JASO-MA standard is a friction test designed to determine suitability for wet clutch usage. An oil that meets JASO-MA is considered appropriate for wet clutch operations. Oils marketed as motorcycle-specific will carry the JASO-MA label. Other oils, such as Shell
heavy duty engine oil (HDEO) carry the JASO-MA certification.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ahh I was wondering why it did not mention JASO MA certification. I know about friction modifiers but I couldn't find any mention of them in relation to this specific oil.

I guess I will just go and buy myself some Mobil or Castrol 4T oil then.

Thanks guys!
 

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I'd be more concerned about a 60 grade oil. I wouldn't have thought you'd want to use anything heavier than a 50 even in a hot area.

Rob
 

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Not exactly... 10w is the cold weight, 60 is the resistance to thinning out at high temperature. 10w60 is actually a superior grade to 10w50 or 10w40.
 

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Definitely use at your discretion.

That said, I've been using Caltex Delo 400 truck oil in my D675 and my SV for quite awhile now, road and track. Got a tip on that from [FLUX].

No problems at all, and it costs $100 for 20 litres.

O.B
Really? :hmm: I've been using Amsoil for quite a while now. How often do you change it with that?
 

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Not exactly... 10w is the cold weight, 60 is the resistance to thinning out at high temperature. 10w60 is actually a superior grade to 10w50 or 10w40.
Again, not exactly.

It behaves like a 10W (W for winter grade), which is a thin oil at low temperatures.

At high temperatures it behaves like a 60 grade oil.

60 isn't superior, just more viscous. Too viscous for a motorcycle engine. Bikes, or at least modern bikes since the 70s, have some rather narrow galleries and too thick an oil doesn't get around the engine properly. Older bikes used to use a 50 weight under most conditions, but even that's considered too heavy for hot weather now, which is why most manufacturers recommend a 40 grade oil.

The first part of the weight descriptor, 10W in this case, can be looked more flexibly - a 5 or 5W makes more sense in a cold winter as it gets around the engine better at start up. In a really hot area a 20W weight can be better - usually teamed up as a 20W-50.

A 60 weight (hot) is more a gearbox oil than an engine oil.

Rob
 

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this should answer your questions about oil..... ive been using rotella full synthetic for over 30k in my 07 and at least 25k in my 06 and have had zero issues with anything oil related.
:thumbup:
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
 

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this should answer your questions about oil..... ive been using rotella full synthetic for over 30k in my 07 and at least 25k in my 06 and have had zero issues with anything oil related.
:thumbup:
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
Epic quote from that publication...:laugh:

"If you're riding your bike in -40 degrees, I want a picture just before you die."
This guy is freaking hilarious. I have seen this site before but never really perused it. Here's another:

If you're east of the Mississippi and it starts to rain, pull over at the nearest cover. It will pass in half an hour. If you're west of the Rockies and it starts to rain, you have a big problem: it's going to rain for the next five days. If you're in Ohio, you will get rained on. If you're in Wyoming or Montana, watch out for snow. Maybe in July and August you can slack off just a little. Not in June or September though. If you're going to cross Texas, bring a book, lock your throttle, and lock your handlebars. You only need to look up at the highway about once an hour. If you're in Nebraska and the wind stops or you see a tree, pull over immediately and take a nap. You're having road hallucinations.
:rofl:

Oh, and be very careful in Pittsburgh - even the locals get quite thoroughly lost if they take a wrong turn. It's hopeless for us: you'll be able to see exactly where you want to go, but it will be on the other side of an unpronounceable river, and the nearest bridge will be six miles away. One day the Steelers will win a game because some west coast team couldn't find the way to the stadium in time.
 
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