Uneven Brake Pad Wear 14D675R - Triumph675.Net Forums
Maintenance and repair Problems, fixes, general maintenance talk

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post #1 of 15 Old 12-15-19, 23:57 Thread Starter
ramnakhle
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Uneven Brake Pad Wear 14D675R

Hi guys.

Was bored and went ahead and took the front wheel and calipers off and decided to check out the brake pads and pistons.

This is what I found

Dusty parts.



Nice and clean


Bad surprise.
Pad on the left in this pic is almost worn out and all other 3 are less than half-way worn through.





Bike has 30,000km (18-19 K miles) on it and treated like a little baby. Always parked indoor and has never seen a drop of rain in her life.
Last brake pad change was 10,000 km ago (6,000miles).

No issues in braking whatsoever.
I notice a slight dragging noise when I manually rotate the front wheel off the ground but other than that there have been no issues at all.

Here is the dragging noise:

https://youtu.be/Gwd_TYYtuvw



Solutions?
Iíve been told to give the dusty calipers a good cleanup.
Should I get a new seal kit? Really expensive rebuild kits from triumph (170$ x2) for pistons and seals.

Can I take the calipers apart and reuse the old seals?
Any ideas welcome.

Thanks


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Last edited by ramnakhle; 12-16-19 at 00:02.
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post #2 of 15 Old 12-16-19, 02:12 Thread Starter
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Update

Rode to work (20 highway km)
Did not touch the front brake.

On arrival left disk was lukewarm to touch. Right was ice cold.


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post #3 of 15 Old 12-16-19, 06:20
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So the right caliper isn't working. Best bet is air on that side. Bleed it and see if you have in increase in braking power. If so, you can call it a day. If not, the next step is to rebuild that caliper. Get some red rubber grease to make the reinstallation of the pistons easier.

Edit: pull the pads on the right side and clean the piston. Do not push the pistons back into the caliper before doing so.

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post #4 of 15 Old 12-16-19, 06:22 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirp View Post
So the right caliper isn't working. Best bet is air on that side. Bleed it and see if you have in increase in braking power. If so, you can call it a day. If not, the next step is to rebuild that caliper. Get some red rubber grease to make the reinstallation of the pistons easier.


No it is working.
This ride I made it a point not to touch the brake thatís why it was cold.
Normal use it would heat up normally. But the left side always heats up more and keeps dragging even without the use of the brake.


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post #5 of 15 Old 12-16-19, 13:23
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You're due for a rebuild.
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post #6 of 15 Old 12-17-19, 06:03
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGFChapin View Post
You're due for a rebuild.
Yup. Sounds like it's the left that's the problem now.

'61 Clubman's Gold Star, '13 Duke 690, '13 Daytona 675R (track bike), '18 Street Triple RS, '20 R1250R
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post #7 of 15 Old 12-17-19, 10:54
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Before you rebuild, try to clean & "work" the pistons. I'm betting that you just have pistons that aren't moving as freely behind that 1 pad.

What you essentially want to do is pump the pistons out a bit with the M/C and clean them REALLY good (I'd recommend brake fluid, NOT brake cleaner). Once they are all clean, push all the pistons in, then pump them out a bit with the M/C. Repeat the "push pistons in, pump out".


Stuff needed
  • A couple small blocks of wood that will fit in the caliper; ideally a few pieces...one that will span both pistons on 1 side as well as a smaller one which will only cover 1 piston.
  • Small c-clamp or f-clamp. This is what I use. LINK.
  • Cleaning rags cut into 1" wide x 8" long strips, brake fluid

Steps for cleaning and freeing the pistons
  • Remove ONE caliper from the fork and remove the pads
  • Pump the M/C to push all 4 pistons out a little bit; just enough to expose clean piston (~1/8" or about 6mm). You may notice that some pistons do not move. Block the pistons that are moving to force the sticky ones to move out.
  • Use the cleaning rag strips to clean all around the piston. The strips are so you can thread the rag around the piston and "floss" with it. It can be a little tricky but you'll get the idea. You need to get all the dirt off the piston. If you don't regularly clean them, it can take a while. Don't use abrasives; just brake fluid.
  • Once all 4 pistons are clean, push all of them into the caliper. Pay close attention to the M/C reservoir...depending on how full it was you may overflow the res. So remove excess if needed.
  • Now pump the M/C to push all 4 pistons out. Chances are some will be slower and/or stuck. Block the free pistons to force the problem pistons to move. Use the blocks and clamp as needed to hold the pads which are moving freely. You can rig a stack of blocks to keep opposing pistons from coming out.
  • REPEAT the "pump out, push in" a number of times. You'll start to find that the pistons start moving about the same.
  • Reinstall pads, install caliper, pump M/C to tighten up the pads, then repeat whole process on the other caliper.

This process can take a while, especially if you've never done it before or never cleaned your pistons (road & brake dust can be a pain to get off). But its well worth it. I do this every year on my track bikes; it does make a difference.

Use care to not pump pistons out too far. If you do, you'll find that they can be hard to push in...its because you moved the piston past the first seal (oil seal) and this can cause the piston to cock a bit. Just use care to push it back in evenly.
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post #8 of 15 Old 12-17-19, 11:04 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keeena View Post
Before you rebuild, try to clean & "work" the pistons. I'm betting that you just have pistons that aren't moving as freely behind that 1 pad.

What you essentially want to do is pump the pistons out a bit with the M/C and clean them REALLY good (I'd recommend brake fluid, NOT brake cleaner). Once they are all clean, push all the pistons in, then pump them out a bit with the M/C. Repeat the "push pistons in, pump out".


Stuff needed
  • A couple small blocks of wood that will fit in the caliper; ideally a few pieces...one that will span both pistons on 1 side as well as a smaller one which will only cover 1 piston.
  • Small c-clamp or f-clamp. This is what I use. LINK.
  • Cleaning rags cut into 1" wide x 8" long strips, brake fluid

Steps for cleaning and freeing the pistons
  • Remove ONE caliper from the fork and remove the pads
  • Pump the M/C to push all 4 pistons out a little bit; just enough to expose clean piston (~1/8" or about 6mm). You may notice that some pistons do not move. Block the pistons that are moving to force the sticky ones to move out.
  • Use the cleaning rag strips to clean all around the piston. The strips are so you can thread the rag around the piston and "floss" with it. It can be a little tricky but you'll get the idea. You need to get all the dirt off the piston. If you don't regularly clean them, it can take a while. Don't use abrasives; just brake fluid.
  • Once all 4 pistons are clean, push all of them into the caliper. Pay close attention to the M/C reservoir...depending on how full it was you may overflow the res. So remove excess if needed.
  • Now pump the M/C to push all 4 pistons out. Chances are some will be slower and/or stuck. Block the free pistons to force the problem pistons to move. Use the blocks and clamp as needed to hold the pads which are moving freely. You can rig a stack of blocks to keep opposing pistons from coming out.
  • REPEAT the "pump out, push in" a number of times. You'll start to find that the pistons start moving about the same.
  • Reinstall pads, install caliper, pump M/C to tighten up the pads, then repeat whole process on the other caliper.

This process can take a while, especially if you've never done it before or never cleaned your pistons (road & brake dust can be a pain to get off). But its well worth it. I do this every year on my track bikes; it does make a difference.


Thanks for the info.
Already did that yesterday and ended up popping out one of the pistons with an over-eager lever squeeze!

Anyway I had no choice but to take out the whole caliper and took it apart completely.

Cleaned it very thoroughly and reinstalled.
It took some doing!

Anyway I refilled the system and Iím about to do an ABS bleed right now actually using Dealertool.

From what I could tell by spinning the wheel it doesnít look like my problem has been solved. Keep in mind I had to reuse the old seals since I havenít had time to source new ones.

On visual inspection they seem ok but Iím sure theyíre all dried up so will be doing all this again soon to replace them.
The pistons are practically brand new so I wonít be replacing those just yet.
Here are the pics I took.




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post #9 of 15 Old 12-17-19, 11:05 Thread Starter
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P.S.

Which bleed nipple do you use when bleeding abs via Dealertool ?
It doesnít specify which one in the service manual.


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post #10 of 15 Old 12-17-19, 14:21
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Ah, good that you already tried working the pistons. I assume that means all pistons pump out reasonably evenly, yes? I'm not sure if spinning the wheel is a positive indicator. You will get some drag and might be tricky to see visually. I've never done this, but I suppose that once brakes are installed/bled that you could try feeler gage between pad and disc to see if that one side is not retracting as much as the rest? It would have to be a super-thin feeler.

Over-analyzing a bit: i see a couple of blems on the OD of a couple pistons in that pic, but hard to tell if nicks or just lighting/dust/etc... The piston OD should be flawless. If you can feel any defects with a fingernail: replace.

I'm not sure about the bleeder for the ABS bikes; never had to deal with one of those systems before & not looking forward to it. :)
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