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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I just bought an 09 daytona that the PO had laid down and wedged into a guard rail, 90% cosmetic scratches with a tank dent, mirrors scuffed, blinkers gone, rear brake lever snapped off and the front fairing loosened up.

I'm not worried about much, easy fixes except i dont know whats up with the front fairing, it has the air intake tube(?) attaching to the airbox(?) area with 4 small bolts and the top two are spinning freely, which puts a whole lot of weight on the bottom two, the fairing seems to be pretty dependent on that connection to support its weight which is now opening up at the top and putting the weight on the bottom two bolts there.

Anyway im wondering if anyone has come across this, im thinking instead of taking the whole fairing apart and replacing stuff in there im wanting to put a metal strap through both pieces so it basically replaces the bolts on the top there. i'm thinking that should hold it together..

i think its at #14 here

http://www.bikebandit.com/2009-triumph-daytona-675/o/m18733#sch631224

but im not sure, ill try to get a pic tonight.
 

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Would like to see the picture before I give off any inaccurate input. Even a video maybe.

I wonder if those holes are stripped or something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well i think the connectors that the bolts went through on the fairing portion of the connection are broken, the top of the connection has a gap and i can lift the fairing up and down to open/close the gap there. the bolts are in but spinning freely. im guessing the impact might have broken them loose when the fairing hit the ground.
 

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the stock air box snorkal is weak IMO and to make it even worse the two 'spikes' that lead into the front fairing make it worse

if there just free spinning you are most likely looking at exactly what you think you got wrong to start.

check the 'spikes' and recieving area by the light fixture

check the snorkal points

an easy fix would be either to get a larger screw/bolt or some self locking well nuts there or jb weld/ glue some nuts there
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
There are is a company that makes a bracket that wraps around the intake and frame where it mounts. I did a "DIY how to" with a bracket I fabricated at home. This is what squiding will do for ya. - Triumph675.Net Forums hope this helps.
nice, looks like the same thing that has happened to me, the two on top are broken and its separating at that foam joint there.

I cant really tell exactly whats going on there from the pics but im thinking i can just drill through both parts, put a bolt all the way through on both ends with something attaching them. like in the pic.
 

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No it wont work the tube will break again at the newly drilled holes in it. It would also still shake. What I did was make a bracket that wraps around the lip clamping it, spreading out the strain and also stabilize it in all directions. The trick is when you drill the holes In the bracket at the point it bolts to the frame is it have to be dead on or better a millimeter or two short so you have to put pressure against it to make the while line up it ensure a snug fit. Run thread rod through one side all the way through that way you don't have to worry about sucking the nut down the intake I'd it ever was to come loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No it wont work the tube will break again at the newly drilled holes in it. It would also still shake. What I did was make a bracket that wraps around the lip clamping it, spreading out the strain and also stabilize it in all directions. The trick is when you drill the holes In the bracket at the point it bolts to the frame is it have to be dead on or better a millimeter or two short so you have to put pressure against it to make the while line up it ensure a snug fit. Run thread rod through one side all the way through that way you don't have to worry about sucking the nut down the intake I'd it ever was to come loose.
hmmm what about a heavy duty hose clamp looped through them near the same points as shown? I could just tighten that as much as i needed to get any vibration out of it then just glue in the screw if i was worried it would come out. seems like that would be better for shearing load and at least as strong as the old crappy plastic connection that was there originally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ok i finally got some time to tear this apart. only took a couple minutes actually, alot easier than i expected..

anyway, all of the joints were broken, it was being supported only by the bottom lip of the intake tube. very bad, could have slipped out and broken the side plastics off easily if it had been under any kind of load.

You can see in the pics kinda whats going on, the plastic intake tube has padeye's sticking in to line up with the bolt holes in the frame, and the bolts just screw into those padeyes where that metal piece is. Those padeyes broke off and probably got vacuumed into the air filter or something, dunno i havent checked yet.

So I was thinking about running a bolt all the way through and doing something similar to your rig but using some different hardware.. gonna head to the store in a bit and pick some things up to see what i can do with it. Seems like a shabby design on such a load bearing point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
man i cant get this to work.. nothing seems to be tight enough to stop it from bouncing up and down. galvanized wire was even less effective.

im thinking im gonna have to make an entire bracket to fit around the end of the tube first, then just screw that into the holes in the frame.. i really just need a damn welder to do this right. It sucks even more that the connection has to be removable, who the hell thought it was a good idea to have the air intake support the fairing.

*edit
hmm, tomorrow im going to look at putting 4 new plates on the inside intake tube portion to replace the broken plastic ones. I can just screw them into the outside of the tube. cant do anything extravagant on the outside, the forks almost touch the tube itself when turning.
 

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yeah that's why the bracket I made wraps around the lip of the intake and had leads that reach back to the frame. It holds it on by compression. The key is, the holes that you drill in the leads used to mount it to the frame have to be dead on. In fact you need to push on the nose to get them lined up and it will never shake or break again. The brackets were easy to make. Get some flat Steel strips about 2in wide. they should be a thick enough gauge you would have a hard time bending a 6in piece with your hands. If you look at my pics you can see the shape I used. all you need is a measuring tape, hack saw, hammer and a vice. Just pm me if you need any advice or pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
i got it to work today, i bought some 1/16" thick x 3/4" aluminum angle and used basic knippers to cut it into flat 2" pieces then drilled a hole and put the original bolt from the frame holes into it with a lock nut holding it in place.

then i just put it in, forced the fairing as far as it would go back into place and made a little mark where i needed to bend it and used a couple pairs of pliers to make a Z kinda shape that went around the lip and hammered it in. I only made 2 of them for the top, seems to be holding quite well.. i just screwed the excess lip of the bracket into the plastic tube and the compression holds it all together.

seemed to work pretty good. taking it out for a ride tomorrow.

If i wanted to do it properly i would need to get a single bolt that goes through both of the holes, then i could tighten it up and hold it in place by force and not even worry about it. maybe i'll make a new one later, didnt really take that long to make the brackets, spent like 6 bucks on the aluminum and lock nuts.
 

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It will probably hold better if you do both top and bottom. The aluminum will eventually straighten and you will need bend them back in to shape, but every time you do it the metal will get weaker. The screws are still a major weak point. A bracket that attaches to those tabs you made and wraps around the entire intake joining by a nut and bolt at the bottom and through the screw hole in the top of the intake. That is the most cost effective way to mimic the products made by company's for this exact repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Update, the aluminum brackets eventually started wearing out. the first one i made broke last week and the shake was back. it was probably due to the number of times i bent it to get it the right shape because the second bracket was still going strong..

Anyway I went to the local triumph dealership and they actually ordered me the entire kit with the intake tube and all the screws/components for 90 bucks so it doesnt seem to be a huge expensive repair unless they totally screwed something up.

Took the entire front end apart yesterday to get the tube out.. Was a little frustrating to do at first but not anything too crazy.

Parts come in thursday, i'll update then.
 
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