Starting issues - no gear or neutral light displayed, 10A ignition fuse blowing - Triumph675.Net Forums
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post #1 of 3 Old 08-05-19, 00:12 Thread Starter
bluedaytona02
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Starting issues - no gear or neutral light displayed, 10A ignition fuse blowing

06 Daytona 675 race bike.

Very early in the race weekend the bike became very difficult/impossible to start with the starter. To get it going I had to roll start it and thumb the starter at the same time. I even tried an extra earth lead between the main earth and the frame (as suggested by a few mechanics at the track).

In the end, everything came to a head when the bike died under power down the straight - the dash went blank and the bike just died.

Back in the pits I discovered the 10A ignition fuse was blown and subsequent replacements also blew until I used a 15A unit, however it would still not start (even rolling it like before).
Along with the fuse issue, I also noted the gear indicator did not change from zero and the neutral light would not illuminate, regardless which gear was selected.

Previously this season, I've had issues with the bike cutting out momentarily when under throttle. It was like the quickshifter sensor was vibrating and cutting the spark. Oddly enough, it was far more prevalent when the bike had more fuel than just above where the low level light comes on.
To fix this issue, I pulled the HM quickshifter, changed the internal pump and filter in the fuel pump (new Kemso unit) and also fixed a broken intake temp sensor plug while I was there.

Battery is a 2y.o. SSB unit that lives on a tender between race meetings (and in the pits between races).
Plugs are iridium - pic included.
Currently running a toggle switch rather than the OEM keyed ignition.
Tank pump and fuel level sender plugs have been replaced from a donor loom. As well as the air intake temp sensor plug. Crank position sensor was also been replaced a while ago with a cheap Chinese one.

The bike has always been temperamental to start when very hot. An auto elec explained to me that as the starter motor gets hot, more current is required to start the bike due to heat soak.

How can I test the gear position sensor?
Would it prevent the bike from starting?

Any other ideas?

Obviously I'll look the loom over for any damaged wires or potential earths.

TIA

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Current: '06 Daytona 675 ('08 BEARS winning bike - Chris Panayi) White with Pitty's Custom Vinyls TTC decals STM Slipper Clutch Braking wave rotors with folding/adjustable levers GB engine covers Valter Moto Rearsets Race kit detent wheel & idle adjuster 1050 throttle tube Captive Wheel Spacers MotoGems bling Vortex clip-ons, Stomp grip 520 conversion Puig screen Madaz slip-on Intake flapper & Ex-up removed Swing-arm pivot mod. Thinner head gasket Custom tune
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post #2 of 3 Old 08-05-19, 16:42
MadMel
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It's obviously not related to the starting issue, but "Previously this season, I've had issues with the bike cutting out momentarily when under throttle" is what I've had with two different failing CPSes. It feels like you lightly tapped the quickshifter, except that of course you'll be at full lean and nearly go ass over teakettle, or have someone drafting you on the straight and nearly give you an R6 enema.
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post #3 of 3 Old 08-05-19, 18:15 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMel View Post
It's obviously not related to the starting issue, but "Previously this season, I've had issues with the bike cutting out momentarily when under throttle" is what I've had with two different failing CPSes. It feels like you lightly tapped the quickshifter, except that of course you'll be at full lean and nearly go ass over teakettle, or have someone drafting you on the straight and nearly give you an R6 enema.
Absolutely. It was violent enough that I had to back off and just salvage points/positions as best I could.

CPS resistance measures twice what it should so I will be changing it. It may also explain the extra current draw that blew the ignition fuse.
It doesn't however explain the gear position indicator issue - no display or neutral light. I guess since both feeds go through the Bazzaz system, maybe it takes the CPS error and stops reading the GPS.

I have a spare engine which has a newly grafted CPS. I'll swap the stator/CPS and GPS units, even though the GPS has the same readings with the multimeter.

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Current: '06 Daytona 675 ('08 BEARS winning bike - Chris Panayi) White with Pitty's Custom Vinyls TTC decals STM Slipper Clutch Braking wave rotors with folding/adjustable levers GB engine covers Valter Moto Rearsets Race kit detent wheel & idle adjuster 1050 throttle tube Captive Wheel Spacers MotoGems bling Vortex clip-ons, Stomp grip 520 conversion Puig screen Madaz slip-on Intake flapper & Ex-up removed Swing-arm pivot mod. Thinner head gasket Custom tune
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