After damaging some wiring on my bike after a small lowside at the track, I started looking into replacing the harness with one from a Street Triple. I saw three advantages:
- The wiring is almost entirely within the frame, preventing this type of damage in the future
- The fuse box and relays are relocated to the top of the airbox, eliminating the problem of securing them within track bodywork. It also makes fitting the upper easier as there is not a mass of wire next to the radiator filler neck.
- R/R relocation, solving the problem of what the hell to do with it. Mine was previously velcroed inside the upper fairing. Also, a chance to upgrade to a MOSFET R/R
Since I haven't been able to track down a used race ECU and harness, I figured this would do for now. This is also much less expensive. My bike is a 2012 675R, so in my research I found that any 09+ ST harness should do, as they would have the QS connector. I can't speak to compatibility for previous generation interchange (06-08), but I imagine you should stay within your own.
- The ST has no provisions for EXUP or intake flapper, so these will need to be disabled at the very least. Mine are removed.
- You pretty much have to relocate the R/R, I chose to go with the ST stock location.
- The ST positive battery cable is 4-6" longer than the Daytona. I will probably separate and re-use my original
- The barometric pressure sensor will have to be relocated somewhere to the rear of the bike.
- The fall detection switch is relocated to the top of the airbox, but the bracket is already there.
- Make sure the airbox cover has the bolt holes to mount the relay/fuse box bracket
I procured the following:
- 1 2010 ST wiring harness with relay bracket
- 1 ST MOSFET R/R and bracket
- 2 M6 1.0x20mm stainless hex cap screws
- 2 M5 0.80x12mm stainless hex pan screws
Stock harness removed. The starter cable and sensor pigtails/sub-harnesses are left in place.
R/R and bracket installed. Use the M6 bolts here. I was swapping the shock out anyway. I don't know if it needs to be removed for this, but it surely made it easier.
After bolting the bracket up, I discovered there isn't enough room to get the connectors down through the opening between the bracket and the engine, so make sure they are dropped down and in position first.
Connected the harness ground and battery negative cable, secured this section of wiring under the retainer:
This is a work in progress, I will add to it as I work on it. I got further than the pictures show, but discovered one ECU connector had a broken clip. I did, however, successfully operate the starter and hope to have it fired by the weekend.