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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for verification, I think my electrical system is toasted. Scroll to ** heres where the final blow comes** for troublshooting and symptoms.
I have had this bike for 1.5 weeks. Now its in pieces in the garage.
Before I bought the bike the seller noted the battery was drained (he did not check V, he just couldnt get the starter to turn the motor over after MN winter.) He got it charged enough to start and we met so I could test ride. Bike died during test ride. With the recent charge in mind I assumed the battery needed replacement. So I stated as condition of purchase, battery needed to be replaced, oil, coolant, and air filter needed to be refreshed.
Request was met, or so he said. I know he replaced the battery as he provided new box.
Now with owning the bike for less than 2 weeks, on my 4th ride I had a start that was sluggish to turn the starter (thought new battery was under/improperly charged) so i figured just riding it a good 2 hours would pick up the battery enough and i could put it on a tender till me next ride. Well stupid me after riding 2 hours, stopping to fill at the pump and starting the bike without issue forgot about the tender when I got home. 2 days later I hop on for a ride and the turn the key on, kill switch to on. Lights come on, when key turned, ECU starts speaking in astromech (like chopper), display lights up, fuel pump primes. Hit the starter and “click” (low battery). Grab the tender get the battery charged from 60% to 80% hit the starter and get revs to slow to get full ignition. In the sense of time as my buddy waits for me, I bump it down hill and shes alive. Ride for about 45 min, it starts raining and im heading home.

* heres where the final blow comes***
as I am on my way home in the rain, the bike rpm’s have a slight oscillation sounding like a slightly out of tune harmony around 4k rpm. Then it losses all power, engine off, display off and rpm tacho at frozen at 6k

get home and start TS’ing. Batter catalyst cap popped off, (battery has over heated, realization of R/R probably bad this whole time. Removed battery and placed a spare battery I use for testing or emergencies for Suzuki Savage.Test battery at 12.7V installed. Key on, lights on. Kill switch on, Nothing. No astromech noises, no fuel pump prime, no display. T/S’ing found R/R bad, diodes fried, stator was crispy all phases shorted. Found fuse 4 blown. Tried to replace and as soon as batter power reconnected, “Pop” fuse blown. Removed display, replaced fuse connected battery, fuse good. Connected display, fuse blows. I believe my display is fried and possibly my ecu as it will not power on.

No burnt connectors noted.
stator was hardwired (me thinks this is not the first time this bike has seen a charge issue)
Horn which was not working at the time of purchase had a pulled wire from connector.

For the extra kick in the pants, the air filter was black and tattered. Definitely not replaced, maybe knocked against a boot twice before being yeeted down a gravel road and put back in the airbox. ow thinking the coolant and oil was shit too.

All the connectors were packed full of grease (not even dielectric) and had sand packed in there as well.
Any assistance on further troublshooting or correction of my troubleshooting would be appreciated. As well best way to verify ECU good or bad.
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Entire charging system is obviously toast, a not uncommon issue on these, and not expensive to fix.

The point of the fuse is to save the electronics downstream from getting fried so hopefully your ECU and cluster are okay. You should be able to apply 12v to the power pin on back of the cluster and see if it comes to life. If you don't have a service manual PM me and I'll send you a link to it. It has a wiring diagram.

Don't know how to fully test an ECU. They're widely available on eBay so you could just buy one (resell it if it turns out you don't need it).

If you're going to save her first step is to replace stator/RR/battery. There's no way around that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Unfortunately I cannot pm, “not met the interactive reqs…” Thank you for the response, I would greatly appreciate the link to the manual. Thank you!
 

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Had a very similar situation a couple years ago on my bike where turning power on would immediately blow the same 10A fuse. What happened is the R/R went bad, which then cooked the battery (one of those small LiPo units the previous owner installed....stay far away from those things) and then the battery caught fire and all hell broke loose. Luckily the bike didn't burn to the ground. Anyway bottom line is it was the ECU that went bad and was blowing the fuse. I drove myself crazy for hours studying the schematic and running down every circuit tied to that fuse because a fried ECU causing the problem seemed so far fetched. So I got a used ECU from ebay, along with an upgraded R/R (Shindengen mosfet FH020AA) which I relocated to the front of the bike under the right side filler panel, and the bike has been perfect ever since.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Had a very similar situation a couple years ago on my bike where turning power on would immediately blow the same 10A fuse. What happened is the R/R went bad, which then cooked the battery (one of those small LiPo units the previous owner installed....stay far away from those things) and then the battery caught fire and all hell broke loose. Luckily the bike didn't burn to the ground. Anyway bottom line is it was the ECU that went bad and was blowing the fuse. I drove myself crazy for hours studying the schematic and running down every circuit tied to that fuse because a fried ECU causing the problem seemed so far fetched. So I got a used ECU from ebay, along with an upgraded R/R (Shindengen mosfet FH020AA) which I relocated to the front of the bike under the right side filler panel, and the bike has been perfect ever since.

Good luck!
Thank you for the input! At this point im convinced im going to have yo replace everything major component wise in the charging and management system. R/R and stator replacements arrived, now for the heavy financial hit of replacing the ecu and display.
 
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