Another Daytona that refuses to start - Triumph675.Net Forums
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post #1 of 25 Old 11-16-19, 13:28 Thread Starter
Geoffrey
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Another Daytona that refuses to start

Hello everyone,
As the title says... The other day, I wanted to go for a ride and the bike cranks but couldn't fire. I finally bump started it after minutes and rode it. But it happens again, when the bike is cold. So after guidance found on the forum, I started to troubleshoot. I took the power voltage from the battery and read over 13.3V (see attached). When it cranks voltage drops to about 11 something. It doesn't look like the battery is not capable, and I bought it recently (please check the attached video).
I checked the various switches, they are fine. Plugged Tuneecu, nothing that I noticed, no error codes. I tested through the software the fuel pump, seems it's fine too. Since my Daytona is from 2008 I thought about R/R, stator, CPS which I believe have never be replaced. I checked the CPS resistance and read 0.585 Mohms. Is it a normal value? I saw somewhere that it shall be 200 (ohms)? I feel confused. Also I thought the CPS fails when the engine is hot, but for me it is the other way around, because once, after I bump started the bike, I killed the engine and turn it on and I can start it again without a problem!

Thanks a lot!
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post #2 of 25 Old 11-16-19, 18:48
jonnytriple
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Hi, what s the meaning of CPS resistance?
Sorry but I'm Italian and I'm curious...

Inviato dal mio Redmi 3 utilizzando Tapatalk
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post #3 of 25 Old 11-16-19, 20:06
High on Octane
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Sounds like your battery is a dead duck. It should NOT be dropping below 12.2 volts while cranking. It appears the voltage while cranking is dropping below a level where the ECU is unable to function due to low voltage, thus, likely not giving you spark. The reason it is bump starting is because the voltage is over 12 volts when bumping it. Once it's been running/charging it has just enough voltage to restart. Take the battery out and have it load testing and I can almost guarantee it fails.

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post #4 of 25 Old 11-17-19, 02:16 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnytriple View Post
Hi, what s the meaning of CPS resistance?
Sorry but I'm Italian and I'm curious...

Inviato dal mio Redmi 3 utilizzando Tapatalk
No problem. Its Crank Position Sensor, it is located near the stator. I understand we can check if it's healthy or not by checking the resistance at both poles on the connector located underneath the fuel tank. It took a picture of it.
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post #5 of 25 Old 11-17-19, 02:21 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by High on Octane View Post
Sounds like your battery is a dead duck. It should NOT be dropping below 12.2 volts while cranking. It appears the voltage while cranking is dropping below a level where the ECU is unable to function due to low voltage, thus, likely not giving you spark. The reason it is bump starting is because the voltage is over 12 volts when bumping it. Once it's been running/charging it has just enough voltage to restart. Take the battery out and have it load testing and I can almost guarantee it fails.
Hi buddy. That sounds right, but I feel pissed because I keep having batteries issues. I fully recharged it and will give it another try. Then I'll probably follow your recommendation, although I'm not sure how this test can be done. That sounds like I have problem with stator or R/R at the end. Sounds like lot of expenses to come as well, changing battery, stator, R/R,...
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post #6 of 25 Old 11-17-19, 03:36
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Yes, your CPS resistance is way too high. It's bad. Get your stator from ricksmotorsportelectrics.com along with a stator cover gasket for $200. Sucks to pay for it but it's definitely your CPS with that resistance. You'd be smart to upgrade your R/R and fix any wiring while you're at it.
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post #7 of 25 Old 11-17-19, 11:13 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reroll View Post
Yes, your CPS resistance is way too high. It's bad. Get your stator from ricksmotorsportelectrics.com along with a stator cover gasket for $200. Sucks to pay for it but it's definitely your CPS with that resistance. You'd be smart to upgrade your R/R and fix any wiring while you're at it.
Thanks Reroll for the suggestion. Well like many have suggested on this forum I'd stick with OE stuff. For the R/R I realised that the one fitted has PN FH012AB, so it seems that's the one after the recall, so it should be good I guess.
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post #8 of 25 Old 11-17-19, 12:09
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reroll View Post
Yes, your CPS resistance is way too high. It's bad. Get your stator from ricksmotorsportelectrics.com along with a stator cover gasket for $200. Sucks to pay for it but it's definitely your CPS with that resistance. You'd be smart to upgrade your R/R and fix any wiring while you're at it.
Interesting... So, if the CPS reads high it's an indicator the stator is over-charging?

I guess this would make sense for the continued multiple battery failures. It's very possible they are getting cooked, hence the high voltage at key off and low voltage at crank.

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post #9 of 25 Old 11-17-19, 20:48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by High on Octane View Post
Interesting... So, if the CPS reads high it's an indicator the stator is over-charging?

I guess this would make sense for the continued multiple battery failures. It's very possible they are getting cooked, hence the high voltage at key off and low voltage at crank.
The battery, and most likely the stator, are fine assuming it was charging before his symptoms occurred. The problem with the CPS is that it is hard wired to the stator, meaning they must be replaced together. However, British electronics of this era are not known for there robustness, so I'd recommend he fixes the charging system before his stator inevitably fries at some point and he ends up replacing it again.
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post #10 of 25 Old 11-18-19, 03:33 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by High on Octane View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reroll View Post
Yes, your CPS resistance is way too high. It's bad. Get your stator from ricksmotorsportelectrics.com along with a stator cover gasket for $200. Sucks to pay for it but it's definitely your CPS with that resistance. You'd be smart to upgrade your R/R and fix any wiring while you're at it.
Interesting... So, if the CPS reads high it's an indicator the stator is over-charging?

I guess this would make sense for the continued multiple battery failures. It's very possible they are getting cooked, hence the high voltage at key off and low voltage at crank.
Low voltage at crank is normal as it pumps power. After checking online it seems the ~11V voltage at crank is good and it's only a concern if it drops below 10V.
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