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That is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you Triumph Race Support! I will be doing this pretty soon. I am sending you a pm regarding the captive spacers also.


For the front, if you just pivot it all out of the way, is there enough clearance to be able to get the wheel on and off still?
 

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I know this is a necro bump here, but I'll bet this thread gets a fair amount of search hits.

Just followed the guidelines (generally...) from TRS and did my captive rear caliper. I've attached a few pics with my work. Few things that I learned:

1) I used 10-32 machine screws. This is the biggest I would go, and if I did it over again I might use 8-32 to get a smaller head. Then again, being more accurate with your drilling goes a long way!

2) I used 1.25in lengths, after trying several. Might be able to get 1.5in if you cut the threads in the brake deeper, but this worked fine.

3) My placement was a bit off. I had a bit more room on the right than I thought I had. Needed to slightly dremel the head so it didn't interfere with the axle.

4) As mentioned in the instructions, you can't torque these things all the way down. With somewhat tight tolerances of the axle going through everything, it needs a "bit" of play. Remember, these bolts only hold the bracket in place when the wheel is off.

5) I did my best to take my time to line up the holes in the axle blocks to the brake caliper, but was still a tiny bit off. That can equate to stripping threads. A round chainsaw file to the axle block gave me a bit more tolerance.

6) Used cobalt bits and a 3/8 HSS countersink bit for the heads. Fits the machine screw head pretty well.

Not perfect, but will do the job!
 

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Nice work mpusch! Yeah, not terribly complex; helps a ton with rear tire changes. Topic also came up in this thread; might be some add'l info there.

Regarding the fit & alignment: you could use a 20mm diameter plug (~50mm long) to align the bracket and block and drill them together as a single unit.
 

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Nice work mpusch! Yeah, not terribly complex; helps a ton with rear tire changes. Topic also came up in this thread; might be some add'l info there.

Regarding the fit & alignment: you could use a 20mm diameter plug (~50mm long) to align the bracket and block and drill them together as a single unit.
Hmm, I didn't see that thread, thanks.

Good idea, would have helped for the final drilling I think. I ended up just pulling the axle out and putting it in from the other side. The issue is that there is a bit of play and I couldn't really get clamps to fit in right, so I did my best to hold it firm. After drilling the holes through the axle blocks, I just pushed a bit further with the bit to create a reference point on the bracket.
 
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