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2010 Triumph Daytona 675 SE
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m doing my valve clearances on my 2010 d675 and have noticed that my cams seem to be in the wrong spot I worry that the last owner put them in wrong and now the cams are fu****??

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Try using the search. There are a few threads on the subject. Does the bike run properly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Try using the search. There are a few threads on the subject. Does the bike run properly?
I’ll keep searching but yeah it was running with no problem before I took it apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You don't need to hope. It WILL be fine.
One more question, should I expect the idle to be strange until the ecu figures itself out from having 6 different shims on the exhaust?
Got it all together no issue and first start up bike was idling rough at 500rpm but after a minute got back up to a good idle at around 1500-2000.
Also after it warmed up I gave a little rev and it dropped to 500 then back up, knowing my luck I suspect I screwed up the timing.
Thanks for the help in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
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Reset the adaptions using TuneECU or let it idle without touching the throttle until the fan kicks in.
Reset the adaptions using TuneECU or let it idle without touching the throttle until the fan kicks in.
Again so sorry for all the questions but i just get to paranoid. When I had first taken it apart the camshaft lines were lined up, but the crankshaft dot was nowhere to be found. I saw on other forums that this could mean a stretched cam chain? With the dot lined up, the cam lines are all whack.
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Also waiting on a response on different thread of a guy saying that the cyl #1 intake bucket will be compressed very slightly when the cams are lined up correctly and everything tensioned and torqued down?
Sorry for being a noob just want to make sure I break my baby.
Tysm
 

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From the photo it really does look like both your intake and exhaust camshafts are off by a tooth. Your chain probably has stretched enough so when the markings on the cams line up, the crank is off by half a tooth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
View attachment 261451
Reset the adaptions using TuneECU or let it idle without touching the throttle until the fan kicks in.
Reset the adaptions using TuneECU or let it idle without touching the throttle until the fan kicks in.
Again so sorry for all the questions but i just get to paranoid. When I had first taken it apart the camshaft lines were lined up, but the crankshaft dot was nowhere to be found. I saw on other forums that this could mean a stretched cam chain? With the dot lined up, the cam lines are all whack. View attachment 261451
View attachment 261452
Also waiting on a response on different thread of a guy saying that the cyl #1 intake bucket will be compressed very slightly when the cams are lined up correctly and everything tensioned and torqued down?
From the photo it really does look like both your intake and exhaust camshafts are off by a tooth. Your chain probably has stretched enough so when the markings on the cams line up, the crank is off by half a tooth.
darn yeah, the bike is just below 12k hence why I’m here in the first place. On the other thread someone said half a tooth wasn’t a big deal?
 

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I would adjust it so the marks line up, but ..... I know what I'm doing, and leaving it would just bug me. If you're unsure of your skills and the bike runs, leave it alone. There are very few circumstances worse than breaking something in an attempt to make them better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I would adjust it so the marks line up, but ..... I know what I'm doing, and leaving it would just bug me. If you're unsure of your skills and the bike runs, leave it alone. There are very few circumstances worse than breaking something in an attempt to make them better.
Yeah, I get that. I was confident doing this just didn’t expect any hiccups. I’m just getting too paranoid about ruining it. I’ll try that though thank you.
 

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Are you sure Timing chain isn't stretched too much? Also get manual chain tensioner, the hydraulic one is no good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Are you sure Timing chain isn't stretched too much? Also get manual chain tensioner, the hydraulic one is no good.
I have to assume it is as I bought the bike from the original owner and he told me that the cams were never messed with. and I have all the service records and shows nothing of the valves. so this is the first time it’s been apart
 

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Ok I would order a new timing chain, mine was stretched when I did my first service. Get if a manual timing chain tensioner if you hadn't already.

Also check your valve clearances before you unbolt the cam ladder, you may get lucky and only have to swap buckets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok I would order a new timing chain, mine was stretched when I did my first service. Get if a manual timing chain tensioner if you hadn't already.

Also check your valve clearances before you unbolt the cam ladder, you may get lucky and only have to swap buckets.
Yeah I checked the clearances b4 disassembly and had to do all my exhaust shims which I switched out. I’ll order manual tensioner today most likely and look into a chain.
When installing a new chain would I just line everything up as it should be and go from there?
 

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Yeah I checked the clearances b4 disassembly and had to do all my exhaust shims which I switched out. I’ll order manual tensioner today most likely and look into a chain.
When installing a new chain would I just line everything up as it should be and go from there?
Yes get it all lined up as best you can , unbolt hydro tensioner, remove old chain, drop down new chain line up marks Top and bottom, bolt down cam ladder in proper order follow service manual, apply tension with manual tensioner til taught back off a turn.

Turn motor 2-3 times, make sure everything lines up still, bottom mark and cams as duc said, don't want any collision if you feel any resistance stop don't force it, re-adjust

The manual tensioner will keep you from jumping a tooth and keep the chain from grinding on the inside of the engine casing.

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