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I had my fairings off, and noticed a gap in the weld on a pipe connection on my exhaust, just underneath the engine. I spoke to one mechanic who said it is possibly a bleed to release moisture but he has not seen pictures yet. Another said my only option is to remove the whole exhaust and get a welder on it.

Any chance this is actually a bleed or repair is necessary? I only have pictures from the underside of the bike that capture the side of the gap.
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This is a common failure on our exhaust. I have seen other post on this very site with same failure as yours.

No, there is no water drainage for our exhaust there. and yes, you will have to remove your exhaust to get it welded or replaced.

It's not that hard to take our exhaust off and I have seen a few post on here people selling their stock exhaust. Sadly you might have to buy the whole stock exhaust but they go for around $100.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This is a common failure on our exhaust. I have seen other post on this very site with same failure as yours.

No, there is no water drainage for our exhaust there. and yes, you will have to remove your exhaust to get it welded or replaced.

It's not that hard to take our exhaust off and I have seen a few post on here people selling their stock exhaust. Sadly you might have to buy the whole stock exhaust but they go for around $100.
Thanks for the response.

How critical is this failure? Firstly in terms of any loss of power, and secondly getting progressively worse over time as far as that gap goes? I definitely intend to get it repaired but just want an idea on the urgency of it, because for all I know, it could have existed since the day I purchased the bike 3 years ago.

As far as replacement, will check out this forum for posts. Thanks man.
 

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Thanks for the response.

How critical is this failure? Firstly in terms of any loss of power, and secondly getting progressively worse over time as far as that gap goes? I definitely intend to get it repaired but just want an idea on the urgency of it, because for all I know, it could have existed since the day I purchased the bike 3 years ago.

As far as replacement, will check out this forum for posts. Thanks man.
With power loss I don't know exactly how much you will lose. Maybe a little torque on the butt dyno but overall nothing significant.
To put it simple at high rpms your bike is shooting flames out of the exhaust ports of the engine, those flames/hot flaming hot exhaust gases are going to melt something. Most likely your $600 radiator.

I would down the bike until I get it fix. You really don't want to melt anything else in the middle of a ride. I would hate to read that your bike caught fire or worse melting some hard to diagnose part that cause your bike to do random things.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
With power loss I don't know exactly how much you will lose. Maybe a little torque on the butt dyno but overall nothing significant.
To put it simple at high rpms your bike is shooting flames out of the exhaust ports of the engine, those flames/hot flaming hot exhaust gases are going to melt something. Most likely your $600 radiator.

I would down the bike until I get it fix. You really don't want to melt anything else in the middle of a ride. I would hate to read that your bike caught fire or worse melting some hard to diagnose part that cause your bike to do random things.
Good point regarding hot gases coming out of that opening. i suppose it would only be a risk if the bike is moving really slow or stationary, surely the air flow while moving would negate any effects of those gases? I might be wrong, just thinking out loud, and I appreciate your sensible advice.

This might be stupid, but would some flashing and muffler cement perform a good patch job?
 

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Good point regarding hot gases coming out of that opening. i suppose it would only be a risk if the bike is moving really slow or stationary, surely the air flow while moving would negate any effects of those gases? I might be wrong, just thinking out loud, and I appreciate your sensible advice.

This might be stupid, but would some flashing and muffler cement perform a good patch job?
Lmao!! You are so determined to ride. I love the enthusiasm.

I honestly don't have concrete proof that it will negate those hot exhaust gases while you are riding. On cars and trucks it does not. Customers come in because they smell something burning. The lucky ones come in when they smell exhaust gases in the cab .
I would assume your exhaust gases are flowing a lot faster then the wind you are cutting through at highway speeds. So it should blow away from your radiator and towards something else. You have to ask yourself.... do I really need ride? And can I afford to fix what ever else this leak might melt

Side note....that reminds me I melted my triangle . Need to find one on here.


Not stupid at all, i have never used it. We either weld it or put a sleeve over the section and 2 clamps. Never tried any type of epoxy.
Just call around to your local muffle shop, send them a photo and see how much they charge to weld it back. Dirt bike/offroad shops do it more commonly
You have to take it off anyway
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Lmao!! You are so determined to ride. I love the enthusiasm.

I honestly don't have concrete proof that it will negate those hot exhaust gases while you are riding. On cars and trucks it does not. Customers come in because they smell something burning. The lucky ones come in when they smell exhaust gases in the cab .
I would assume your exhaust gases are flowing a lot faster then the wind you are cutting through at highway speeds. So it should blow away from your radiator and towards something else. You have to ask yourself.... do I really need ride? And can I afford to fix what ever else this leak might melt

Side note....that reminds me I melted my triangle . Need to find one on here.


Not stupid at all, i have never used it. We either weld it or put a sleeve over the section and 2 clamps. Never tried any type of epoxy.
Just call around to your local muffle shop, send them a photo and see how much they charge to weld it back. Dirt bike/offroad shops do it more commonly
You have to take it off anyway
I am going to remove the exhaust today and get it to a welder. What type of metal is the exhaust pipe composed of?
 

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I am going to remove the exhaust today and get it to a welder. What type of metal is the exhaust pipe composed of?
Stainless steel
 
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You are going to need new exhaust gaskets. They are crush gaskets and are one time use. I believe the manual also suggests new nuts. The gasket has a tab on it that has to go in a particular direction on the engine so read the repair manual when doing it.
 

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You are going to need new exhaust gaskets. They are crush gaskets and are one time use. I believe the manual also suggests new nuts. The gasket has a tab on it that has to go in a particular direction on the engine so read the repair manual when doing it.
Found a dealer with gaskets in hand not too far from me, good shout. The manual does suggest new nuts. Is there any reason why one should refrain from buying non OEM nuts from an auto shop or hardware store? They are just standard m8x1.25, correct? And I guess that question would extend to any of the nuts on the bike.
 

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I believe they are lock nuts. Since this is a high heat area, the locking color will be something other than the typical nylon you get from a hardware store. If you can find high heat lock nuts, I see no reason you couldn’t use them.
 
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