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post #1 of 7 Old 08-07-20, 09:26 Thread Starter
dziste
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Exclamation HELP Issue with daytona 675r

Hi guys,

I joined this forum to see if you guys can help me up with my issue.
I live in Canada, I have a Triumph Daytona 675R 2011. Its my first bike, and love it.

So my issue :

Two weeks ago, i had problem with starting my bike. I changed my stator (rmstator) and my R/R (mosfet). Yesterday, i did a quick ride, stopped to eat and bike didnt want to start again. Cranks but nothing, I had to boost it so I can take it back home.

What the issue could be now after changing Stator and R/R ? Connectors? Starter solenoid? Relay? Crank position sensor (cps) ?

Everytime i turn it on now, i pray it turns on.. starting to get tired

Thank you for any help, and happy to join this community!

Here is a picture of my bike :

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post #2 of 7 Old 08-07-20, 13:01
MaDgamEr
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Sounds pretty simple, but if the boost helped then your battery is the likely culprit. What voltage are you getting across your battery on and the bike at idle and 5k rpm?

Fellow Canuck btw... Where abouts are ya?

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post #3 of 7 Old 08-07-20, 14:25 Thread Starter
dziste
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaDgamEr View Post
Sounds pretty simple, but if the boost helped then your battery is the likely culprit. What voltage are you getting across your battery on and the bike at idle and 5k rpm?

Fellow Canuck btw... Where abouts are ya?

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Didnt test voltage yet but battery is new, has been changed 1 month ago

I live in Montreal
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post #4 of 7 Old 08-07-20, 19:27
Renboy
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Even new parts can be defective. Charge the battery, then check the voltage when sitting, during starting, and while idling. Could be any one of the three parts you replaced. Could just be the connection from the stator to the reg/rec (that left me stranded once).

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post #5 of 7 Old 08-07-20, 20:42
jdgun_13
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Not going to preach, but get the maintenance manual, and do some testing with an OHM meter, will save you time and money, vs throwing parts at something.

Your battery could be shot, especially if it was drained to many times, or overcharged.

As mentioned check the voltage at idle and 5k.. also make sure when resting you are sitting at 13.8 volts, as this bike needs 12.2 volts if i recall for the ecu to actually work and start the bike.

Most of you people are not capable of being your GD self, to damn worried about being politically correct.

2011- Triumph Daytona 675R
2005- Kawasaki ZX-10R
2003- Kawasaki ZX-6RR
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post #6 of 7 Old 08-08-20, 08:34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdgun_13 View Post
also make sure when resting you are sitting at 13.8 volts
Typo? I'm fairly certain a 6-cell lead-acid battery tops out at 12.8v.

Quote:
as this bike needs 12.2 volts if i recall for the ecu to actually work and start the bike.
That's seriously bad design, if true. IMHO. It doesn't take much to draw the battery down to 11 or even 10v while cranking.

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post #7 of 7 Old 08-08-20, 08:53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TTRIgnitionSystems View Post
Typo? I'm fairly certain a 6-cell lead-acid battery tops out at 12.8v.


That's seriously bad design, if true. IMHO. It doesn't take much to draw the battery down to 11 or even 10v while cranking.
Battery should be receiving approx 13.5-14.4V from the rectifier while the engine is running. A healthy, charged battery sitting at rest should be 12.2-12.4V.

Battery under load should not drop below 12V. If it does, it's worn out and failing.

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