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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi
2014 Daytona 675R

In the process of replacing cam chain and tensioner guides (one of the plastic guides broke)

Everything was going smoothly so far until I tried to reinstall the camshafts and ladder

Following manual to the letter and using all the special tools

With cylinder 1 at TDC, marks on primary gear and crank case aligned, timing pin inserted.
I refitted the camshafts to the head with the alignment marks pointing inward. With that both the exhaust and inlet cams on cylinder 1 (left cylinder when looking towards the front of the bike) are pointing inwards toward each other.
Trying to instep the timing plate but the intake camshaft seems to be riding up on the left side. I can’t insert the timing plate without the intake camshaft popping up about 2 mm on that side. Got them in and tightened the camshaft ladder but things got tight and it snapped and broke the end of the journal .

Trying to align the camshaft to the head and it’s always popping up somewhere and not flat.






I can still use the camshaft but why is this not aligning properly??


More info:
The cam sprockets are loose and the timing chain tensioner is out so no tension in chain.
The manual says to install the tensioner later.


Please help any ideas??


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I replied to this, but for some reason the the post didn't show up...weird.
Anyhow, I remember another member here breaking their camshaft the exact same way and successfully using it with the broken lobe. The key to that statement is 'remember' which means I may very likely be wrong (search this site for it).
I've never had this problem on either my gen 1 or 2 bikes, but admittedly have not done it on a gen 3. When reinstalling the ladder are you tightening the bolts in steps or straight to torque for each bolt? Every time I've done this I only tighten each bolt a little in sequence until torque is reached. 720* per bolt in sequence, then start the sequence again, and again, and again until torque is reached.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I replied to this, but for some reason the the post didn't show up...weird.
Anyhow, I remember another member here breaking their camshaft the exact same way and successfully using it with the broken lobe. The key to that statement is 'remember' which means I may very likely be wrong (search this site for it).
I've never had this problem on either my gen 1 or 2 bikes, but admittedly have not done it on a gen 3. When reinstalling the ladder are you tightening the bolts in steps or straight to torque for each bolt? Every time I've done this I only tighten each bolt a little in sequence until torque is reached. 720* per bolt in sequence, then start the sequence again, and again, and again until torque is reached.
Yes I am tightening in sequence exactly as described in the manual.

Timing plate in
Cylinder 1 at TDC
Bolts in sequence first round at 5Nm then same sequence at 10Nm.

What I’ve noticed is that when I first start tightening the bolts the camshaft are not sitting flush with the cylinder head at the level of on cylinder 1 (let side, where the timing plate is, that’s where it broke). Here the cam lobes on the exhaust and intake camshafts are pointing inwards but seem to want to compress the valves SLIGHTLY for the camshaft to sit (bolts number 13, 14, 15, 16 on the pic below).
During tightening I was waiting for that squeeze to happen when I heard the horrific snap.

To be noted the sequence described in the manual starts at the opposite side of the head, that is, it says to start tightening the bolts over cylinder 3 where the cams are sitting nice and flush.




So I think my mistake was following the manual without realizing that I should probably start tightening a bit on the side of cylinder 1 until the valve buckets start giving the cams a little room and then continue as described.

I’m worried about the timing plate needing to carry all that stress from the cams wanting to turn up and away from each other during the tightening.


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Anyhow, I remember another member here breaking their camshaft the exact same way and successfully using it with the broken lobe.
I’d be more than happy to reuse it since only the part needed to set the timing broke. The slot where the timing plate was inserted.
It is not a contact part and is not involved in the. Mechanics.
If someone has a way to set accurate timing without using the timing plate that would save me 450$. I’m planning to order a new intake camshaft otherwise.

These are the slots for the timing plate.




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I would just put the ladder back without the timing plate. Try to keep the shafts oriented as close to where they're supposed to be and slowly tighten away. Or, orient the shafts and put the timing chain on just the shaft cogs, this will keep them more or less oriented while installing the ladder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok problem solved. I got a brand new OEM camshaft and was able to install it.

It was a mixture of inexperience on my part and the omission of a very important step in the triumph manual. They should really amend that.

After a 400$ mistake I have become an expert lol I guess that’s how you learn.

The trick is to start tightening down the bolts in the left hand side of the cam plate first. With cylinder 1 locked in TDC, the timing plate in position and the cam sprockets loose, this will gradually push in the valve buckets on cylinder 1. Only slightly so, but just enough to allow the camshafts to sit evenly across all valve banks while the timing plate holds the alignment in position.
Once the cam plate is sitting evenly on the cylinder head, you can proceed with the sequence described in the manual.


Camshafts and plate in!



I hope this helps.
Finally out of the woods.


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