[mszilves]

For those that have or have ridden or raced the 2013+ on the track, I'm curious on opinions of the bike's handling traits.

I am putting together a 2013 675R race bike for next season, and can't help but notice the steep front geometry numbers: 23 deg rake and a mere 87.9mm trail. I'm sure you can slide the forks down 5mm or so for a tiny bit more, but it is still pretty steep.

What are your experiences with riding this bike? How is it's stability? Is there anywhere on track at pace that it is twitchy or nervous? I know Rider's Discount runs the Attack Triples on their race bike for Danny...

 

[RealRecognizeReal]

For those that have or have ridden or raced the 2013+ on the track, I'm curious on opinions of the bike's handling traits.

I am putting together a 2013 675R race bike for next season, and can't help but notice the steep front geometry numbers: 23 deg rake and a mere 87.9mm trail. I'm sure you can slide the forks down 5mm or so for a tiny bit more, but it is still pretty steep.

What are your experiences with riding this bike? How is it's stability? Is there anywhere on track at pace that it is twitchy or nervous? I know Rider's Discount runs the Attack Triples on their race bike for Danny...

Good call buddy.. The front is way to stiff on the 13-14.. There are a multitude of aftermarket triple clamps to help offset this trail/rake.. I am waiting for my Evol Technology one (couple weeks away, Steve Korol is from Boise Idaho so I am LUCKY. Nothing is in Idaho.)

Also, the forks construction are super stiff for the bike itself.. I would like a Nitron, Lenny Albin has a alot of experience tuning the 675 and knows the details on all the weak spots.

Dude, what is a bigger issue with the New Daytonas, is the Clutch and Tranny... The Shifting of the 2013+ daytona is the achilles heel of the D675R.. I have had to refresh my 'shifter mechanism' parts 3 times already this season. The pros referesh the poorly designed 'pivot shift plate' in between every racing round.. The bike is strong and untapped as far as power potential.. Its just that the newer bikes are stiff and cant shift worth shit.

All of this coupled with the fact that you cannot get parts without a 30-45 back order from the UK factory.. <<< not a fun thing to deal with from the factory as a racer who nom noms thru oem parts..

Ahhhh.. ive owned/tracked the R6,600RR, and 675R... The triumph, even for being a new bike, has had the most troubles in getting 'race ready'... lots of lil bugs that i feel like there is lil factory support on.. Again, its a UK company, not a Jap powerhouse sooo apples and oranges really..

 

[wavrdr]

I have been racing the 2013 for the past few rounds.

My bike is equipped with Attack 28mm offset triples, an RSR rear link, gas Ohlins carts, a modded TTX with a hydraulic adjuster...

What I have found is that the front end feel is great on the brakes even to max travel. The bike seems less precise turning in then my 2006 with similar mods which has caused me to ride the bike differently.. I'm still trying to get the bike fully sorted with the help of Thermosman.....he did all the mod work.

I have not had the shifting issues as both of the engines I have received a modded shift fork. I'm also running an aftermarket slipper(STM) and a translogic shift box attached to the stock QS solenoid.

I highly suggestt investing in a set of kit springs for the valves...

 

[RealRecognizeReal]

I have been racing the 2013 for the past few rounds.

My bike is equipped with Attack 28mm offset triples, an RSR rear link, gas Ohlins carts, a modded TTX with a hydraulic adjuster...

What I have found is that the front end feel is great on the brakes even to max travel. The bike seems less precise turning in then my 2006 with similar mods which has caused me to ride the bike differently.. I'm still trying to get the bike fully sorted with the help of Thermosman.....he did all the mod work.

I have not had the shifting issues as both of the engines I have received a modded shift fork. I'm also running an aftermarket slipper(STM) and a translogic shift box attached to the stock QS solenoid.

I highly suggestt investing in a set of kit springs for the valves...

Translogic shift box + STM slipper = Awesome Race setup.. I need to do this, thank you for replying to this

 

[wavrdr]

The Translogic box is from a Kawi, you just leave one of the coil connections off. Simply connect the stock QS wires to it and you're good to go!

 

[RealRecognizeReal]

The Translogic box is from a Kawi, you just leave one of the coil connections off. Simply connect the stock QS wires to it and you're good to go!

Nice.. :.) can you control the QuickShift Timings? im sure you can, this thing says it "adapts" to your riding style? idk how that would work but sound steezy:biggrinjester:

 

[wavrdr]

I believe you can hook it up to a laptop and tune it accordingly. I have left mine as it was when it was installed, it works great!

 

[mszilves]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Had the bike out at two different tracks this past week. First time on the bike really and was using these 2 days mostly for setup. Here's what I felt.

Started with 41mm sag in front and 34mm in rear, and default hydraulic settings per manual. This setup felt "nose-heavy" with the front end feeling like it wanted to push on long fast sweepers. This is on new DOT Supercorsas SC2 front/rear. 33/26 hot as recommended by Pirelli and my local tire guy.

I also have a '13 Street Triple R that feels super stable in comparison.

First thing I did was changed sag to 34mm front and rear, and slid the forks down one line, so 3 lines (2 bands) showing on the Ohlins. This definitely helped, but I can't help but think the bike still doesn't feel as planted as the STR. It wasn't doing anything weird, no issues on transitions, or wallowing, but can't help that it still feels nose-heavy. I don't want to run out and get the Attack triples before exploring options and seeing if I can find a good setup.

Any advice/observations?

 

[jim996]

There is loads on the Forum on this subject. I raced an 07 and struggled with the front for years. The attack triple clamps are good but also adds a lot more variables to the equation. I gave up in the end and bought an ex World Supersport R6, in my opinion the R6 handles better.

 

[mszilves]

There is loads on the Forum on this subject. I raced an 07 and struggled with the front for years. The attack triple clamps are good but also adds a lot more variables to the equation. I gave up in the end and bought an ex World Supersport R6, in my opinion the R6 handles better.

Was there anything in particular that made you give up? The RD bikes seem to be doing well with the Attack triples... In comparison my STR with 96mm of trail seems to feel much better.

 

[Frisky]

I raced 2006 675 for 2 seasons and loved it when I got the geometry and suspension sorted. I just bought a 2014 675R for the road and track days and think it's a vast improvement stock although I'm still running it in. I did work at a suspension tuning shop with one of the world's best so I really had an advantage (he's also a 5 time national champion and raced wild card 250cc grand prix in the early nineties).
I found it was extremely sensitive to front / rear ride heights. Even a mm difference made a huge difference. You're on the right track raising the forks. I would also take a link out the chain and get that wheelbase as short as possible (massive difference and able to hold a really tight line).
Also, and this applies to all bikes, get some light fork springs in the front (9kg) and really soften the front compression. It gives you that feel that you're after and you can carry huge speed in the turns and hold a tight line. Don't try and control fork dive on the brakes with hard springs and compression, control that with air gap.
I was given a brand new 2008 R6 to race and gave it back after one session on the track, the triumph was too good out the turns with its torque and corner speed was immense.

 

[RealRecognizeReal]

I raced 2006 675 for 2 seasons and loved it when I got the geometry and suspension sorted. I just bought a 2014 675R for the road and track days and think it's a vast improvement stock although I'm still running it in. I did work at a suspension tuning shop with one of the world's best so I really had an advantage (he's also a 5 time national champion and raced wild card 250cc grand prix in the early nineties).
I found it was extremely sensitive to front / rear ride heights. Even a mm difference made a huge difference. You're on the right track raising the forks. I would also take a link out the chain and get that wheelbase as short as possible (massive difference and able to hold a really tight line).
Also, and this applies to all bikes, get some light fork springs in the front (9kg) and really soften the front compression. It gives you that feel that you're after and you can carry huge speed in the turns and hold a tight line. Don't try and control fork dive on the brakes with hard springs and compression, control that with air gap.
I was given a brand new 2008 R6 to race and gave it back after one session on the track, the triumph was too good out the turns with its torque and corner speed was immense.

:grouphug:Thanks for the reply buddy. This is all true.. I have been doin the same thing with my sprockets... I run 13-44 most of the time. Great point on using the suspension to get the feel you want, but stock, this bike needs some work to get to hold that line tighter. Def nice when you look and it goes exactly where you want it like a laser!

 

[Frisky]

You will get there and it will be worth it. Not sure what class you're racing in but we run superstock rules where that midrange grunt out the corners was a huge advantage, corner speed was also higher. The issue I had with the first gen bike is that lack of weight at the rear which was terrible braking into downhill bends.
Don't forget that by running smaller sprocket to get your wheelbase shorter can mess with your chain/ swingarm pivot heights

 

[mszilves]

I raced 2006 675 for 2 seasons and loved it when I got the geometry and suspension sorted. I just bought a 2014 675R for the road and track days and think it's a vast improvement stock although I'm still running it in. I did work at a suspension tuning shop with one of the world's best so I really had an advantage (he's also a 5 time national champion and raced wild card 250cc grand prix in the early nineties).
I found it was extremely sensitive to front / rear ride heights. Even a mm difference made a huge difference. You're on the right track raising the forks. I would also take a link out the chain and get that wheelbase as short as possible (massive difference and able to hold a really tight line).
Also, and this applies to all bikes, get some light fork springs in the front (9kg) and really soften the front compression. It gives you that feel that you're after and you can carry huge speed in the turns and hold a tight line. Don't try and control fork dive on the brakes with hard springs and compression, control that with air gap.
I was given a brand new 2008 R6 to race and gave it back after one session on the track, the triumph was too good out the turns with its torque and corner speed was immense.

Excellent feedback thanks! I normally run on the softer side for front springs, and the bike being as light as it is, I wonder if that is what is causing that heavy front end feeling.

My style is more smooth and high corner speeds vs point and shoot, so I normally don't run super hard front springs. Right now, with the bike completely stock (0.95kg springs in the front from what I've read), I still have about 25-30mm of fork travel left after a session, including a couple hard braking hairpins. I'm not sure what the stock oil height is, and I have the compression fairly soft as well, at 16 clicks out on the OEM Ohlins.

At 180lbs, I think the 0.90s will probably be better, at least it's the cheapest option before swapping triples etc. I actually don't mind the stock gearing currently for the tracks I am running on.

 

[Frisky]

I was running either 0.9kg fork springs and either a 9.0 or 9.5 kg in the rear but like I said that was a 2006/7.
I'm still running in my '14 675R so haven't taken it on the track yet

 

[mszilves]

Still thinking of ideas now that it's the offseason. Has anyone used the triple clamps from a Street Triple on the 675R? Trail would increase to around 96mm. To accommodate the Ohlins on the 675R, I'd have to bore the lower triple out by 2mm.

I can get a machine shop to bore it out, but would it be safe?

 

[Zaph]

Interesting thread, I hope to hear more from 13+ guys. I'm off an 09 which I loved and on a 13 for 2015. I haven't got it on the track yet, but did a few road rides on local twisties before I started to strip it down for track duty. The bike was so quick steering it scared me a little. It felt like one wrong bar input and the bike flies out from under me.

Interesting idea using the triples from a street.

I'm hoping I don't have to buy new triple clamps, so my first thing I try will be to drop the forks a couple lines.

 

[RealRecognizeReal]

Still thinking of ideas now that it's the offseason. Has anyone used the triple clamps from a Street Triple on the 675R? Trail would increase to around 96mm. To accommodate the Ohlins on the 675R, I'd have to bore the lower triple out by 2mm.

I can get a machine shop to bore it out, but would it be safe?

I am having something special made for me.. will post link and pics soon as this will be what us racers have been looking for to correct the stiff front end the +'13 D675R notoriously have.

Keep yall posted

 

[RidersDiscount]

We've used the Attack clamps for the last few years, and the adjust-ability has been great. The newest style work extremely well.

The numbers I have on the Street Triple clamps would put trail closer to 92mm, which is better, but still not ideal.

 

[mszilves]

We've used the Attack clamps for the last few years, and the adjust-ability has been great. The newest style work extremely well.

The numbers I have on the Street Triple clamps would put trail closer to 92mm, which is better, but still not ideal.

Thanks TJ, great info! Are the clamps in the pic the newest style? Can you PM a price on those to WA, 98338?