2013 675R Brake Upgrade? - Triumph675.Net Forums
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post #1 of 25 Old 05-11-18, 15:16 Thread Starter
NorCalTrumpet
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2013 675R Brake Upgrade?

My first post and hopefully it's not too obscure...

I've had 2 Street Triples, the latest being the amazing 765 RS, with brakes that make everything else pale in comparison.

I recently picked up a 2013 Daytona 675R (w/ ABS) for track days (intermediate group). I've only done one track day on it so far but the brakes seem a little spongy and numb with more lever travel compared to the 765 RS. It appears that the Daytona has the M4 Brembos whereas the RS has the M5/M50 as well as a different master cylinder.

I'm thinking about the M50 upgrade to the Daytona and wondering if anyone else has done it and if it's yielded improved results for them. It sounds like the ABS unit in the Daytona leaves something to be desired but I'd really like the system to be a little more confidence inspiring like the RS.

Following the first track day I flushed the front brakes on the Daytona and checked pads and rotors (lots of meat on both and clean). There still seems to be noticeably more travel in the Daytona brake lever than the RS. Yes, I did also bleed the master cylinder. I've not yet been able to give it a good shake down yet though I have another track day tomorrow.

If I do the M50 upgrade, I'll likely get the same master cylinder as the Street Triple (actually seems like it might be cheaper to buy it that way too).

So, in sum, I'm wondering if anyone else has upgraded to the M50 and corresponding master cylinder on their 2013+ Daytona 675R and how the results worked out?
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post #2 of 25 Old 05-11-18, 16:21
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Don’t have the answer to your question, but I do have a small suggestion that may be worth trying out.

Use a bungee or zip tie and wrap around your throttle and brake lever to engage your front brake as far as it’ll go and leave it overnight.

Doing so is free and may improve feel at the lever. Give it a try.


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post #3 of 25 Old 05-11-18, 18:46
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Since it's a track bike, you might consider first getting direct-to-caliper brake lines from Galfer and capping the ABS pump. That more than halves the amount of brake line in the system and in my experience, provides better feel. I also went with Brembo Z04 pads, which are expensive for a reason. They damn well work.

The squishy master, unfortunately, is more common than it should be. They need to be looked after and being 5 years old, yours is probably due for a rebuild. @mszilves had some sponginess that I never had on my '15, but once he swapped it out for an eBay special, his brakes feel good again.

@jdgun_13 is always tooting the M50's horn, so that would still probably be a good upgrade if you're not happy with lines and pads alone. You could get the RS' stock master, or the Brembo designed for the M50's. I forget if it's the 19x20 or 18x20 or something else, but JD could probably tell you.
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post #4 of 25 Old 05-11-18, 19:33
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You want a 17mm master for the M50. 17mm RCS is a good option.
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post #5 of 25 Old 05-12-18, 10:32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalTrumpet View Post
My first post and hopefully it's not too obscure...

I've had 2 Street Triples, the latest being the amazing 765 RS, with brakes that make everything else pale in comparison.

I recently picked up a 2013 Daytona 675R (w/ ABS) for track days (intermediate group). I've only done one track day on it so far but the brakes seem a little spongy and numb with more lever travel compared to the 765 RS. It appears that the Daytona has the M4 Brembos whereas the RS has the M5/M50 as well as a different master cylinder.

I'm thinking about the M50 upgrade to the Daytona and wondering if anyone else has done it and if it's yielded improved results for them. It sounds like the ABS unit in the Daytona leaves something to be desired but I'd really like the system to be a little more confidence inspiring like the RS.

Following the first track day I flushed the front brakes on the Daytona and checked pads and rotors (lots of meat on both and clean). There still seems to be noticeably more travel in the Daytona brake lever than the RS. Yes, I did also bleed the master cylinder. I've not yet been able to give it a good shake down yet though I have another track day tomorrow.

If I do the M50 upgrade, I'll likely get the same master cylinder as the Street Triple (actually seems like it might be cheaper to buy it that way too).

So, in sum, I'm wondering if anyone else has upgraded to the M50 and corresponding master cylinder on their 2013+ Daytona 675R and how the results worked out?
The M50 is also an M4 with a piston diameter of 30mm. The stock M4 on your D675R is M4.34 (34mm pistons) and the M50 is M4.30 (30mm pistons). The Brembo marketing named the M4.30 calipers M50, simply because it was launched on the 50th anniversary of Brembo ;)

If I were you I'd start with the M/C first. The Brembo 19RCS M/C is the best upgrade on my bike so far, together with the D675R front-end. Brembo also has a newer version of the 19RCS, called the 19RCS Corsa Corta with 6 different braking modulation options. Apparently RidersDiscount has them in stock too. For more info you can also see their forum thread here:
RidersDiscount 19RC Corsa Corta.

Brembo 19RCS (or 19RCS Corsa Corta) M/C combined with Motul RBF 660 brake fluid and suitable brake pads, will give excellent feel and satisfactory braking power both on the street and track without braking the bank IMHO.

If your D675R is going to be a dedicated track bike, and your mind is set on the M50 (a.k.a M4.30), or you simply want to try it out, it's best to disable or bypass ( as @MGFChapin suggested) the ABS first. The ABS system has a mind of its own, and with ABS enabled I highly doubt that you'll see any difference or gains between the M4.34 or the M4.30 calipers if there's any.
The suitable M/C for the M50 is the Brembo 17RCS M/C. It may be a better option than the Brembo's MCS M/C (oem) on the RS. @jdgun_13 has more knowledge and experience on the M50 so he can make other suggestions as well. JD helped me a lot when I was doing the D675R front end conversion.

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Last edited by Hooligaz675; 05-12-18 at 11:29.
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post #6 of 25 Old 05-12-18, 13:52
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For what it's worth I've upgraded the MC to a 19RCS and I still have some significant lever travel before the initial bite. I think the slight issue with the Daytona's brakes starts with the ABS system, and is unlikely to be fully cured by changing MCs or calipers.
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post #7 of 25 Old 05-12-18, 16:34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phicurious86 View Post
For what it's worth I've upgraded the MC to a 19RCS and I still have some significant lever travel before the initial bite. I think the slight issue with the Daytona's brakes starts with the ABS system, and is unlikely to be fully cured by changing MCs or calipers.
That's interesting. I don't have that issue with the 19RCS. After manually bleeding the brake lines fully, have you also tried getting the ABS system bled via Diagnostics Software ? In the Triumph Diagnostics SW there's an option to bleed the ABS. I use the factory diagnostics SW to bleed the ABS 'cause I have access to it free of charge. But apparently the ABS bleed option is also available in the aftermarket SW called DealerTool.

Here's the link to the pdf explaining the ABS Brake System Bleed Procedure.

Hope this info helps.

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post #8 of 25 Old 05-12-18, 16:40
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@Phicurious86 - Also just curious, are you using the 19RCS set @ 18 or 20 ?

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post #9 of 25 Old 05-12-18, 16:42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hooligaz675 View Post
But apparently the ABS bleed option is also available in the aftermarket SW called DealerTool.
The latest version of TuneECU also has a “bleed ABS” option.
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post #10 of 25 Old 05-12-18, 17:42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hooligaz675 View Post
That's interesting. I don't have that issue with the 19RCS. After manually bleeding the brake lines fully, have you also tried getting the ABS system bled via Diagnostics Software ? In the Triumph Diagnostics SW there's an option to bleed the ABS. I use the factory diagnostics SW to bleed the ABS 'cause I have access to it free of charge. But apparently the ABS bleed option is also available in the aftermarket SW called DealerTool.

Here's the link to the pdf explaining the ABS Brake System Bleed Procedure.

Hope this info helps.
Yeah I've bled the ABS a few times to no avail. There's still a pretty significant amount of lever travel before the initial bite. I'm using the RCS on the 18mm setting and the travel is a bit more pronounced on the 18mm setting than compared to the 20.
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