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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 675 that has a brand new charged battery, a brand new regulator rectifier and a stator that checks out as in working condition. I just charged the battery, and it wouldn't start. I jumped the battery, bike started. rode it about 2 miles, turned it off, tried to start it again and engine barely turned and would not start. tried to start it again, same thing. it often just makes a click noise followed by a quick zapping noise when i hit the ignition. this thing won't start and i feel like i have exhausted every option so far. any suggestions.
 

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I have a 675 that has a brand new charged battery, a brand new regulator rectifier and a stator that checks out as in working condition. I just charged the battery, and it wouldn't start. I jumped the battery, bike started. rode it about 2 miles, turned it off, tried to start it again and engine barely turned and would not start. tried to start it again, same thing. it often just makes a click noise followed by a quick zapping noise when i hit the ignition. this thing won't start and i feel like i have exhausted every option so far. any suggestions.
Where did you get this brand new R/R?

Also, is the battery brand new or did you mean that you had just charged it?

sassafras
 

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Check the engine ground to make sure that it has good clean contact.

Triumph rebuild19.jpg
I think that this is a pic of the area.......:coolgleamA:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
the battery is brand new. I just bought a brand new battery a couple of weeks ago and it turns out it had a bad cell, so i took it back and got another brand new one. I got the regulator rectifier from regulatorrectifier.com. Everything checks out as in working condition.

I don't know what the engine ground or the startermotor is. how do i check those?
 

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If you got a defective brand new battery last time, couldn't it be possible it's also defective this time ? :whistle:

Check the voltage etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
you're right that the battery could be deffective, but i've run every test on the battery, it comes out good, as well as the rectifier and stator. I left the batter on the charger all night. put it in the bike and it started right up this morning. i went to work and came home and tried to start it again, it started right up. i revved it to get the stator going, shut it off, then tried to turn it on again and it turned a bit and didmn't start. i turned the key off, then turned it on and started the bike, it started right up, turned it off, started it again, turned it off, and started it once more. it seems to be starting fine now, but it just seems off.. i think there may be a shortage in a cirtcuit or something. any more suggestions are welcome, but i will update everyone on anything new. i appreciate all of the feedback.
 

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Do you get the customary 14 V when the engine is on ?
 

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you're right that the battery could be deffective, but i've run every test on the battery, it comes out good, as well as the rectifier and stator. I left the batter on the charger all night. put it in the bike and it started right up this morning. i went to work and came home and tried to start it again, it started right up. i revved it to get the stator going, shut it off, then tried to turn it on again and it turned a bit and didmn't start. i turned the key off, then turned it on and started the bike, it started right up, turned it off, started it again, turned it off, and started it once more. it seems to be starting fine now, but it just seems off.. i think there may be a shortage in a cirtcuit or something. any more suggestions are welcome, but i will update everyone on anything new. i appreciate all of the feedback.
My (few months old from new) battery was reading 12.9 volts and still wouldn't start. It was shot and got replaced. I charged the new one for 24 hours. It also reads about 12.9 volts when not running, but somehow manages to start the bike! It's electrics and I don't get it, but possibly something to do with the AMPS it's kicking out, not sure how to test that though.
 

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Sounds like a bit of a dodgy earth connection to me.

What will happen is that if your earth wire is not making a solid contact with the metal it is attached to (say it is corroded, dirty etc) then your electrical circuit won't be completed and power won't flow in the system.
This can also be true if it is making only very week power as perhaps the earth connection is just good enough to let a little current flow but not the full current that is required.

I would check that your battery earth connection is in good condition and also any other earthing points (yellowduct pointed one out which is on the engine near the subframe connection to the main frame).
Sorry i can't tell you exactly where to look but i don't know where they are as i haven't had a hard look at the wiring loom.

Cheers,
 

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If it starts with a jump start your starting problem is with the battery and its connections.

Check the charging circuit by runningthe motor at 4K rpm and measuring the voltage at the battery terminals with a multimeter. It should be no less than about 13.8V and ideally no more than about 14.6V, although readings up to about 15.2V are probably OK.

Battery connections include the battery earth to the ground connection, and the engine to frame earth.

Ruby Racing - there are three things needed for the battery to operate properly. One is the electromotive force or potential that the battery is charged to. That's measured as voltage.

One is the amount of electricity in the battery. Less electricity, less voltage, but a small battery, or a battery with internal damage reducing its capacity, will charge to the same voltage as a good battery but holds less electricity.

The third is the internal resistance of the battery. Current is derived from voltage/total circuit resistance, so a high resistance in the battery, the less current to turn the starter.

A sulphated battery has low capacity and high internal resistance.

Put simply, you can have two batteries charged to 12.9V, one of which is good and will start the bike, the other which is u/s and won't.

Rob
 

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If it starts with a jump start your starting problem is with the battery and its connections.

Check the charging circuit by runningthe motor at 4K rpm and measuring the voltage at the battery terminals with a multimeter. It should be no less than about 13.8V and ideally no more than about 14.6V, although readings up to about 15.2V are probably OK.

Battery connections include the battery earth to the ground connection, and the engine to frame earth.

Ruby Racing - there are three things needed for the battery to operate properly. One is the electromotive force or potential that the battery is charged to. That's measured as voltage.

One is the amount of electricity in the battery. Less electricity, less voltage, but a small battery, or a battery with internal damage reducing its capacity, will charge to the same voltage as a good battery but holds less electricity.

The third is the internal resistance of the battery. Current is derived from voltage/total circuit resistance, so a high resistance in the battery, the less current to turn the starter.

A sulphated battery has low capacity and high internal resistance.

Put simply, you can have two batteries charged to 12.9V, one of which is good and will start the bike, the other which is u/s and won't.

Rob
Thanks for that explanation Rob. All sounds logical and would explain why my battery had no power even though the voltage was reading OK.
 
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