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APE Cam Chain Tensioners Now Available

53K views 138 replies 52 participants last post by  Clayson38 
#1 ·
Trust me, if you don't have a manual cam chain tensioner on your 675, you NEED one. The stock spring tensioner is garbage. It does not hold tension against the chain properly, which allows the chain to whip around inside the cam chain tunnel, causing noise and all sorts of mayhem when it cuts into the engine casting. (my own 675's tensioner failed in this very way) Well here is the solution, and something we have just completed testing on, a manual tensioner that will hold the chain in proper tension. As an added bonus, it is about half the price of the Triumph race kit part! Choose USPS Priority shipping and it will arrive in your mailbox in 2-3 days for only $5! They will be available for shipment starting approx. 9/12.

http://www.hordpower.com/index.php?...id=335&zenid=4659f57e549ea496a2b759bc96040095

 
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#4 ·
Quick question, once you install the new manual tensioner... How do you know what tension (how tightly) to set it at?
 
#5 ·
keep turning until it gets to hard to turn while roatating the Crank taking up all the slack you will know when its tight enough then back off 1/4 turn
 
#6 · (Edited)
Finally, APE has made a manual CCT for the 675, it was about time! I had one installed on my honda CBR F4i and it worked perfect, so this is something I am going to consider very soon.

Do you guys ship overseas as well or only within the United States?

Who would be interested for a group by since so many of us have a rattling issue?
 
#8 ·
I do ship overseas, USPS only.

Installation is an absolute breeze. Pull off the ignition cover, stick a socket in behind the chain slider to brace the chain, remove the old tensioner and insert the new. (it is sealed with an o-ring, but I also dabbed some Yamabond on the mounting flange just to be sure) As the prev. poster said, just start turning the engine over forward by hand while turning the tensioner in until it is finger snug. Then back off a little and lock it down. It took me maybe 10 minutes to install mine. The impt. thing is to brace the chain slider, or it could jump time. That'd be very bad, and very expensive.
 
#17 ·
Good question. On the racebikes I have put them on, I have not really noticed them needing any adjustment over time. (in the context of the engine getting a once-a-year rebuild) However, it wouldn't hurt to check say... once a year? I will ask APE what their recommendation is.
 
#28 ·
It is all actually a very elaborate scam, to bilk... tens... of people from their hard-earned $50.95. All run from a Nigerian internet cafe. :whistle:

The people who currently have tensioners on order will receive a small white, red and blue box in the mail around 9/17 with a manual tensioner in it. Scouts honor. :cool2:
 
#30 ·
It is all actually a very elaborate scam, to bilk... tens... of people from their hard-earned $50.95. All run from a Nigerian internet cafe. :whistle:
DAMMIT... I vouched for the wrong person... :smilielol5:
 
#43 ·
A tech note: Make sure you swap the o-ring from the stock tensioner to the new APE tensioner.
this is what I was about to ask... thanks for the fast shipping..... I noticed a groove on it without an O-ring.... looked like something belongs there. Good quality by the way... only thing is I thought these were suppose to have yamabond?? if not could you recomend where I could get some?? thanks.
 
#41 ·
Not avail until the 18th???
I ordered on Friday and it shipped on Friday... Jeez, some folks just can't use a calendar correctly!!! :cool2:
Thanx Guys!!
 
#44 ·
Nope, they don't come with any sealer, the o-ring is what seals things. I just put a dab of Yamabond on the face of the mounting flange for sealing insurance, totally optional. You can get it at any Yamaha dealer or just go to the auto store and get Three Bond gray.
 
#46 ·
take off RHS engine cover and get a socket to turn the big nut and turn that at the same time as u turn the cam chain tensioner
 
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