HOW TO: Oil change - Triumph675.Net Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 10-16-12, 14:12 Thread Starter
OM3GA
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Arrow HOW TO: Oil change

Hey,

I know what most of you're thinking 'another one', yep another one! Now I've got some time to spare as the riding season is coming to an end here and this way I'd like to contribute something to the forum! I'll try to get as many info on the oil change here as possible to answer any questions might have when you're doing research or when you have any during the process.

Credits: 'dipesh267', 'shaneXman' and 'valoflyby' for making a nice how to! And also a shout out to 'MacBandit' for the dipstick clarification.

Disclaimer: In no way can I or the forum be held responsible for any liability's to you, your bike or your surroundings. If you decide to follow this 'how to' it will be at your own responsibility.

Now that over lets get started:

Preparation:
ShaneXman has made a nice write up of the OEM materials: https://www.triumph675.net/forum/show...8&postcount=1\

A few things I've used for the oil change (unfortunately not all is shown):


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  • 4 liters (4.23 quarts) of oil (for specifications of the oil see further down below);
  • Oil filter wrench (for the triumph filter);
  • Torque wrench (for the oil filter & oil drain bolt);
  • 14 mm socket to remove the oil drain plug (and another size for the K&N filter -17 mm);
  • K&N Oil filter (#204);
  • A new crush washer (M14);
  • Funnel (if your oil bottle doesn't have one);
  • Allen tools or other tools (only if you got a belly pan like me or fairings);
  • Oil collection pan;
  • Some old news papers and cloth's to clean the mess up;
  • Haynes manual, triumph service manual or a how to like dipesh267's (https://www.triumph675.net/forum/showpost.php?p=148521&postcount=1).
Note I: There's a big chance that this will be your first oil change so to be on the safe side if you have a belly pan or fairings and remove them. Fairing removal HOW TO: https://www.triumph675.net/forum/showpost.php?p=12499&postcount=1.

1. Start your engines!:
Let the bike run for about 5 to approximately 10 minutes. This is to get the oil nice and hot so the oil removal will go a lot smoother.

2. Kill the engine and remove the oil drain plug:
Note I: To drain the oil completely the bike needs to be on its side stand.

Watch your hands as the oil is very hot and wait for most of it to drain out!
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This is the oil drain plug.
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As you can see the old oil is coming out, make sure you drop the oil drain plug in the collection pan.

3. Remove the oil filter:
Now use the filter wrench and remove the oil filter (some of these filters can be really tight) and again be careful of the oil!

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The oil filter.
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Don't forget to drain the oil inside the oil filter as well.

4. Clean up:
Clean up all the old oil around the drain plug and filter area so an oil leak can be easily spotted when we're starting the engine again.
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It's a lovely mess!

5. Refit the new oil filter:
Note I: Put some oil in the filter and make sure you put some oil on the rubber seal!

If you got a triumph oil filter wrench tool or a K&N filter tighten the filter to 10 Nm or 7,4 ft/lb. If you got an strap or chain wrench here's a warning from the Haynes manual:

Haynes Note: Don't use a strap or chain type removal tool to tighten the filer as this will damage the filter body.

Since I've got a K&N filter I can't confirm this, but just as a heads up :)
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Clever thinking by K&N as there are no special tools needed for the filter.
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Filled the filter with oil (let it soak for a few times) and also used oil on the rubber seal.

6. Refit the drain plug:
Note I: Don't over torque the crush washer as this can crack your sump.

Be sure to use a new crush washer! And torque the oil drain plug to 25 Nm or 18.4 ft/lb .
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The oil drain bolt with a new crush washer.

7. Fill the engine with new oil:


Note I: A little information about the correct oils:
  • Oil type: Semi or fully synthetic motorcycle engine oil, API grade SH or higher and JASO MA:
    • As you can see there's JASO MA-2 on my bottle, this is because the JASO 'split' the MA standard. JASO MA-1 is for low friction modifiers and JASO MA-2 is for high friction modifiers. Use JASO MA-2 for bikes, the MA-1 standard isn't compatible with wet clutches and can cause damage to your clutch (clutch slip)!
  • Oil viscosity: SAE 10W/40 or 15W/50.
Note II: Oil volume was increased by 0.5 liter for Daytona models from VIN 381275- and on (also on 2009 and later street triples) and a new shorter dipstick was fitter to accommodate this. See 'MacBandits' post:(https://www.triumph675.net/forum/showpost.php?p=613109&postcount=1).


Note III: Oil level capacity (Daytona and street triple (R) are all the same):
  • Dry fill: 3.5 liters or 3.7 quarts;
  • Wet fill (including filter): 3.1 liters or 3.28 quarts;
  • Wet fill (excluding filter): 2.9 liters or 3.06 quarts.
Since we replaced the filter for a new one and it isn't 'completely' dry we need to put in the correct amount of oil. As per 'MacBandits' post I've still got the old dipstick (see further down for the pic) and according to the Haynes manual I needed to add a minimum amount of 2,6 liters (2.75 quarts) to reach the 'low' level on my old dipstick.

So I've added 2.6 liters to start with and after that I've used the dipstick on wards (the next step). The last thing you want is to overfill your bike! So take it slow and add a little amount every time.
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The oil I used for this oil change (first time I've used it).
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Only add oil here (see the sticker).
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As you can see I got one an old style dipstick.

Last edited by OM3GA; 10-16-12 at 16:14. Reason: See version history (post #3).
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post #2 of 8 Old 10-16-12, 14:13 Thread Starter
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8. HOW TO INCEPTION - HOW TO: Oil level check:
Note I: Make sure the oil warning light goes out quickly after you start your engine! (because I've filled the filter with oil it only took a second or two to go out).

Note II: To measure the oil level your bike needs to be upright and level. As you can see I've used a rear stand and some wood to get my bike sitting upright and level.

Note III: Let your engine idle the entire time, DON'T rev it (let it circulate on its own because if there's no oil in places where it is needed...).

8.1 Start the engine and let it run idle for approximately 5 minutes:
While the bike is idling and warming up check for oil leaks around the drain plug and oil filter.

Now if the filter is leaking tighten it some more and if the drain plug is leaking check the torque, if its to the correct torque and still leaking you unfortunately need to replace the crush washer.

8.2 Stop the engine and let the oil sink down for 10 minutes:
If you don't wait, the oil doesn't have a chance to return to it resting state. And as a result the dipstick reading will read low.

8.3 After 10 minutes unscrew dipstick.
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This is the location of the dipstick.

8.4 Clean the entire dipstick of oil.
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Oil has dripped down onto the dipstick, we can't read the oil level this way.
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Nice and clean!

8.5 Screw the clean dipstick back in fully!
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Like so.

8.6 Unscrew the dipstick again.
8.7 Check the oil level:
If it's below the upper line then you can add a small amount of oil to get to the upper level. If it's above the upper line then you need to remove some oil.
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With 2,6 liters its exactly on the low of the old dipstick, now add some more oil!
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Thanks to this its an very easy task to see what you're doing.
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Add in small amounts of around 100 (0.1) to 200 ml (0.2 quart) at a time.

8.8. After adding (or removing) some oil, massure again: If the dipstick still isn't showing 'full' repeat the how to, and add a small amount of oil each time. If its overfilled remove oil until its on the 'full' mark.

You don't need to start en stop the engine every time you recheck (step 8.1 & 8.2). Instead I've run it every even time I added oil for a minute or two. Now if the dipstick is showing full then continue to the next step!

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Take your time and add small amounts, you don't want to overfill.
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Now as you can see I've "overfilled" it by a hair. But since I've got the old dipstick I still need to add more oil to get to the same 'full' mark as the new style dipstick so no worries, this was just for illustrations :)

9. Congratulations, you're done!
The new engine oil is in and if it's applicable to you, then you only need to put the fairing or belly pan back on.

I hope you found it useful and as always: any comments or suggestions are welcome! I plan to do an coolant change when the weather get better, if you need anything documented let me know.

-OM3GA.

Last edited by OM3GA; 10-16-12 at 15:54. Reason: See version history (post #3).
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post #3 of 8 Old 10-16-12, 14:14 Thread Starter
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Revision history

16th October 2012 - Initial Version.
16th October 2012 - Added the second post and fixed some spelling in both.
16th October 2012 - Images should now be visible but alas in thumbnail, because of the attachment to the post. The other images are still 'moderated' at this time.

Last edited by OM3GA; 10-16-12 at 16:24.
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post #4 of 8 Old 10-16-12, 18:07
Far Canal
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Never fill to a quantity and always use the dipstick instead. My bike(2011 675R) takes 3.6 litres with a new filter.
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post #5 of 8 Old 10-18-12, 02:27 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Far Canal View Post
Never fill to a quantity and always use the dipstick instead. My bike(2011 675R) takes 3.6 litres with a new filter.
Agreed. Always use the dipstick as the main tool to measure your progress! But you do need a mimimum amount of oil in the bike before you're able to use it, hence the filling to a (low) quantity of oil for the first time only.

-OM3GA.
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post #6 of 8 Old 07-24-19, 19:46
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I recently picked up a 2009 Street Triple, VIN 381053. I cannot confidently determine which oil level I should be using. Can you please help me confirm whether or not I should be using the new or old fill level?
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post #7 of 8 Old 07-25-19, 06:53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mister_project View Post
I recently picked up a 2009 Street Triple, VIN 381053. I cannot confidently determine which oil level I should be using. Can you please help me confirm whether or not I should be using the new or old fill level?

The new one. Nothing changed in the bikes that required the change in level - the only thing that changed was the understanding of the factory about what is the best oil quantity. Among others it helps cool the stator which has a hard time with temperatures as the oil is the only thing that cools it.
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post #8 of 8 Old 07-25-19, 08:59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasmablaster View Post
The new one. Nothing changed in the bikes that required the change in level - the only thing that changed was the understanding of the factory about what is the best oil quantity. Among others it helps cool the stator which has a hard time with temperatures as the oil is the only thing that cools it.
Thanks a ton for clarifying. I guess I was getting hung up on this part in the OP:
"Note II: Oil volume was increased by 0.5 liter for Daytona models from VIN 381275"

I think I originally read that wrong, and perhaps that VIN break was just when Triumph started fitting the newer dipsticks--NOT that VINs before that were excluded.
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