2008 Triumph Daytona 675 Won't Start at All/Turn On - Page 3 - Triumph675.Net Forums
Maintenance and repair Problems, fixes, general maintenance talk

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post #21 of 39 Old 12-07-17, 22:55
TwistyWristy
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Originally Posted by gabego16 View Post
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Originally Posted by Cab0oze View Post
Good, now you've ruled out that it is anything else in the motorcycle's electrical system. The problem is either the battery post connections, the battery's ground, or the battery itself (would be the weirdest battery failure I've ever seen), which is still under warranty. All of those items should take <5 minutes to check, and won't cost you a penny to fix.
My money's on the ground.

Also mods, I know you're reading this, thanks a lot for deleting all of my posts, you're a bunch of dicks. If you have a problem with me or my posts, for some ridiculous reason, shoot me a PM and let's sort it out, or I'll stop trying to contribute to your floundering community.

Ok, from experience troubleshooting computers, this is the second battery that this bike is on in a short amount of time doing the same thing. So after swapping out the battery from the old one I thought this issue might not be the battery, but hey I could very well be wrong.

I went back out and jumped the bike and let it sit for 10 min on the jumper. The bike turned on with dash lights and everything no problem however when I tried to start it (holding the clutch in like a common sense person would do) the engine would sound like It was about to start not clicks but just kept the first chucks before the engine actually starts running (kind of sounds like coughing for a car). After I disconnected it from the jumper cables the lights faded out like the battery died or something. Not just a quick off, I literally saw the lights go from bright to dim to off gradually.

So I believe you when it say it might be grounding but someone else suggested that the stator might be bad. Do you think it could be that?

All this aside dude you're awesome, thanks for putting up with me and these questions and anyone else contributing as well. Getting this bike I was just expecting to ride it but I've been learning a lot just from this thread. Thanks for taking time out of your day. Much appreciated.
Yeah like I mentioned in my last post itís probably a bad stator/regulator/rectifier.

Like a car, if the battery is new and has a lot of charge but the power isnít holding and the car dies the problem usually is the alternator, since that is the part that keeps the charge going through the car. If the alternator goes out then you will have the same issue your are experiencing with your bike.

Hope that helps.

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post #22 of 39 Old 12-08-17, 07:55
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Originally Posted by TwistyWristy View Post
Yeah like I mentioned in my last post it’s probably a bad stator/regulator/rectifier.

Like a car, if the battery is new and has a lot of charge but the power isn’t holding and the car dies the problem usually is the alternator, since that is the part that keeps the charge going through the car. If the alternator goes out then you will have the same issue your are experiencing with your bike.

Hope that helps.
The reason I'm almost positive it's not the alternator, is he had the same "electrical fade-out" when the bike wasn't started. I'm positive this has nothing to do with the battery not re-charging. Well I mean there is that too, but it's not recharging because of one of the connections on the battery, or the battery itself, not because of a stator/regulator/rectifier.

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Originally Posted by gabego16 View Post
Ok, from experience troubleshooting computers, this is the second battery that this bike is on in a short amount of time doing the same thing. So after swapping out the battery from the old one I thought this issue might not be the battery, but hey I could very well be wrong.

I went back out and jumped the bike and let it sit for 10 min on the jumper. The bike turned on with dash lights and everything no problem however when I tried to start it (holding the clutch in like a common sense person would do) the engine would sound like It was about to start not clicks but just kept the first chucks before the engine actually starts running (kind of sounds like coughing for a car). After I disconnected it from the jumper cables the lights faded out like the battery died or something. Not just a quick off, I literally saw the lights go from bright to dim to off gradually.

So I believe you when it say it might be grounding but someone else suggested that the stator might be bad. Do you think it could be that?

All this aside dude you're awesome, thanks for putting up with me and these questions and anyone else contributing as well. Getting this bike I was just expecting to ride it but I've been learning a lot just from this thread. Thanks for taking time out of your day. Much appreciated.
Thanks, and hope you get to the bottom of this soon. See what I wrote above this re: the stator. I'm also pretty convinced that grounding isn't your issue after giving it more thought. If grounding was an issue, I'm not sure jumping the bike would have worked (unless it was the ground at the battery terminal itself, and I'm assuming you've checked that). I think the most likely problem is that your brand new battery is a dud, despite it showing that it's got good charge. Thinking back, 10 years ago I had my car battery die. I replaced it, everything worked "great" for a couple weeks and then it started dying as well, giving me all sorts of weird electrical problems. I took it back and it "tested" good (which means it was probably showing voltage, as you were seeing. I don't remember if I tested it myself) and I yelled at them till they gave me a new one, and then all my problems went away.

Hopefully you bought the battery locally so that it's an easy exchange...

Last edited by Cab0oze; 12-08-17 at 08:04.
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post #23 of 39 Old 12-08-17, 19:43 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Cab0oze View Post
The reason I'm almost positive it's not the alternator, is he had the same "electrical fade-out" when the bike wasn't started. I'm positive this has nothing to do with the battery not re-charging. Well I mean there is that too, but it's not recharging because of one of the connections on the battery, or the battery itself, not because of a stator/regulator/rectifier.


Thanks, and hope you get to the bottom of this soon. See what I wrote above this re: the stator. I'm also pretty convinced that grounding isn't your issue after giving it more thought. If grounding was an issue, I'm not sure jumping the bike would have worked (unless it was the ground at the battery terminal itself, and I'm assuming you've checked that). I think the most likely problem is that your brand new battery is a dud, despite it showing that it's got good charge. Thinking back, 10 years ago I had my car battery die. I replaced it, everything worked "great" for a couple weeks and then it started dying as well, giving me all sorts of weird electrical problems. I took it back and it "tested" good (which means it was probably showing voltage, as you were seeing. I don't remember if I tested it myself) and I yelled at them till they gave me a new one, and then all my problems went away.

Hopefully you bought the battery locally so that it's an easy exchange...
You don't think it's the stator/regulator/rectifier? I've heard that when it's a bad stator it has the same symptoms as a bad battery.

Do you mind explaining what you mean when you say "unless it was the round at the battery terminal itself" how would I check that? It looks correct to me.
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post #24 of 39 Old 12-08-17, 22:23
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Originally Posted by gabego16 View Post
You don't think it's the stator/regulator/rectifier? I've heard that when it's a bad stator it has the same symptoms as a bad battery.

Do you mind explaining what you mean when you say "unless it was the round at the battery terminal itself" how would I check that? It looks correct to me.
The stator/regulator/rectifier are all part of the alternator/charging system. Basically when the engine is running it generates electricity (DC thanks to the rectifier) to charge the battery. You're correct in saying that a bad stator (or any of those other components) would have the same effect as a bad battery, but that (as far as I know) only applies to (1) the battery not recharging while riding = dead battery or (2) weird electrical transients during periods of high electrical demand, but this only really applies to cars. An example would be if you have a bad alternator, and you try to use your steering wheel at low speed, if you have electrically boosted power steering your lights will all dim and gauges will go crazy because your battery can't handle that much load all at once. I don't think motorcycles electrical needs are as high as cars, so I'm not sure if there would be any similar effects. But anyhow, I digress, your problem has nothing to do with the alternator, because your battery cannot even power the lights with the engine off despite it showing that it is fully charged (which it wouldn't if your alternator was dead and the battery was never recharging), i.e. the alternator isn't even part of the equation. That being said, I guess you could have a bad battery AND a bad alternator, but let's sort one issue out at a time lol

As for your second question, I have tomorrow off, I'll try to take a picture of what you need to check in terms of connections.
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post #25 of 39 Old 12-09-17, 16:42
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After going through the new info, I have changed my mind. :lol Now, most of my experience is with GSXRs (had two, raced one) and their charging system (06 was a shit year for GSXR electronics), but I feel that I am pretty versed in gremlin-sorting (experience AND formal education). I will be pm'ing you scans of the 4 pages out of the Factory Service Manual WRT the r/r and stator tests for you to do, but I will give a quick rundown here. If any of the manual's instructions are unclear or too complicated, feel free to ask questions.

If you have a battery with 13.7V with the key off, I ask that you test it with the key ON. Wait a few seconds after you turn the key because there will be electrical systems that will draw current for a few seconds and that will give you a skewed result. If, after a few seconds you see low voltage, like 11/12V or lower- problem solved- you have a ground fault. If after turning the key and you test voltage and it's still 13 or more, we can look to the charging system. I disagree with the people that negate a ground fault because it runs whilst hooked-up to a car battery because the car's charging system can make up for a fault to an extent.

Basically, the long and short of it is that your bike wants to draw current from wherever it can. Headlights, ECU, fuel pump, etc. all need the juice for the bike to run. At idle, a sportbike draws current from BOTH the battery and the charge system. This is due to two things, principally. First, the size of the stator, and second, the RPM range of the bike is harder to rectify because or the rotation of the rotor varies so much. Most sportbikes' stators do not produce the voltage/current needed to run the bike at idle, in fact, most take up to 1/3 redline before they do. The 675's stator makes over 13V at around 2000 rpm. At lower rpm, there is lower voltage, but it ADDS to the battery voltage so if your battery is at 13V, the stator can and will add 1.4 volts on top of that, since 14.4 is the regulated maximum). Basically, the crux of that paragraph is that your bike won't run on stator power alone til over 2000 rpm.

Given that your stator can make enough juice for your bike to run at 2000 rpm, if you jump it from a car and take it up to 2000 and disconnect the jumpers, your bike should run. If it doesn't run, then it means ground fault or stator issue. Follow the FSM pages i gave you to test all of that.

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post #26 of 39 Old 12-10-17, 15:42 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by macbayne View Post
After going through the new info, I have changed my mind. :lol Now, most of my experience is with GSXRs (had two, raced one) and their charging system (06 was a shit year for GSXR electronics), but I feel that I am pretty versed in gremlin-sorting (experience AND formal education). I will be pm'ing you scans of the 4 pages out of the Factory Service Manual WRT the r/r and stator tests for you to do, but I will give a quick rundown here. If any of the manual's instructions are unclear or too complicated, feel free to ask questions.

If you have a battery with 13.7V with the key off, I ask that you test it with the key ON. Wait a few seconds after you turn the key because there will be electrical systems that will draw current for a few seconds and that will give you a skewed result. If, after a few seconds you see low voltage, like 11/12V or lower- problem solved- you have a ground fault. If after turning the key and you test voltage and it's still 13 or more, we can look to the charging system. I disagree with the people that negate a ground fault because it runs whilst hooked-up to a car battery because the car's charging system can make up for a fault to an extent.

Basically, the long and short of it is that your bike wants to draw current from wherever it can. Headlights, ECU, fuel pump, etc. all need the juice for the bike to run. At idle, a sportbike draws current from BOTH the battery and the charge system. This is due to two things, principally. First, the size of the stator, and second, the RPM range of the bike is harder to rectify because or the rotation of the rotor varies so much. Most sportbikes' stators do not produce the voltage/current needed to run the bike at idle, in fact, most take up to 1/3 redline before they do. The 675's stator makes over 13V at around 2000 rpm. At lower rpm, there is lower voltage, but it ADDS to the battery voltage so if your battery is at 13V, the stator can and will add 1.4 volts on top of that, since 14.4 is the regulated maximum). Basically, the crux of that paragraph is that your bike won't run on stator power alone til over 2000 rpm.

Given that your stator can make enough juice for your bike to run at 2000 rpm, if you jump it from a car and take it up to 2000 and disconnect the jumpers, your bike should run. If it doesn't run, then it means ground fault or stator issue. Follow the FSM pages i gave you to test all of that.


Before I go test these pieces of advice. I just wanted to put out that I came across this video talking about stator troubleshooting and symptoms.


The part I found weird was he was able to turn his bike on no issues. The only issues were that the engine wouldn't fire but it would crank. While my bike's issue is not being able to turn on at all unless hooked up to a car via jumper cables, however when the bike is hooked up to jumper cables and can turn on the bike does the exact same thing that guy in the video shows. It will crank but not fire.

Hopefully that helps the guessing game but until them I'm going to go test the batter once more.
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post #27 of 39 Old 12-11-17, 15:52
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So it won't crank without being jumped... can you remove the battery and try someone else's. Yeah, if it won't even crank, there is a short/ground or its a bad battery. Stator has nothing to do with cranking.

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post #28 of 39 Old 12-11-17, 18:47 Thread Starter
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So it won't crank without being jumped... can you remove the battery and try someone else's. Yeah, if it won't even crank, there is a short/ground or its a bad battery. Stator has nothing to do with cranking.


Alright so after testing the battery yesterday I noted that the battery now sat at the voltage of 6.6 and no longer 13 volts. I then returned the battery I purchased with a new battery and installed it. Voila the bike turned on when I turned the key and even was able to fire the engine and go for a ride. I thought that was the end of my problems but today in the morning before work I tried to turn on the bike to see if it would fire and all I got was lights on a the dash and cranking of the engine as the video shows. I was told that the regulator/rectifier was an issue on these bikes. It seems like something is draining my battery.
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post #29 of 39 Old 12-11-17, 19:51
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Originally Posted by macbayne View Post
So it won't crank without being jumped... can you remove the battery and try someone else's. Yeah, if it won't even crank, there is a short/ground or its a bad battery. Stator has nothing to do with cranking.


Alright so after testing the battery yesterday I noted that the battery now sat at the voltage of 6.6 and no longer 13 volts. I then returned the battery I purchased with a new battery and installed it. Voila the bike turned on when I turned the key and even was able to fire the engine and go for a ride. I thought that was the end of my problems but today in the morning before work I tried to turn on the bike to see if it would fire and all I got was lights on a the dash and cranking of the engine as the video shows. I was told that the regulator/rectifier was an issue on these bikes. It seems like something is draining my battery.
As another poster said, one problem at a time which is correct. Itís very unlikely now to say that itís a battery issue since every battery out there cannot be a bad one. So rule that out.

Have you thought of bringing the bike to get diagnosed at a shop? The ECU might tell you something specific.

My bet is still on the regulator/rectifier/stator being the issue.

Keep us posted man. GL

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post #30 of 39 Old 12-11-17, 21:39
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Did it ever get the r/r recall work done?

https://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=65761
http://www.triumphmotorcycles.com/safety-recall-search

Chris from NYC
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