Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: edmonton AB
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After going through the new info, I have changed my mind. :lol Now, most of my experience is with GSXRs (had two, raced one) and their charging system (06 was a shit year for GSXR electronics), but I feel that I am pretty versed in gremlin-sorting (experience AND formal education). I will be pm'ing you scans of the 4 pages out of the Factory Service Manual WRT the r/r and stator tests for you to do, but I will give a quick rundown here. If any of the manual's instructions are unclear or too complicated, feel free to ask questions.
If you have a battery with 13.7V with the key off, I ask that you test it with the key ON. Wait a few seconds after you turn the key because there will be electrical systems that will draw current for a few seconds and that will give you a skewed result. If, after a few seconds you see low voltage, like 11/12V or lower- problem solved- you have a ground fault. If after turning the key and you test voltage and it's still 13 or more, we can look to the charging system. I disagree with the people that negate a ground fault because it runs whilst hooked-up to a car battery because the car's charging system can make up for a fault to an extent.
Basically, the long and short of it is that your bike wants to draw current from wherever it can. Headlights, ECU, fuel pump, etc. all need the juice for the bike to run. At idle, a sportbike draws current from BOTH the battery and the charge system. This is due to two things, principally. First, the size of the stator, and second, the RPM range of the bike is harder to rectify because or the rotation of the rotor varies so much. Most sportbikes' stators do not produce the voltage/current needed to run the bike at idle, in fact, most take up to 1/3 redline before they do. The 675's stator makes over 13V at around 2000 rpm. At lower rpm, there is lower voltage, but it ADDS to the battery voltage so if your battery is at 13V, the stator can and will add 1.4 volts on top of that, since 14.4 is the regulated maximum). Basically, the crux of that paragraph is that your bike won't run on stator power alone til over 2000 rpm.
Given that your stator can make enough juice for your bike to run at 2000 rpm, if you jump it from a car and take it up to 2000 and disconnect the jumpers, your bike should run. If it doesn't run, then it means ground fault or stator issue. Follow the FSM pages i gave you to test all of that.
"if you're gonna take bets, the orca is shit and the alligator will win every time."