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rebound damping screw loose ? hard rebound damping ?

4K views 12 replies 4 participants last post by  MGFChapin 
#1 · (Edited)
got my forks back from the shop ... had the seals replaced.
...
now, after putting the bike back together, something is wrong ?

REBOUND damping is super hard
... it now has only 7 clicks of rebound damping adjustment available.
Before, it was set at 9 clicks out ... pretty sure it had much more than 9 clicks available
(how many clicks of rebound damping adjustment does a 2006 triumph 675 have ?)

In addition, the adjuster screw is "loose" .... I can pull it out and easily move it up and down ....
... was it always this way ? is it supposed to be ? See pics .... second pic is before removing forks ....
... first pic is after seal replacement - rebound adjuster screw can easily move up and down ...

Any idea what the mechanic did wrong ? can they fix it without removing the forks ?

Can I safely drive it on the freeway for 25 miles to take it to them ? ... or do i have to take the front end completely apart again ?

just saw this in mgfchapin's fork seal post:
". I know the factory manual says to fill to 72mm but the first time I changed my fork oil I filled to that level and the bike was un-ridable because the forks would hardly compress. I gradually took out fluid and it started to feel good again at 110mm. I have since learned that Dave Moss recommends a level of 110mm and Thermosman (the East Coast suspension guru and one of the heads of Ohlins USA) recommends 120mm in our forks."

this sounds like how my forks are behaving .... i can hardly compress them ...
.... the mechanic was told 115 mm ... I wonder what he set it at ...
 
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#6 ·
Thank you !

... do the forks have to be removed to fix the incorrect damping rod install ?

... if not, is it safe for me to ride it to the shop ?
Do not ride the bike. The rod that controls the oil flow inside of the valve is not installed correctly. Remove both forks again and have them look both over, its possible you have internal damage now and that will need to be fixed but you have to have them pulled apart and inspected.
 
#8 ·
rebound screw moves up and down ?

Thank you again for all the help guys !
....
Just to be sure (before i speak with the mech) ... the rebound adjuster screw is not upposed to be able to "move up and down freely" by grabbing it with my fingers and pulling it up and down about an 8th of an inch ? (as shown in the two pics)
 
#10 ·
again, Thank You !
...
Your assessments of this problem were basically spot on .... Even though I brought my forks to them initially, my mech came by on Sunday, checked my bike, saw that something wasn't right and said he would take it back to his shop, take it apart, and fix it ... which he did ! (no charge)
... again, symptoms were hard forks, and rebound screw limited to seven clicks (when it was 18 or before) .... Turns out, you must tighten (loosen ? ... not sure which way i heard) the rebound damping screw fully before adjusting the lock nut on the rebound damping rod. After the mech did this, forks are fine, eighteen clicks of rebound damping adjustment, and no more stiff forks ... i will re-check all torques, and take her for a test ride soon.
 
#13 ·
Turns out, you must tighten (loosen ? ... not sure which way i heard) the rebound damping screw fully before adjusting the lock nut on the rebound damping rod. After the mech did this, forks are fine, eighteen clicks of rebound damping adjustment, and no more stiff forks ... i will re-check all torques, and take her for a test ride soon.
You screw in the rebound adjuster 3.5 turns, seat the cap onto the lock nut, back the rebound adjuster all the way off and then torque the nut. Should've had your mechanic read my how-to :wink3:

Glad you got it sorted.
 
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