Hey guys. This is going to be an overview of what needs to be done to install Daytona cams in your Street triple. This is for 12 and below Street triples. Some stuff may transfer to the 13+ bikes but I don't know for sure. Some of whats stated here is here say gathered off of the forums. Anything written here that I'm not 100% sure is fact I will star like this** Don't take it as scripture. Use it as a general guide and do your research.
Benefits are almost 10hp on top with minimal loss in mid range. The Daytona cams are the same lift on the exhaust but longer duration**Source: MacBandit. I will have my bike on the dyno here soon to get some actual numbers. I never did a before dyno run, but Street Triples are pretty consistent on the dyno. You can find Daytona cams for about 100 bucks, so the cost/HP ratio is ridiculously high on this mod.
Obviously I'm not liable to any damage done to the bike. Worst case you screw up the timing and bang a valve into the piston and you need a new head. Consider yourself warned. Get your self a service manual. Read the section pertaining to the cams before you dive into the bike. If you need the service manual feel free to PM me and I'll send you the link for it. If your not mechanically inclined, take it to a shop to do it. Its not worth the risk of damage. I'm writing this off the top of my head so If i left anything out let me know. As your doing this if its your first time take pictures of every connector, every bolt as you remove it. You'll thank me later.
Getting the right stuff:
Get yourself a set of 06-08 Daytona cams. The 08+ Cams are not a good match for the 12< Street triple. It was brought to my attention that due to the cam wear pattern on the buckets you should try and get the original buckets from the Daytona if possible to avoid any wear issues.**
Source: mrmikeracing
Make sure you have a Tune ECU cable, software, and are familiar with mapping/diagnostic functions on your bike. You'll use it.
Valve cover gasket, timing cover gasket, Cam Chain tensioner gasket(may or may not need) Cam cover bolt seals(you may need them, you may not. I only needed one.), Various valve shims (you wont know what you need until you get in there, and obviously you need feeler gauges to check the clearances) Finally get yourself some plugs while your at it. They're right there and easy to replace.
SAI delete plates, might as well do it while your in there. You can turn it off with tune ecu later.
Some sort of aftermarket exhaust is highly recommended for this mod.
Teardown:
I didnt take a lot of pics here, If you aren't capable of getting the airbox off your bike you probably shouldn't be doing this.
Remove:
Seat
Radiator cowls:
tip for anyone here that doesn't know, when you go to remove the turn signals disassemble the actual flasher and disconnect the wires from the bulb socket and pull them through the stalk. This leaves you with an extra 6 inches of wire and the connectors are buried under the airbox.
Tank:
Be sure to not put stress on your fuel pump electrical connections. I accidentally tore one of the wires. Just lift the tank up enough for you to get your hands in there and disconnect the two connectors and the fuel line. This is what happens if you put too much stress on the connector... not fun. Trouble shooting that was an absolute *****.
Airbox:
Pretty strait forward. Disconnect everything and pull the top off, giving you access to the velocity stacks. Use the allen key to pull those out and remove bolt at the front. Before you pull the airbox out make sure you disconnected the vacuum line that runs to the map(i think its the map) sensor on the left side of the airbox. Remove the SAI intake, and the crank vent on the undersides of the airbox and remove the airbox. Block off your throttle bodies with shop rags to prevent any thing falling in. You should be left with some wiring, and the valve cover. We're making progress.
Disconnect the throttle cables from the throttle body. You only have to remove the bolts that secure the cable. Dont remove it from the actual shaft. you just have to move the throttle cables a little bit out of the way. ( you dont have to do this. I just found the extra clearance useful)
Unbolt the frame infill panels and remove. Disconnect SAI system and remove if your blocking it off. Dont forget to remove from the valve cover. Disconnect electrical connectors from coil packs. Remove coil packs but wait to remove spark plugs. Mark the connector to the corresponding plug if you feel its needed. Move all the wiring off to the left of the bike and out of the way.
At this point you should be left with the valve cover and not much else. Take the top two bolts out of the radiator for a little extra clearance. You'll thank me for this when we check the clearances.
Start pulling the valve cover bolts. The service manual has the directions for removal order. The shorter bolts are on the far right side where the cam chain is.
Pull out your valve cover. Use a rubber hammer to break it loose, do not pry it you can damage the machined surfaces. Clearance is tight, but pull it out the right side. Make sure you don't get hung up on the gasket. When you get it out check to make sure you have all 3 dowl pins in the valve cover, if you don't pull them out of the camshaft ladder and put them in the valve cover for safe keeping. Remove valve cover gasket.
This may seem like a good time to install the SAI block off plates but wait. You may have clearance issues re installing the cover. Check your cam cover bolt seals and replace as needed.
Remove spark plugs
Remove the ignition timing cover on the right side. Put a pan under the motor on that side, its going to drop some oil. Your gasket may come off clean, may disintegrate.
Locate TDC Cyl 1. You do this by looking for the detent in the gear and lining up with the raised groove in the case. My gear was marked with just before with some white paint. I found a socket big enough to fit over the cam chain sprocket nut and used a breaker bar. I suppose you could put it in 6th gear and spin the rear wheel but you'll save yourself a lot of headache by finding the right size socket.
At this point you should have the motor at TDC Cyl 1.
For the love of god, do this next step. It would have saved me probably 10 hours of trouble shooting time and headache. Take a picture of your stock cam timing marks on the gear(should be pointing in), and the cam lobe location. Take note of the cam lobe location on cyl 1. Use a clock, your intake should be somewhere around 4 oclock and exhaust around 7 . Your cam lobes on cyl 1 should be pointing inwards toward each other.
###A note on this### Anyone with common sense can say that's not right. At TDC on any 4 stroke the exhaust cam should be just getting ready to open. I don't know why it's like this with the intake cam getting ready to open, but for whatever reason that's not the case here. I called triumph tech support ( I work at a dealer) and they told me they don't know why, but this is the correct timing.
Next remove the cam chain tensioner. Set the gasket aside if it came off clean. Steps to remove the plunger on the tensioner are in the service manual and you really should look at it for this part but I'll give you a run down. Basiclly you hold the clip together by the loops and pull the plunger out. Be careful. Its full of oil and spring loaded. You should have in your hands the tensioner body, the plunger, spring. The clip you held together , and another clip closer twards the motor if it was installed, should have stayed in the body. Drain any oil out. Re install the spring, then the plunger. Put tensioner in a vice. Use the two loops you used earlier and start cranking down the vice. If you get any resistance you don't have the loops pulled in correctly. Start cranking down until you can get the clip closest to the motor to seat in the plunger. It should hold it there completely compressed. Set aside for re install. You should have something that looks like this.
Benefits are almost 10hp on top with minimal loss in mid range. The Daytona cams are the same lift on the exhaust but longer duration**Source: MacBandit. I will have my bike on the dyno here soon to get some actual numbers. I never did a before dyno run, but Street Triples are pretty consistent on the dyno. You can find Daytona cams for about 100 bucks, so the cost/HP ratio is ridiculously high on this mod.
Obviously I'm not liable to any damage done to the bike. Worst case you screw up the timing and bang a valve into the piston and you need a new head. Consider yourself warned. Get your self a service manual. Read the section pertaining to the cams before you dive into the bike. If you need the service manual feel free to PM me and I'll send you the link for it. If your not mechanically inclined, take it to a shop to do it. Its not worth the risk of damage. I'm writing this off the top of my head so If i left anything out let me know. As your doing this if its your first time take pictures of every connector, every bolt as you remove it. You'll thank me later.
Getting the right stuff:
Get yourself a set of 06-08 Daytona cams. The 08+ Cams are not a good match for the 12< Street triple. It was brought to my attention that due to the cam wear pattern on the buckets you should try and get the original buckets from the Daytona if possible to avoid any wear issues.**
Source: mrmikeracing
Make sure you have a Tune ECU cable, software, and are familiar with mapping/diagnostic functions on your bike. You'll use it.
Valve cover gasket, timing cover gasket, Cam Chain tensioner gasket(may or may not need) Cam cover bolt seals(you may need them, you may not. I only needed one.), Various valve shims (you wont know what you need until you get in there, and obviously you need feeler gauges to check the clearances) Finally get yourself some plugs while your at it. They're right there and easy to replace.
SAI delete plates, might as well do it while your in there. You can turn it off with tune ecu later.
Some sort of aftermarket exhaust is highly recommended for this mod.
Teardown:
I didnt take a lot of pics here, If you aren't capable of getting the airbox off your bike you probably shouldn't be doing this.
Remove:
Seat
Radiator cowls:
tip for anyone here that doesn't know, when you go to remove the turn signals disassemble the actual flasher and disconnect the wires from the bulb socket and pull them through the stalk. This leaves you with an extra 6 inches of wire and the connectors are buried under the airbox.
Tank:
Be sure to not put stress on your fuel pump electrical connections. I accidentally tore one of the wires. Just lift the tank up enough for you to get your hands in there and disconnect the two connectors and the fuel line. This is what happens if you put too much stress on the connector... not fun. Trouble shooting that was an absolute *****.
Airbox:
Pretty strait forward. Disconnect everything and pull the top off, giving you access to the velocity stacks. Use the allen key to pull those out and remove bolt at the front. Before you pull the airbox out make sure you disconnected the vacuum line that runs to the map(i think its the map) sensor on the left side of the airbox. Remove the SAI intake, and the crank vent on the undersides of the airbox and remove the airbox. Block off your throttle bodies with shop rags to prevent any thing falling in. You should be left with some wiring, and the valve cover. We're making progress.
Disconnect the throttle cables from the throttle body. You only have to remove the bolts that secure the cable. Dont remove it from the actual shaft. you just have to move the throttle cables a little bit out of the way. ( you dont have to do this. I just found the extra clearance useful)
Unbolt the frame infill panels and remove. Disconnect SAI system and remove if your blocking it off. Dont forget to remove from the valve cover. Disconnect electrical connectors from coil packs. Remove coil packs but wait to remove spark plugs. Mark the connector to the corresponding plug if you feel its needed. Move all the wiring off to the left of the bike and out of the way.
At this point you should be left with the valve cover and not much else. Take the top two bolts out of the radiator for a little extra clearance. You'll thank me for this when we check the clearances.
Start pulling the valve cover bolts. The service manual has the directions for removal order. The shorter bolts are on the far right side where the cam chain is.
Pull out your valve cover. Use a rubber hammer to break it loose, do not pry it you can damage the machined surfaces. Clearance is tight, but pull it out the right side. Make sure you don't get hung up on the gasket. When you get it out check to make sure you have all 3 dowl pins in the valve cover, if you don't pull them out of the camshaft ladder and put them in the valve cover for safe keeping. Remove valve cover gasket.
This may seem like a good time to install the SAI block off plates but wait. You may have clearance issues re installing the cover. Check your cam cover bolt seals and replace as needed.
Remove spark plugs
Remove the ignition timing cover on the right side. Put a pan under the motor on that side, its going to drop some oil. Your gasket may come off clean, may disintegrate.
Locate TDC Cyl 1. You do this by looking for the detent in the gear and lining up with the raised groove in the case. My gear was marked with just before with some white paint. I found a socket big enough to fit over the cam chain sprocket nut and used a breaker bar. I suppose you could put it in 6th gear and spin the rear wheel but you'll save yourself a lot of headache by finding the right size socket.
At this point you should have the motor at TDC Cyl 1.
For the love of god, do this next step. It would have saved me probably 10 hours of trouble shooting time and headache. Take a picture of your stock cam timing marks on the gear(should be pointing in), and the cam lobe location. Take note of the cam lobe location on cyl 1. Use a clock, your intake should be somewhere around 4 oclock and exhaust around 7 . Your cam lobes on cyl 1 should be pointing inwards toward each other.
###A note on this### Anyone with common sense can say that's not right. At TDC on any 4 stroke the exhaust cam should be just getting ready to open. I don't know why it's like this with the intake cam getting ready to open, but for whatever reason that's not the case here. I called triumph tech support ( I work at a dealer) and they told me they don't know why, but this is the correct timing.
Next remove the cam chain tensioner. Set the gasket aside if it came off clean. Steps to remove the plunger on the tensioner are in the service manual and you really should look at it for this part but I'll give you a run down. Basiclly you hold the clip together by the loops and pull the plunger out. Be careful. Its full of oil and spring loaded. You should have in your hands the tensioner body, the plunger, spring. The clip you held together , and another clip closer twards the motor if it was installed, should have stayed in the body. Drain any oil out. Re install the spring, then the plunger. Put tensioner in a vice. Use the two loops you used earlier and start cranking down the vice. If you get any resistance you don't have the loops pulled in correctly. Start cranking down until you can get the clip closest to the motor to seat in the plunger. It should hold it there completely compressed. Set aside for re install. You should have something that looks like this.