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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Yes get it all lined up as best you can , unbolt hydro tensioner, remove old chain, drop down new chain line up marks Top and bottom, bolt down cam ladder in proper order follow service manual, apply tension with manual tensioner til taught back off a turn.

Turn motor 2-3 times, make sure everything lines up still, bottom mark and cams as duc said, don't want any collision if you feel any resistance stop don't force it, re-adjust

The manual tensioner will keep you from jumping a tooth and keep the chain from grinding on the inside of the engine casing.

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Will do thank you guys so much for the help
Also, b4 I took it apart the cams would rotate then go fast and fall in place for clearance measurement, when I put it back on to check new clearances the cams would not just fall into place like before but was tough and would’ve had to eyeball the lobes straight up and down, is it possible that the hydro tensioner could be making the chain too tight?
I have a new chain and manual tensioner on the way.
 

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Will do thank you guys so much for the help
Also, b4 I took it apart the cams would rotate then go fast and fall in place for clearance measurement, when I put it back on to check new clearances the cams would not just fall into place like before but was tough and would’ve had to eyeball the lobes straight up and down, is it possible that the hydro tensioner could be making the chain too tight?
I have a new chain and manual tensioner on the way.
No the hydro tensioner would be looser than the manual tensioner.

When you measure clearances , just make sure lobe is 90 or 180 to the bucket ( you want the lobe off the bucket) I bought a spare set off buckets from a wrecked bike on eBay just in case I needed different shim buckets, luckily I was able to just swap around buckets with my original set to be in "Go Zone"

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
No the hydro tensioner would be looser than the manual tensioner.

When you measure clearances , just make sure lobe is 90 or 180 to the bucket ( you want the lobe off the bucket) I bought a spare set off buckets from a wrecked bike on eBay just in case I needed different shim buckets, luckily I was able to just swap around buckets with my original set to be in "Go Zone"

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Alright, my main concern was how the lobes at first would fall into place at 180 but after I got the ladder back on they no longer just glide in but instead I have to rotate it to 180
Sorry for any confusion I’m just not sure how to type out what I mean
 

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As long as there isn't any grinding/binding and you bolted down the cam ladder in the proper sequence (so it doesn't crack) then you should be good.

You could unbolt cam ladder and try again to be sure, I used some assembly grease on lobes and ladder lobe insets when I reassembled, I can't remember what brand I used I'm sure it's in one of the old posts.

After you get it all lined up and tensioned up, rotate the motor multiple times to make sure you are still lined up (Crank dot + Cam lines) and watch the chain for any loose spots on tension, it should be consistent all the way round.

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
As long as there isn't any grinding/binding and you bolted down the cam ladder in the proper sequence (so it doesn't crack) then you should be good.

You could unbolt cam ladder and try again to be sure, I used some assembly grease on lobes and ladder lobe insets when I reassembled, I can't remember what brand I used I'm sure it's in one of the old posts.

After you get it all lined up and tensioned up, rotate the motor multiple times to make sure you are still lined up (Crank dot + Cam lines) and watch the chain for any loose spots on tension, it should be consistent all the way round.

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Alright thank you so much that eases my paranoia I don’t hear no valve kiss piston so that’s a plus, I’ll get it situated tommorow thank you
 

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The cam lobes are oriented in different directions which means some lobes will have a lot of pressure on them from the valve springs when oriented 180* from the head, while others will have virtually no pressure and will basically pop into place.
 
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
The cam lobes are oriented in different directions which means some lobes will have a lot of pressure on them from the valve springs when oriented 180* from the head, while others will have virtually no pressure and will basically pop into place.
Thank you! Got it all figured out everything back together timing all good started it up and perfect idle this time however I appeared to be leaking oil but I believe it was residual from fillup/crank cover being off, checked cam cover and gasket and saw no evidence and crank cover and new gasket were also not the culprit. I’m convinced it just has to be residual but it did seem like a little too much oil to be residual and there was oil on the left side. I saw on other posts that the cam cover gasket is usually the culprit so I’ll triple and quadruple check tomorrow.
 
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