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Here is another picture taken from the other side. Both lines are coming out from behind the large connectors behind the spring. One is going to the brake on the rearset (no slack), the other is going all the way to the rear brake.

I did try removing the large connectors to see if I could release some of the tight line but gave up after a few minutes... those connectors are tight and no room to get hands or tools in there.
 

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Here is another picture taken from the other side. Both lines are coming out from behind the large connectors behind the spring. One is going to the brake on the rearset (no slack), the other is going all the way to the rear brake.

I did try removing the large connectors to see if I could release some of the tight line but gave up after a few minutes... those connectors are tight and no room to get hands or tools in there.
ABS line?
 

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Hey guys, I believe this may be my first post. I recently picked up a track prepped 2014 Daytona with only 500 miles on the clock. The bike has AP rearsets with the Bazzaz QS. The previous owner never did get it to function properly. I've been all over the Triumph sites and wore out the search function trying to figure out why this thing won't work. I found a used pivot plate in the previous owners spare parts bin so I'm assuming he replaced that as well...ASSUMING. The QS shifts fine on the stand but will not function on the road under any kind of load; however, it will occasionally slip into gear at lower RPMS. The bike shifts fine when using the clutch. No problems there at all. Playing with the sensitively doesn't help at all either, and the module illuminates when I apply force to the shifter. I'm hoping somebody here can point me in the right direction. At this point I'm thinking it could be the geometry of the shift rod. I'll post a pic so you can see what I'm working with.

Edit: Apparently it's my 2nd post.
 

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Alright....good talk. In case anybody is following this or can benefit from my ham-fisted attempt to fix this thing, here's an update: Since my last post I completely disassembled the shifter assembly, bought a new shift rod, adjusted the rearset geometry, adjusted shifter sensitivity, and still got no love. As I was manually shifting through the gears on the stand I noticed the display was skipping 3rd gear. It would go from 1 - N - 2 - 4 - 5 - 6. I pulled it off and attempted to manually put it in the 3rd gear position. It continued to skip 3rd gear. It's definitely f*cked. The Bazzaz troubleshooting algorithm also points to the Gear Position Sensor (GPS) as the suspected culprit. I have a new one on order which comes with the updated wiring harness. More to follow.

Mods: At this point I doubt this is an AP Rearset issue. Feel free to move this to the appropriate forum.
 

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Alright....good talk. In case anybody is following this or can benefit from my ham-fisted attempt to fix this thing, here's an update: Since my last post I completely disassembled the shifter assembly, bought a new shift rod, adjusted the rearset geometry, adjusted shifter sensitivity, and still got no love. As I was manually shifting through the gears on the stand I noticed the display was skipping 3rd gear. It would go from 1 - N - 2 - 4 - 5 - 6. I pulled it off and attempted to manually put it in the 3rd gear position. It continued to skip 3rd gear. It's definitely f*cked. The Bazzaz troubleshooting algorithm also points to the Gear Position Sensor (GPS) as the suspected culprit. I have a new one on order which comes with the updated wiring harness. More to follow.

Mods: At this point I doubt this is an AP Rearset issue. Feel free to move this to the appropriate forum.
Your rear linkage isnt at 90* at least from that photo. Also using the top most hole isnt recommended, drop it down one. All linkages need to be at 90* otherwise shifting will be difficult.
 

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Your rear linkage isnt at 90* at least from that photo. Also using the top most hole isnt recommended, drop it down one. All linkages need to be at 90* otherwise shifting will be difficult.
Agreed, and thanks for the response. For the record this (picture) is how the bike was setup when I picked it up. I made the suggested adjustments after reading several posts. I even bought a shorter shift rod to help me obtain 90* but nothing worked. It sounds like guys with faulty clutch switches are having similar issues, except I no longer have a clutch switch due to the race harness/ecu.

I forgot to mention that I also purchased to cheap laptop to help me diagnose/troubleshoot the issue. I downloaded the free Bazzaz software and everything looked fine until I noticed the gear position indicator (on the computer) wasn't registering the correct gear. It continued to show "neutral" regardless of what gear I had the bike in. That's when I notice the incorrect gear position on the motorcycle's display and discovered the faulty GPS. I'm REALLY hoping this is just an electrical issues and the new GPS will solve my problems. I'm usually not that lucky.
 

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Agreed, and thanks for the response. For the record this (picture) is how the bike was setup when I picked it up. I made the suggested adjustments after reading several posts. I even bought a shorter shift rod to help me obtain 90* but nothing worked. It sounds like guys with faulty clutch switches are having similar issues, except I no longer have a clutch switch due to the race harness/ecu.

I forgot to mention that I also purchased to cheap laptop to help me diagnose/troubleshoot the issue. I downloaded the free Bazzaz software and everything looked fine until I noticed the gear position indicator (on the computer) wasn't registering the correct gear. It continued to show "neutral" regardless of what gear I had the bike in. That's when I notice the incorrect gear position on the motorcycle's display and discovered the faulty GPS. I'm REALLY hoping this is just an electrical issues and the new GPS will solve my problems. I'm usually not that lucky.
I would call bazzaz personally. The GPS fault could stop the QS from working as the timings change based on gear, speed, and load so it might go into a fail safe and disable it. That being said Im guessing I run a power commander, with the stock QS.
 

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I would call bazzaz personally. The GPS fault could stop the QS from working as the timings change based on gear, speed, and load so it might go into a fail safe and disable it. That being said Im guessing I run a power commander, with the stock QS.
Yeah man, that's kind of my thought process. I'll contact Bazzaz if the new GPS doesn't solve the problem. On a positive note at least I'm learning how to work on this bike. Thanks again for taking the time to chime in.
 

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While you are waiting on your new GPS, you should completely disassemble the those rearsets. Clean up all the threads and put on plenty of red Loctite for reassembly.
 

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Good call. I planned on stripping the bike down when I replace the shock and send the forks off. I'll include the rearsets as well. Did you have a bad a experience?
 

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Mine rattled apart on three separate occasions last season. Once in practice and twice in races.
Once all the bolts are fully secured there are the best rearsets available, in my opinion.
 

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Mine rattled apart on three separate occasions last season. Once in practice and twice in races.
Once all the bolts are fully secured there are the best rearsets available, in my opinion.
Noted. It'll give me something else to do over the winter.
 

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While you are waiting on your new GPS, you should completely disassemble the those rearsets. Clean up all the threads and put on plenty of red Loctite for reassembly.
Blue threadlocker is sufficient and is all I used on my rearsets. Red is used for permanent applications and would require heat for removal, otherwise it would be a PITA to remove.
 

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Attack Performance advised me to use red and red solved the problems.
(I typically use red on everything and have never once needed heat to break a bolt)
I even siliconed my shift lever bolt in place. Kinda gets frustrating to lose your ability to shift midrace.
 

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That would suck, especially when pushing at that level.

I can't say I've never had an issue with having to put a blow torch to something to have some bolts removed due to red threadlocker, but it's happened to me on a few occasions. Twice with red and once with green, all installed from the factory/manufacturer. Ended up taking those parts to a shop to get the rest of the bolts extracted... heat was used all times as well.

I put a Woodcraft shift lever on my ST3 and a bolt that was pre-installed came loose even though I checked it to make sure it was tight. Put some blue threadlocker on it and haven't had an issue since. I probably use more blue threadlocker than necessary, but it hasn't been an issue for me yet. Also used blue on a few bolts of my engine cover bolts on my D675 and those haven't come loose since.

Red is for permanent applications and will be difficult to remove if "plenty" is used and left untouched for a long period of time. If choosing to use red threadlocker, I would recommend to use it sparingly on bolts that will be removed/installed often.
 

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::posting this here as well as in the Street Triple section of the forum::

Installed a set of Attack Performance rearsets so I can have GP shift on my street bike to match my Daytona (track bike)





HUGE thanks to the knowledge on this thread and Rookie28's heads up that I'd need to fabricate a little hanger bracket for the SC Project conic.

Note: I opted to go with a hydraulic brake light switch:

K&S Technologies part #12-0010 which is a 10mm x 1.25 switch.

Summit Racing carries them if you wish to go that route.

You will need to cut the connector off the stock switch and crimp it onto the new one. Other than that, thanks to the forum I didn't encounter any issues. (Go team!)
 

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Anyone have issues with a GP shift setup and downshifts? I had to rotate the shift actuator off the peened dot and towards the rear of the bike to get enough forward motion on the shifter to downshift before the rod between pedal and bell crank hits the main pivot. Spacers are in place, but it just wouldn’t travel enough.

Rotating it that way it will shift, but I lose the nice 90 degree. Maybe a longer shift rod? I am using an 8.5” Woodcraft, since I don’t have the OEM. Track only set up on a 2009 that had a set of Arrows that weren’t happy.
 

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Anyone have issues with a GP shift setup and downshifts? I had to rotate the shift actuator off the peened dot and towards the rear of the bike to get enough forward motion on the shifter to downshift before the rod between pedal and bell crank hits the main pivot. Spacers are in place, but it just wouldn't travel enough.

Rotating it that way it will shift, but I lose the nice 90 degree. Maybe a longer shift rod? I am using an 8.5" Woodcraft, since I don't have the OEM. Track only set up on a 2009 that had a set of Arrows that weren't happy.
What year Daytona?

I had same problems as others with my new-to-me 2012 D675R track bike, GP shift. I ended up making my own shift rod in order to have the shifter at the height I wanted. As others noted: getting the shift rod attached more towards the bottom of the attachment point (e.g. closer to the footpeg) helps a lot.

My shift actuator appears to be rotated anti-clockwise 1 notch on the shift spline relative to the factory dimple. So if you're not aligned with the dimple I wouldn't worry about it. The 90* angle at the actuator is still important, so I think you're right-on in terms of maybe needing a different shift rod. My shift rod is roughly 150mm (NOT including threaded portion) and I have the factory QS. I can measure full length of shift rod if you want; would just have to remove it to do so. LMK. My shift rod is 90* at the actuator but not quite 90* at the rearset. It works great so I've left it like this for now.
 

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It’s a gen2 — 2009 with a 2012 engine, etc. I suspect I have too short a rod; I’m just trying to figure out a good length. At 8.5” and no QS the pedal is too high and was actually hitting the frame of the rearset. I thought it was the bearing.

If you have a 150mm rod I think i have the spec for the size of the QS; if you have the total spec that’d be great if you don’t have to dismantle the thing!
 
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