Street Triple to Daytona wiring harness transplant - Triumph675.Net Forums
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 37 Old 07-21-14, 13:51 Thread Starter
MakinBeer
Senior Member
 
MakinBeer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: IE, CA
Posts: 751
Thanks: 22
Thanked 33 Times in 27 Posts
Garage
Street Triple to Daytona wiring harness transplant

After damaging some wiring on my bike after a small lowside at the track, I started looking into replacing the harness with one from a Street Triple. I saw three advantages:

- The wiring is almost entirely within the frame, preventing this type of damage in the future
- The fuse box and relays are relocated to the top of the airbox, eliminating the problem of securing them within track bodywork. It also makes fitting the upper easier as there is not a mass of wire next to the radiator filler neck.
- R/R relocation, solving the problem of what the hell to do with it. Mine was previously velcroed inside the upper fairing. Also, a chance to upgrade to a MOSFET R/R

Since I haven't been able to track down a used race ECU and harness, I figured this would do for now. This is also much less expensive. My bike is a 2012 675R, so in my research I found that any 09+ ST harness should do, as they would have the QS connector. I can't speak to compatibility for previous generation interchange (06-08), but I imagine you should stay within your own.

Initial observations:
- The ST has no provisions for EXUP or intake flapper, so these will need to be disabled at the very least. Mine are removed.
- You pretty much have to relocate the R/R, I chose to go with the ST stock location.
- The ST positive battery cable is 4-6" longer than the Daytona. I will probably separate and re-use my original
- The barometric pressure sensor will have to be relocated somewhere to the rear of the bike.
- The fall detection switch is relocated to the top of the airbox, but the bracket is already there.
- Make sure the airbox cover has the bolt holes to mount the relay/fuse box bracket


I procured the following:
- 1 2010 ST wiring harness with relay bracket
- 1 ST MOSFET R/R and bracket
- 2 M6 1.0x20mm stainless hex cap screws
- 2 M5 0.80x12mm stainless hex pan screws


Stock harness removed. The starter cable and sensor pigtails/sub-harnesses are left in place.




R/R and bracket installed. Use the M6 bolts here. I was swapping the shock out anyway. I don't know if it needs to be removed for this, but it surely made it easier.

After bolting the bracket up, I discovered there isn't enough room to get the connectors down through the opening between the bracket and the engine, so make sure they are dropped down and in position first.

Connected the harness ground and battery negative cable, secured this section of wiring under the retainer:



This is a work in progress, I will add to it as I work on it. I got further than the pictures show, but discovered one ECU connector had a broken clip. I did, however, successfully operate the starter and hope to have it fired by the weekend.

Last edited by MakinBeer; 07-30-14 at 19:50.
MakinBeer is offline  
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to MakinBeer For This Useful Post:
02955i (07-27-14), Glocken (07-30-14)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 37 Old 07-22-14, 20:02
Ruby Racing
BOTM Winner
 
Ruby Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
Posts: 2,539
Thanks: 0
Thanked 44 Times in 38 Posts
Interesting.

Subscribed.


To read about the transformation click > Project Trixie Transformation

For comparison photo of old R/R with new improved R/R under recall of 2012 click > R/R Comparison Photos
Ruby Racing is offline  
post #3 of 37 Old 07-30-14, 19:42 Thread Starter
MakinBeer
Senior Member
Threadstarter Threadstarter
 
MakinBeer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: IE, CA
Posts: 751
Thanks: 22
Thanked 33 Times in 27 Posts
Garage
Small update on this. Fired the bike last night, thus confirming that the harnesses are pin-for-pin compatible. Next steps are removing unnecessary connectors (lighting, etc), finding a home for the baro sensor and final routing.
MakinBeer is offline  
 
post #4 of 37 Old 08-15-14, 18:14 Thread Starter
MakinBeer
Senior Member
Threadstarter Threadstarter
 
MakinBeer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: IE, CA
Posts: 751
Thanks: 22
Thanked 33 Times in 27 Posts
Garage
A little progress on this, have a lot of plates spinning at the moment getting ready for a 8/23 track day.

Alarm connector permanently wired. Afterward, I cut the plug and extra wire and everything taped up nice and tidy.



I'm using this stuff to wrap the altered sections of harness. No adhesive so electrical tape residue, though I do tape the ends with a single wrap.


Barometric sensor relocated. I used a 3/4" spacer and M6 x 40mm bolt through an existing hole in the storage compartment.



Not sure if this orientation is proper, I've read the tube needs to be vertical. Anyone have any insight?

Last edited by MakinBeer; 08-15-14 at 19:09.
MakinBeer is offline  
post #5 of 37 Old 08-15-14, 18:37
Ruby Racing
BOTM Winner
 
Ruby Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
Posts: 2,539
Thanks: 0
Thanked 44 Times in 38 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MakinBeer View Post
Not sure if this orientation is proper, I've read the tube needs to be vertical. Anyone have any insight?
As soon as I saw your photo I thought "that's not how they are as standard". The two fitted on my 2006 model both have the small tube facing downwards at 6 o'clock position, not at 3 o'clock like yours. Might be worth making a little bracket to orientate it downwards. Just to be on the safe side.


To read about the transformation click > Project Trixie Transformation

For comparison photo of old R/R with new improved R/R under recall of 2012 click > R/R Comparison Photos
Ruby Racing is offline  
post #6 of 37 Old 08-15-14, 19:11 Thread Starter
MakinBeer
Senior Member
Threadstarter Threadstarter
 
MakinBeer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: IE, CA
Posts: 751
Thanks: 22
Thanked 33 Times in 27 Posts
Garage
Right, I'm guessing it could possibly be fooled by airflow past it. That said, it seems like it would be more of an issue if it were facing forward (pressure) or backward (negative pressure).

Also (and I would love to get an authoritative answer on this), isn't this sensor's input only used for low speed fueling? If so, totally not an issue with this application.
MakinBeer is offline  
post #7 of 37 Old 08-16-14, 01:40
MacBandit
Super Moderator
 
MacBandit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Seattle
Posts: 11,843
Thanks: 21
Thanked 390 Times in 333 Posts
Garage
Orientation doesn't matter other than it faces down to prevent moisture contamination.

The sensor is only used for adaptation. Although there is no way to turn it off in the ECU. You would have to put a resistor in it but there is no reason not to keep it.
MacBandit is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to MacBandit For This Useful Post:
MakinBeer (08-16-14)
post #8 of 37 Old 08-16-14, 18:25 Thread Starter
MakinBeer
Senior Member
Threadstarter Threadstarter
 
MakinBeer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: IE, CA
Posts: 751
Thanks: 22
Thanked 33 Times in 27 Posts
Garage
Cool, thanks Mac. Moisture isn't really a concern in this situation, so it should be fine.
MakinBeer is offline  
post #9 of 37 Old 08-16-14, 18:28
MacBandit
Super Moderator
 
MacBandit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Seattle
Posts: 11,843
Thanks: 21
Thanked 390 Times in 333 Posts
Garage
MacBandit is offline  
post #10 of 37 Old 08-17-14, 01:47 Thread Starter
MakinBeer
Senior Member
Threadstarter Threadstarter
 
MakinBeer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: IE, CA
Posts: 751
Thanks: 22
Thanked 33 Times in 27 Posts
Garage
SoCal, garage kept track bike. :)
MakinBeer is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Triumph675.Net Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode


Forum Jump

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome