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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,

I'm in need of a new chain so I might as well get the sprockets too and gear it to fit my application better. I'm running a fast A group pace now and I never touch 6th gear. Down the long straight at Laguna Seca, I'm barely topping 5th gear. What is the normal gearing change that people make from stock and what do you guys recommend (i.e. 1 down in the front, 2 up in the rear, etc.)? Can you guys recommend a specific chain and sprocket set as well?

Thanks!
- Elan
 

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You should go with the OEM set up that I have for sale off my '14 with only 1100 easy street miles on them.
 

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I haven't ridden Laguna on the 675 yet, but topping out 6th is not the only criteria for gearing.

How does the bike feel in the important corners, does it feel like you're in the right RPM band for the drive out?

Does it feel like you're in between gears at any point on the track?

Gearing like most things on the bike, is a compromise. I find the stock gearing on the 675 is actually pretty good overall, based on the 4 PNW and 2 NorCal tracks I've ridden.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don't like using 1st gear because I risk slipping into neutral so I use 2nd gear even coming out of tight hairpins causing me to lose drive out. It would be nice to garner more acceleration early out of 2nd gear and I think I can benefit from the same effect in 3rd gear. There are some corners where I don't want to lose time downshifting to 2nd and waiting for the rear end to settle before turning in or when I'm already leaned. It would be nice to have the usable potential of 3rd on a long drive out but also have access to its power band early.
 

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Laguna, Sonoma, Buttonwillow and even T-hill aren't very top speed oriented, so you could do -1 front or +2 rear if you plan on staying there. If you want to branch out and ride Fontana, Miller or any tracks here in the PNW, stock gearing is fine.
 

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Rental sprockets/DID ERV3 chain.

Gearing? If you don't touch 6th maybe -1,+1
 
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