HOW TO: Chain Adjustment - Page 8 - Triumph675.Net Forums
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post #71 of 86 Old 08-04-16, 07:11
bsegel007
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great information! Thank you!

I really appreciate this thread/instructional since i am a relatively new D675 owner. 1 year and 4 months now. I'm going to tackle this important maintenence task later today while i have my fairings off and before i install my GB Racing protection kit!
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post #72 of 86 Old 02-06-17, 11:55
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Good write up regarding one of the most overlooked maintenance areas of motorcycle ownership. I'm sure others have mentioned, chain alignment is critical, more so probably than tension/slack adjustments. I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/PROFI-CAT-SPE...alignment+tool

Note that the current price is about double what they normally go for, so I'd recommend shopping around a little ($55-70 seems to be the sweet spot).

===
2016 675R (track-only)
OPRT | NWXPDTN
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post #73 of 86 Old 02-06-17, 16:13
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i use a chain monkey tensioner and motion pro alignment tool.


https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08...alignment+tool
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post #74 of 86 Old 02-06-17, 16:18
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Too much trouble and waste of time guys. I've owned the above tools, including a trammel to measure the pivot-to-axle distance. At the end of the day, just maintain decent slack (on the loose side) and keep the chain clean and there's no reason to not get 25,000 or more miles out of a chain. I got about 30,000 out of my last chain and it was just starting to stretch. Just maintained slack and clean (kerosene) & lube (DuPont Chain Saver or Wax). If you keep it clean & lubed, you will rarely have to adjust it.
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post #75 of 86 Old 02-07-17, 23:25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neanderthal View Post
Too much trouble and waste of time guys. I've owned the above tools, including a trammel to measure the pivot-to-axle distance. At the end of the day, just maintain decent slack (on the loose side) and keep the chain clean and there's no reason to not get 25,000 or more miles out of a chain. I got about 30,000 out of my last chain and it was just starting to stretch. Just maintained slack and clean (kerosene) & lube (DuPont Chain Saver or Wax). If you keep it clean & lubed, you will rarely have to adjust it.
All of this is true! I have 17000+ miles on my stock chain from the day I rolled her off the floor at 2 miles! Kerosene and lube. I lube every 200 miles and clean every 600 miles or when it gets dirty.

1997 YZF100R/Thunderace - She committed suicide 15Mar07!
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post #76 of 86 Old 02-17-17, 16:12
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So I've been doing a lot of reading (new to this forum and bike) and just finished trying to adjust my chain slack. However, I ended up making unequal adjustments based on those little hash marks and now I'm worried that it's not perfectly straight. Is there an easy way to get it back on track? I've made little adjustments to try to make the sides equal. On the other hand, it sounds like some of you are saying as long as there is a decent amount of slack it should be fine?

Thanks
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post #77 of 86 Old 07-11-17, 16:38
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new owner and still confused

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bamboo671 View Post
So I did this again last night and the difference in slack is crazy! First off I was doing the chain adjustment based on the first post. I started to read the rest of the posts and went and did it a different route. This is what I did:

I enrolled the help of my wife and she rolled the bike forward and backward for me to see where the tightest spot on the chain was. She didn't sit on the bike and roll it but rather stood in front of the handlebars and walked backwards holding the bike upright. Once I found the spot with the least amount of slack, I put it on the side stand. Oddly enough the spot of tightness is the same whether you check it on a stand and roll the wheel or have someone roll the bike for you. I stood the bike upright by using a 2x4 under the side stand. I then measured the chain by pushing down and annotating that number and pushing the chain upward and then annotating that number as well. I took the two numbers and subtracted them and that was the amount of freeplay I had. To my surprise it was 87mm and some change! So I went through the process of tightening the chain as described in the original post and then re-measured when I got both chain adjusters equal. I re-measured the slack again pushing down and annotating that number and then again pushing up for that number. My chain slack is now 35mm and some change!

I was very hesitant riding with this new adjustment since I've been adjusting my chain the "old" way but after I took her for a ride it made a huge difference. More so a difference in a slight vibration I was feeling and faint noise I was hearing. It's gone now and I assume it's because I adjusted the chain in this manner. Just my two pennies but I wanted to share it with you all. Again, I know this thread has been dead for almost a year now and I'm sorry for bringing it back to life!

dragging an old post out but just needed to clarify. after placing the 2x4 under the side stand making the bike upright, and measuring freeplay/slack, is the bike in neutral or in gear? This makes a huge difference in the way I've been checking my bike because leaving it in gear and removing the slack off the top part of the chain while checking the bottom part is a different reading than leaving it in neutral and checking the bottom of the chain on the side stand.

I'm asking cuz the difference between the two methods are very significant. When I check the chain in gear with the top of the chain super tight leaving the bottom more loose it appears to be within spec... if i walk up to the bike (parked) in neutral, on the side stand and check the chain its out of spec.

Philip F.
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post #78 of 86 Old 07-11-17, 20:58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pohatuxl View Post
dragging an old post out but just needed to clarify. after placing the 2x4 under the side stand making the bike upright, and measuring freeplay/slack, is the bike in neutral or in gear? This makes a huge difference in the way I've been checking my bike because leaving it in gear and removing the slack off the top part of the chain while checking the bottom part is a different reading than leaving it in neutral and checking the bottom of the chain on the side stand.

I'm asking cuz the difference between the two methods are very significant. When I check the chain in gear with the top of the chain super tight leaving the bottom more loose it appears to be within spec... if i walk up to the bike (parked) in neutral, on the side stand and check the chain its out of spec.
Check it with the bike upright, rather than resting the sidestand. When you're riding the bike it'll be upright. That's what you want to adjust for.
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post #79 of 86 Old 07-11-17, 21:01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phicurious86 View Post
Check it with the bike upright, rather than resting the sidestand. When you're riding the bike it'll be upright. That's what you want to adjust for.
Also, whether it's in gear or not doesn't matter.
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post #80 of 86 Old 07-11-17, 21:19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phicurious86 View Post
Also, whether it's in gear or not doesn't matter.
great! thanks for clarifying that! I will soon be making an adjustment then.

Philip F.
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