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post #1 of 13 Old 07-11-18, 13:33 Thread Starter
benp
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Billet Oil Cooler Installation

At long last, I've installed my billet oil cooler from JHS and I wanted to post up how the final installation looked for reference. Recognize, of course, that my way may or may not be the best or even correct way. Also, I'd be very interested to see how others have installed theirs.

The installation overall wasn't too bad, though a bit of work just to get at a single bolt (swinging radiator out of the way, removing headers, etc.). On mine I cut off the 90 deg bend on the heat exchanger end of the short hose (T2105111). I then added in a 90 deg brass barbed elbow and a length of hose to complete the connection to the radiator. No issues so far, but the bike has only been run stationary for a number of minutes until the fan turned on then back off. I'm hoping for zero issues this weekend when its actually in use at NCBike.

In addition, there is a definite disagreement between the installation information provided by JHS and UKRS that I'd like to get to the bottom of. James Holland of JHS stated emphatically that the hoses on either side of the OEM heat exchanger should not be blocked off and should instead connect together (essentially bypassing the heat exchanger). Meanwhile, UKRS provides plugs with their oil cooler for the express purpose of plugging these hoses. So, without getting into a who-copied-who pissing match like the other thread, I would certainly appreciate some insight on the theory behind both approaches if anyone has any ideas. My feeling right now is that it really doesn't matter, b/c I haven't heard of either installation (bypass vs. plug) having issues.
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2011 Triumph Daytona 675R
2003 Kawasaki KLR650
1980 Yamaha XS850
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post #2 of 13 Old 07-11-18, 19:49
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Nice one. Mine is still sitting in the box. I figure I'll install mine when I cut the EXUP out of the headers.
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post #3 of 13 Old 07-11-18, 21:11
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Ha! Mine has been installed for months. And installed with both plumbing routines :)

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post #4 of 13 Old 07-12-18, 08:43
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UKRS specifically says you have to plug them. Iíve been running mine for a couple years plugged includingbin 100degree weather at the track without yntemp gauge going up even one bar so I assume it works.
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post #5 of 13 Old 07-12-18, 09:16
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If you connect the hoses then the part of the circuit that gets bypassed will have significantly less flow since the hoses alone will apply much less flow resistance than with the heat exchanger in its place. For this I am sure. What I have no idea about, is what exactly it bypasses. I'd love to see the topology of the oil and coolant circuits, would answer so many questions.
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post #6 of 13 Old 07-12-18, 11:51 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t_bare View Post
Ha! Mine has been installed for months. And installed with both plumbing routines :)

t_bare
What made you change plumbing techniques?

2011 Triumph Daytona 675R
2003 Kawasaki KLR650
1980 Yamaha XS850
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post #7 of 13 Old 07-12-18, 13:26 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacBandit View Post
UKRS specifically says you have to plug them. Iíve been running mine for a couple years plugged includingbin 100degree weather at the track without yntemp gauge going up even one bar so I assume it works.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but plugging the hoses forces the entirety of the water pump output through the block. This should cool the engine block more than if a portion of that water left the pump and went directly to the radiator.

By this reasoning, it would seem that plugged hoses would yield a block that is a bit cooler than stock (more water flow), while the oil is a bit hotter than stock (no heat exchanging). With the bypass, the block is likely hotter than stock (less water flow), and the oil is also hotter than stock (also no heat exchanging). Of course, all of these systems are coupled, to where all of these temperatures are functions of each other. Also, we definitely can't rule out the distinct possibility that I'm entirely full of shit.

After reconsidering this, plugging the hoses seems to make more sense to me in that I'm not intentionally diverting coolant away from the engine. That being said, though, cooler is not always better...

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post #8 of 13 Old 07-12-18, 14:40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benp View Post
What made you change plumbing techniques?
You did, you PM'd me and told me the guy that made the cooler said absolutely don't block the lines.

Also if you look at the radiator, perhaps if the lower hose is not connected, maybe, that portion of the radiator stays stagnant and thus a non cooling hotspot??

I don't know I just listen to what you said. Bike runs fine, tired of overthinking it ;)

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post #9 of 13 Old 07-14-18, 20:34
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So obviously our radiators are weird. The inlet and outlet are on the same side and the flutes run horizontal not vertical like a radiator with both on one end. So internally there must be a baffle preventing coolant from running straight down the side tank from the inlet to the outlet. . The question I have is if there is more than one baffle to make the coolant cross back across the radiator more than once. My bet is there is only a top and bottom half to the radiator. So stock the coolant comes out of the pump and into the cylinder block with a smaller portion of the pump outlet going into the the heat exchanger and directly into the lower half of the radiator where it crosses straight across and out to the pump. My bet is this design was only to help heat the oil. As it offer very little cooling. By blocking the heat exchanger line you force all the coolant into the block preventing this short circuit straight back into the pump. Also without the restriction of the heat exchanger my guess is more coolant and normal goes through this short bypass circuit and isn’t cooled properly.

This is all my educated opinion since Triumph doesn’t publish a cooling circuit diagram. However the only guess work is the radiator but it can’t be that complex.
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post #10 of 13 Old 07-17-18, 13:22 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t_bare View Post
You did, you PM'd me and told me the guy that made the cooler said absolutely don't block the lines.

Also if you look at the radiator, perhaps if the lower hose is not connected, maybe, that portion of the radiator stays stagnant and thus a non cooling hotspot??

I don't know I just listen to what you said. Bike runs fine, tired of overthinking it ;)

t_bare
Ah, fair point on that one. I'd also like to avoid overthinking it, but I'm of the type that I'd really like to figure out what is going on and it does nag me that two supposedly competent race teams have entirely opposite views on it.

So I rode Saturday and most of Sunday at NCBike in 90 degree-ish weather and the bike seemed fine. I wasn't sitting around idling and the bike was almost always moving through the air, so it may not have been a huge test of the cooling system. Either way, the bike was at 5 bars or below whenever I remembered to check it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MacBandit View Post
So obviously our radiators are weird. The inlet and outlet are on the same side and the flutes run horizontal not vertical like a radiator with both on one end. So internally there must be a baffle preventing coolant from running straight down the side tank from the inlet to the outlet. . The question I have is if there is more than one baffle to make the coolant cross back across the radiator more than once. My bet is there is only a top and bottom half to the radiator. So stock the coolant comes out of the pump and into the cylinder block with a smaller portion of the pump outlet going into the the heat exchanger and directly into the lower half of the radiator where it crosses straight across and out to the pump. My bet is this design was only to help heat the oil. As it offer very little cooling. By blocking the heat exchanger line you force all the coolant into the block preventing this short circuit straight back into the pump. Also without the restriction of the heat exchanger my guess is more coolant and normal goes through this short bypass circuit and isnít cooled properly.

This is all my educated opinion since Triumph doesnít publish a cooling circuit diagram. However the only guess work is the radiator but it canít be that complex.
That all makes pretty good sense. What we need is someone to donate a trashed radiator so we can bandsaw it in half.

2011 Triumph Daytona 675R
2003 Kawasaki KLR650
1980 Yamaha XS850
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