2011 D675 Down Shift Issue - Page 2 - Triumph675.Net Forums
Maintenance and repair Problems, fixes, general maintenance talk

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post #11 of 33 Old 04-18-19, 22:12 Thread Starter
apiazza
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacBandit View Post
Not that you need me to validate but I think youíre on the right track. Itís most likely a shift selector spring, worn selector fork, or weak detent wheel spring.
I guess the hope at this point is not the fork because then it's a split case and missing a couple months of the track season.

Have you done a yoyodyne before? Much different than the manual shows for a factory clutch?

Everyone's help is very much appreciated. I'm going to start ordering parts tomorrow (ordered the Sato spindle support tonight).

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post #12 of 33 Old 04-19-19, 00:11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apiazza View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MacBandit View Post
Not that you need me to validate but I think you’re on the right track. It’s most likely a shift selector spring, worn selector fork, or weak detent wheel spring.
I guess the hope at this point is not the fork because then it's a split case and missing a couple months of the track season.

Have you done a yoyodyne before? Much different than the manual shows for a factory clutch?

Everyone's help is very much appreciated. I'm going to start ordering parts tomorrow (ordered the Sato spindle support tonight).

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
I have. The instructions that come with it are really good, I had no issues. I'd call myself basically competent with mechanical stuff, but far from any kind of expert.
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post #13 of 33 Old 04-19-19, 00:28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apiazza View Post
I guess the hope at this point is not the fork because then it's a split case and missing a couple months of the track season.

Have you done a yoyodyne before? Much different than the manual shows for a factory clutch?

Everyone's help is very much appreciated. I'm going to start ordering parts tomorrow (ordered the Sato spindle support tonight).

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
The only way it's a shift fork is if you crashed hard enough to destroy your shifter or ride with your foot pushing on the shifter all the time. If you had crashed and done that you would have noticed the issue right away.

Regarding swapping the clutch the actual swap is pretty much the same for all clutches. The difference is only in the pack measurement. You need the manual for your slipper to make sure it's setup correctly.
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post #14 of 33 Old 04-19-19, 06:38 Thread Starter
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I have a second engine sitting in my basement. It's actually the original engine. Previous owner had the teeth from the starter idler gear get shredded so he dropped a different engine in. The clutch it already out from him putting the yoyo in the new engine. I'm thinking of just making it a donor for the project. The detent wheel and everything else look to be in good shape. The shift mechanism will definitely be donated because it appears those are on back order. Engine had about 6k miles when it let go.
@MacBandit the engine hasn't been down on the left side at all to my knowledge. At least not the last several years and I dont rest my foot on the shifter at all.
@MadMel you dont happen to have the manual still? I'm going to email yoyo today.

Thanks again.

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post #15 of 33 Old 04-19-19, 06:55
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For your shopping list above, consider adding new clutch springs - especially if they've never been replaced.

To me, the hardest part of clutch work is getting the cover back on with the fussy little alignment dowels, and making sure the spring loaded mechanism that connects to the clutch cable is in the right spot.

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post #16 of 33 Old 04-19-19, 07:29 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cjc View Post
For your shopping list above, consider adding new clutch springs - especially if they've never been replaced.

To me, the hardest part of clutch work is getting the cover back on with the fussy little alignment dowels, and making sure the spring loaded mechanism that connects to the clutch cable is in the right spot.
i was thinking about that. I've done stiffer clutch springs to several bikes in the past, but none that had a slipper. I'm not sure if stiffer springs will prevent the slipper from functioning as designed. Factory clutch springs are only about $4 each so it's not terrible.
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post #17 of 33 Old 04-19-19, 17:05
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I use factory springs in my slipper - works well.

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post #18 of 33 Old 04-19-19, 19:47
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@apiazza Turns out that I not only saved the manual to Google Drive, but I also PDFed a how-to thread from this forum so I could print it out for when I did the job.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bz9...w?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bz9...w?usp=drivesdk
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post #19 of 33 Old 04-19-19, 20:56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apiazza View Post
i was thinking about that. I've done stiffer clutch springs to several bikes in the past, but none that had a slipper. I'm not sure if stiffer springs will prevent the slipper from functioning as designed. Factory clutch springs are only about $4 each so it's not terrible.
The manual for the Sigma slipper says:
Quote:
If you have a tuned 675 engine please use CBR600RR clutch springs!!
They are stronger and will prevent slip under power.
I just had a Yoyodyne installed with new stock springs though. I have stiffer springs from a Barnett clutch kit, but I'll stick with stock for now.

Chris Denley
CCS Midwest Amateur #212
fb.me/DenleyRacing
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post #20 of 33 Old 04-19-19, 21:07
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My bike is dyno tuned, making 125 hp & 54 ft-lbs on that particular dyno. No issues with the stock springs for me.
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