Triumph 675 Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, just recently got the bike. Everything looked in great condition. Rode it 2 hours back to my place. For 4 days the bike worked perfectly. Had a slow start 1 morning but that was it. Then after riding for about 30 minutes, stopped to get something to eat, came back out to start the bike and it would crank but not turnover. Let it sit for 30 mins and tried again, this time, only a “click”, then the gauge reset. Got it towed to a mechanic. They put a new battery in it. When I picked it up everything was fine. Rode for about 2 hours that same day to enjoy the bike, got back to my place, accidentally stalled, when I tried to turn the bike back on, it made the “click” sound and wouldn’t start. When I jump the battery with my car, it turned on and ran fine. The voltage of the battery when jumped and running is about 11.8. When I rev the bike to about 5k rpm, voltage goes to about 12.2 and plateau’s. When idling the voltage stays @ about 10 and doesn’t drop. But as soon as I turn the bike off and try to start it, it gives me the infamous “click”. I tested the voltage to the battery and it’s @ 9.5 volts with ignition and cutoff switch in the off position. It’s a brand new battery and from what I see, it should be at around 12v. When I turn the ignition on and cutoff switch on, volts drop to around 6.5 and steadily drop even though it’s a brand new battery. Does this sounds like a R/R or stator issue? Or starter issue? (I’m new to the motorcycle community so I appreciate the help and hope I was descriptive enough!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
614 Posts
Could be either a stator or reg/rec. It could also be a bad connection between the stator and reg/rec. I had that happen and my bike left me stranded. Clean the contacts at the reg/rec well and apply electric grease. I also cut out the connectors between the two and soldered the wires. Not an issue since.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sotoe797101

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Your bike is not charging the battery while running. Like Renboy said this is because either the stator is fried or the R/R is no longer doing its job. Your bike at idle should read over 14v to be charging properly. Much less and the more you drive the weaker your battery will get.

Under the tank there's a plug from the stator to the R/R (white usually). These are known to degrade over time (they live in a very hot environment on the triples) and even melt. I'd check that first. If plug looks good test stator and R/R.

You should be able to find how to test stator and R/R on a Triumph forum or even YouTube. You just need a volt meter.

It's unlikely to be the connection at the R/R as this is a hefty plug that's well shielded and I've never seen one fail.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Could be either a stator or reg/rec. It could also be a bad connection between the stator and reg/rec. I had that happen and my bike left me stranded. Clean the contacts at the reg/rec well and apply electric grease. I also cut out the connectors between the two and soldered the wires. Not an issue since.
Thank you. I’ll definitely try that. Not too sure about soldering since I’ve never done it before but I’ll check the connector and apply some electric grease!
Your bike is not charging the battery while running. Like Renboy said this is because either the stator is fried or the R/R is no longer doing its job. Your bike at idle should read over 14v to be charging properly. Much less and the more you drive the weaker your battery will get.

Under the tank there's a plug from the stator to the R/R (white usually). These are known to degrade over time (they live in a very hot environment on the triples) and even melt. I'd check that first. If plug looks good test stator and R/R.

You should be able to find how to test stator and R/R on a Triumph forum or even YouTube. You just need a volt meter.

It's unlikely to be the connection at the R/R as this is a hefty plug that's well shielded and I've never seen one fail.
I actually just watched a couple videos on how to test the R/R and stator so I’ll definitely give it a shot. But that makes sense as to why the battery voltage would be low even though it’s a brand new battery. Thanks for the input!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
No doubt this is the problem. If you're getting 11.8v with the bike running you're draining your battery continually. Charging system working right will have the battery measure 14 to 14.5v at idle. When you rev the bike this should not change much. If voltage spikes when you rev the bike the regulator ain't regulating and needs to be replaced for sure.

Stator swap is a bit of work but doable by the average semi-mechanically inclined person.

R/R swap is doable by even a trained chimpanzee.

It's considered a good idea to replace both at the same time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No doubt this is the problem. If you're getting 11.8v with the bike running you're draining your battery continually. Charging system working right will have the battery measure 14 to 14.5v at idle. When you rev the bike this should not change much. If voltage spikes when you rev the bike the regulator ain't regulating and needs to be replaced for sure.

Stator swap is a bit of work but doable by the average semi-mechanically inclined person.

R/R swap is doable by even a trained chimpanzee.

It's considered a good idea to replace both at the same time.
Thank you for the info. I guess I must have the intelligence of something less than a chimpanzee because I could not remove the stator for the life of me today. Do you just use a smaller wrench to get at it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
614 Posts
Once all the bolts for the stator cover are removed you have to yank the cover off to overcome the strength of the magnets.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Thank you for the info. I guess I must have the intelligence of something less than a chimpanzee because I could not remove the stator for the life of me today. Do you just use a smaller wrench to get at it?
Stator isn't that easy. Case is held on by magnetic force, pry around the edges lightly (ideally with something plastic but a screwdriver will work). Once you get it a bit away from the engine it comes right off. Inside the case is the stator. The color of it will tell you somewhat about its condition. Dark and black means the windings are fried. If it's all nice and shiny and coopery colored it's likely good.

The chimpanzee work is the R/R. It's just two plugs. Push the releases and pull. Depending on what bike you have getting to it may be the hardest part. On my 2012 it's inside the right mid fairing. You can have it out in 5 minutes.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top