2009 Daytona 675 won't start but cranks - Triumph675.Net Forums
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post #1 of 17 Old 12-17-19, 21:13 Thread Starter
ctdaytona
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2009 Daytona 675 won't start but cranks

Having issues getting my "new to me" bike started…here is the back story as I think it will help knowing how this bike was “abused” before I bought it. My long time friend moved to Atlanta recently and was trying to sell it. Some a-holes attempted to steal it one night and were unsuccessful. They snipped all of the wires going in and out of the RR (don’t ask me why, doesn’t make sense to me but then again I don’t know how to hotwire a bike…). Anyways, I purchased the bike from him in the hopes of reviving it and turning it into a track bike. I mended the wires back together and tested them to make sure connections were solid….then the fun began. He did say prior to the attempted theft the bike started up and ran no problem.

Bike Details:
2009 Daytona 675
21K Miles

Issue:
Bike wouldn't start or crank. It would just make a loud clicking sound. I jump started the bike and it started up for about 5 seconds and then lights flickered, dimmed out, and then the bike turned off. I assumed this was due to a bad battery. I put the battery on a charger until full but same issue. I just replaced it with a brand new Yuasa YT7B-BS battery today and the bike cranks like a champ but will not start. I can smell gas after trying to start it a couple times. I can hear what I believe to be the fuel pump priming when turning the bike on. Video in YouTube link below shows what happens.

Before New Battery: https://youtu.be/ylbx6lsnnBA
After New Battery: https://youtu.be/W161leFFJU8

Diagnostics Performed:
Battery replaced and fully charged. Tested new battery - 13.53v sitting, 12.57 volts ignition on, 11.10v when trying to start
Checked CPS resistance and it reads 196 Ohms which seems to be appropriate based on what I've read.
Checked that fuel line wasn't kinked when removing tank to check CPS sensor
Completed diode test of the RR and it checks out fine.
Completed test of the stator as much as I could (given that the bike does not start) and also checks out fine.
Gas tank is 1/4 full

It is in the mid 30s F here in CT right now but I don’t think that would prevent the bike from starting

I don’t know what else to check but any ideas and guidance are much appreciated…the Daytona is sitting right next to my 2017 street triple 675R and she’s begging me to get it fixed so she doesn’t have to go to the track next season!

Last edited by ctdaytona; 12-17-19 at 22:10.
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post #2 of 17 Old 12-17-19, 23:16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctdaytona View Post
Having issues getting my "new to me" bike started…here is the back story as I think it will help knowing how this bike was “abused” before I bought it. My long time friend moved to Atlanta recently and was trying to sell it. Some a-holes attempted to steal it one night and were unsuccessful. They snipped all of the wires going in and out of the RR (don’t ask me why, doesn’t make sense to me but then again I don’t know how to hotwire a bike…). Anyways, I purchased the bike from him in the hopes of reviving it and turning it into a track bike. I mended the wires back together and tested them to make sure connections were solid….then the fun began. He did say prior to the attempted theft the bike started up and ran no problem.

Bike Details:
2009 Daytona 675
21K Miles

Issue:
Bike wouldn't start or crank. It would just make a loud clicking sound. I jump started the bike and it started up for about 5 seconds and then lights flickered, dimmed out, and then the bike turned off. I assumed this was due to a bad battery. I put the battery on a charger until full but same issue. I just replaced it with a brand new Yuasa YT7B-BS battery today and the bike cranks like a champ but will not start. I can smell gas after trying to start it a couple times. I can hear what I believe to be the fuel pump priming when turning the bike on. Video in YouTube link below shows what happens.

Before New Battery: https://youtu.be/ylbx6lsnnBA
After New Battery: https://youtu.be/W161leFFJU8

Diagnostics Performed:
Battery replaced and fully charged. Tested new battery - 13.53v sitting, 12.57 volts ignition on, 11.10v when trying to start
Checked CPS resistance and it reads 196 Ohms which seems to be appropriate based on what I've read.
Checked that fuel line wasn't kinked when removing tank to check CPS sensor
Completed diode test of the RR and it checks out fine.
Completed test of the stator as much as I could (given that the bike does not start) and also checks out fine.
Gas tank is 1/4 full

It is in the mid 30s F here in CT right now but I don’t think that would prevent the bike from starting

I don’t know what else to check but any ideas and guidance are much appreciated…the Daytona is sitting right next to my 2017 street triple 675R and she’s begging me to get it fixed so she doesn’t have to go to the track next season!
good job with testing so far. Now I would check for spark. Either with a spark tester or just take a sparkplug out and find a good ground to touch it too. becareful not to ignitite anything. While cranking over the motor check to see if the spark plugs light up at the tip.

196ohms seems a little high to me I will have to recheck my test. I think 210ohms was the limit. So if you have no spark you may have a failed CPS issue.

The other issue could be a failed computer. You would have to check a wiring diagram to see which wire(s) send signal to the CPS and/or Ignition coils. Some ignition coils are 3 wire, positive, negative and 5v reference.

"I don't know who you noobs are. I don't know what you noobs want. If you are looking for attention, I can tell you I don't have a long span. But, what I do have are a very particular set of skills; skills I have acquired over a very large amount of posts. Skills that make me a nightmare for people like you. If you drop this now, that'll be the end of it. I will not Google you, I will not photochop you. But if you don't, I will search the webnets for you, I will find you, and I will pwn you."
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post #3 of 17 Old 12-17-19, 23:17
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Can you bump start it?
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post #4 of 17 Old 12-18-19, 19:52 Thread Starter
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So I just got back from the garage. I tested for spark and got it on all three plugs. The tips of the plugs were sort of black so I tested again with new plugs to see if perhaps I'd get a better looking spark. I couldn't really notice any difference in the quality of the spark.

Here is a pic of old plug vs new: https://imgur.com/a/UOk7F9C

Unfortunately there is snow on the ground right now so bump starting isn't an option. I will give that a go once it melts though.

I will start to research the wiring for the ECU a bit (I already have the diagram from fixing the snip happy thief's damage). Is there anything else I can do to check the ECU? Any other ideas/things to check for in general while I have the bike apart?

Thanks for all of the help. It's much appreciated.
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post #5 of 17 Old 12-18-19, 23:26 Thread Starter
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To completely rule out bad plugs I put the three new ones in and tried to start it but the issue still persists...so it definitely wasn't the plugs despite their appearance.
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post #6 of 17 Old 12-19-19, 10:26
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If the bump start works, its probably the CPS. They tend to get tempermental for outirght failing.
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post #7 of 17 Old 12-19-19, 10:35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBeerHunter View Post
If the bump start works, its probably the CPS. They tend to get tempermental for outirght failing.
In my experience, a failing CPS will result in no spark. If there is spark, then the ECU at least thinks it knows the crank position.

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post #8 of 17 Old 12-19-19, 17:07 Thread Starter
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Based on other posts I've read I was under the same impression that if the CPS is faulty, there is no spark. Does having spark and good resistance at the connector definitely rule out CPS?

I downloaded tuneECU and hooked it up. Cleared the fault codes (plenty from when I was doing my spark test with various things disconnected) and tried to start it up again. Only code showing is P1079: Exhaust control valve actuator position sensor - High voltage - Short to positive. I don't think this would prevent the bike from starting. It's just for the EXUP right?

Any other ideas? New to tuneECU so if there's other things I can check there I'm open to suggestions. I checked what I saw available i.e clutch sensor, side stand sensor, fuel pump etc. and those were all fine.
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post #9 of 17 Old 12-19-19, 18:28
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Ive had a cps fail where the bike would run but you had to bump start the bike. It eventually outright failed and would cut in and out on track. Thats when i replaced it for safety reasons.
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post #10 of 17 Old 12-19-19, 21:12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctdaytona View Post
So I just got back from the garage. I tested for spark and got it on all three plugs. The tips of the plugs were sort of black so I tested again with new plugs to see if perhaps I'd get a better looking spark. I couldn't really notice any difference in the quality of the spark.

Here is a pic of old plug vs new: https://imgur.com/a/UOk7F9C

Unfortunately there is snow on the ground right now so bump starting isn't an option. I will give that a go once it melts though.

I will start to research the wiring for the ECU a bit (I already have the diagram from fixing the snip happy thief's damage). Is there anything else I can do to check the ECU? Any other ideas/things to check for in general while I have the bike apart?

Thanks for all of the help. It's much appreciated.
1st of all I want to apologize for the late reply. I know you are anxious to get the bike running again.

Its hard to see your plugs, that looks like normal wear just a little wet.

When you jumped the bike off how did you do it? did you use a Jump box or jumper cables with a vehcle, was the vehicle running or not?

I checked my old pics, my old CPS when it went out was at 1.0XXohms, my new CPS was at .235ohms. Where was yours at again? .9XXohms if so thats too much resistance Specification is ~.200ohm .



lastly as far as testing the ECU that's tedious, and I am decent but not great at it. We send them out to be tested. But to give you an Idea you will have to check for battery voltage at your ECU power wire, one of those wires has to power up that ECU then its distributed to everything else. Most if not all connections will have a power and ground, some will have a 5V reference. The ecu will send out a small amount of voltage (5Volts) to wake up the sensor. This also gives the ecu a signal to let the ECU know the sensor is working. If there is a fault with the sensor, then you will get a short to power or short to ground code like you did with the Exup. Never ohm out an ECU! Computers have diodes which only allow power to flow one way, when you are ohming out a wire you are shooting a small current through it in order to test its resistance. You will also need to see if the ECU has a ground wire and make sure its good as well.

Side note, the EXUP valve will NOT prevent your bike from starting. I had issues with both my 09 TD675 and my 12 TD675R , rode them for miles until I finally got tired of looking at the C.E.L light on.

I'll finish the rest later, starting to doze off, if you anymore questions let me know

"I don't know who you noobs are. I don't know what you noobs want. If you are looking for attention, I can tell you I don't have a long span. But, what I do have are a very particular set of skills; skills I have acquired over a very large amount of posts. Skills that make me a nightmare for people like you. If you drop this now, that'll be the end of it. I will not Google you, I will not photochop you. But if you don't, I will search the webnets for you, I will find you, and I will pwn you."
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