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post #21 of 38 Old 05-07-19, 19:13
MadMel
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Yep, Monday was my first day on the track since replacing the CPS, and the problem was solved. A CPS that fails the ohm test is definitely bad, but it can also be bad without failing the ohm test.
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post #22 of 38 Old 05-08-19, 00:56 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MadMel View Post
Yep, Monday was my first day on the track since replacing the CPS, and the problem was solved. A CPS that fails the ohm test is definitely bad, but it can also be bad without failing the ohm test.
Since it comes pre-assembled with the stator, did you replace the stator as well? If so, did you use OEM or aftermarket like ricks?
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post #23 of 38 Old 05-08-19, 00:59
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I have the same problem - also with a 2011. It basically sticks at 1900-2100 RPM. I have to really open the throttle to move past that point, and then (with the throttle at 40-50%), the bike surges. It makes it almost impossible to ride in the city, and it's been in and out of a shop for the last year trying to find the issue.

So far they've tried checking the tune, sparkplugs, cleaning the injectors, and cleaning the throttle bodies.



No improvement, so I've taken it to another shop - I'll report in if the new shop is able to isolate and fix the issue.
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post #24 of 38 Old 05-08-19, 09:54 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by proteus View Post
I have the same problem - also with a 2011. It basically sticks at 1900-2100 RPM. I have to really open the throttle to move past that point, and then (with the throttle at 40-50%), the bike surges. It makes it almost impossible to ride in the city, and it's been in and out of a shop for the last year trying to find the issue.

So far they've tried checking the tune, sparkplugs, cleaning the injectors, and cleaning the throttle bodies.



No improvement, so I've taken it to another shop - I'll report in if the new shop is able to isolate and fix the issue.
Thats exactly what im experiencing. The bike is almost unridable and i took it to the dealer with no avail. initially they said that they could not replicate the problem (hard to believe unless they were revving the bike as if it was on a race track...) then i had to get there in person to physically show them. The mechanic checked the throttle bodies and calibrated them, checked the fuel filter and basically could not find the cause of it. Now i have the bike at home and took it all apart. So far I discovered that one of the three vacuum hoses coming from the throttle bodies was missing a clamp (but i doubt thats the problem). Since I removed the throttle bodies, i decided to do the valve clearances as well as i could hear some valve ticking (the bike has 20k miles).
Honestly, I think that MadMel (see above) has the answer. It all seems to be pointing to the CPS, especially since I replaced it with ricks like a year ago.
I will keep you guys updated. And yes if you are currently experiencing or have experienced a similar issue, please keep me updated as well. Thanks.
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post #25 of 38 Old 05-08-19, 10:03 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by proteus View Post
I have the same problem - also with a 2011. It basically sticks at 1900-2100 RPM. I have to really open the throttle to move past that point, and then (with the throttle at 40-50%), the bike surges. It makes it almost impossible to ride in the city, and it's been in and out of a shop for the last year trying to find the issue.

So far they've tried checking the tune, sparkplugs, cleaning the injectors, and cleaning the throttle bodies.



No improvement, so I've taken it to another shop - I'll report in if the new shop is able to isolate and fix the issue.
Thats exactly what im experiencing. The bike is almost unridable and i took it to the dealer with no avail. initially they said that they could not replicate the problem (hard to believe unless they were revving the bike as if it was on a race track...) then i had to get there in person to physically show them. The mechanic checked the throttle bodies and calibrated them, checked the fuel filter and basically could not find the cause of it. Now i have the bike at home and took it all apart. So far I discovered that one of the three vacuum hoses coming from the throttle bodies was missing a clamp (but i doubt thats the problem). Since I removed the throttle bodies, i decided to do the valve clearances as well as i could hear some valve ticking (the bike has 20k miles).
Honestly, I think that MadMel (see above) has the answer. It all seems to be pointing to the CPS, especially since I replaced it with ricks like a year ago.
I will keep you guys updated. And yes if you are currently experiencing or have experienced a similar issue, please keep me updated as well. Thanks.

My two options of replacing the CPS are to either purchase a new ricks stator (which i don't prefer since i don't trust their quality anymore) or rewind my factory OEM stator thats burned up and use the factory CPS. Though I’m hoping that the CPS didn’t get damaged when the stator went bad.
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post #26 of 38 Old 05-08-19, 18:27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razvan Barcan View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMel View Post
Yep, Monday was my first day on the track since replacing the CPS, and the problem was solved. A CPS that fails the ohm test is definitely bad, but it can also be bad without failing the ohm test.
Since it comes pre-assembled with the stator, did you replace the stator as well? If so, did you use OEM or aftermarket like ricks?
I replaced it with a Caltric, on which I put a Metri-pack stator connection. I think Caltric and Ricks are of similar quality, but Caltric is far less expensive. FarCanal has posted a link to a better quality CPS that can be soldered in place of the old one if you wish to retain the existing stator.
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post #27 of 38 Old 05-10-19, 10:38 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMel View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Razvan Barcan View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMel View Post
Yep, Monday was my first day on the track since replacing the CPS, and the problem was solved. A CPS that fails the ohm test is definitely bad, but it can also be bad without failing the ohm test.
Since it comes pre-assembled with the stator, did you replace the stator as well? If so, did you use OEM or aftermarket like ricks?
I replaced it with a Caltric, on which I put a Metri-pack stator connection. I think Caltric and Ricks are of similar quality, but Caltric is far less expensive. FarCanal has posted a link to a better quality CPS that can be soldered in place of the old one if you wish to retain the existing stator.
Im thinking of keeping the ricks stator since it hasn’t burnt out and replace the cps by itself. Im having difficulty finding the FarCanal one. Could you please post the link? Very much appreciated.
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post #28 of 38 Old 05-10-19, 18:09
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/222603501414

I misspelled his name, that wouldn't have helped your search. Forum user Far Canal has posted this link a couple of times. I searched eBay using terms from that 🔗 and found many sellers.

Last edited by MadMel; 05-10-19 at 18:16.
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post #29 of 38 Old 05-13-19, 01:32 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMel View Post
https://www.ebay.com/itm/222603501414

I misspelled his name, that wouldn't have helped your search. Forum user Far Canal has posted this link a couple of times. I searched eBay using terms from that 🔗 and found many sellers.
Thanks for the link. I went ahead and bought it.
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post #30 of 38 Old 05-26-19, 05:55
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Hi guys,


i had exact the same problem with my 2011 Daytona after i replaced a broken CPS. I bought a new aftermarket CPS from a guy in a german forum. Then i tried those china CPS (MadMels link) and it also failed. The stuttering was even worse with that one. Then i bought an OEM CPS from a Triumph dealer here in germany. Normalwise you dont get it separately, but this guy sells them for around 85€. This solved the problem for me. My bike runs perfect again. So i really donīt recommend aftermarket CPS as they simply donīt work properly. It took me weeks to find out, checking almost everything else and changing maps etc.


Greets from Germany
Paul
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