HOW to Fix Regulator/ Rectifier - Page 2 - Triumph675.Net Forums
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post #11 of 48 Old 02-16-11, 18:39
Tylenol
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I'd like to avoid this issue if I can. Just bought an '09 Daytona which I believe still has the stock RR. Can I just buy this one and its a simple plug and play swap? I won't need to solder anything?
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post #12 of 48 Old 02-17-11, 07:28
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If you buy Triumph then it's plug and play.


To read about the transformation click > Project Trixie Transformation

For comparison photo of old R/R with new improved R/R under recall of 2012 click > R/R Comparison Photos
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post #13 of 48 Old 03-15-11, 17:40 Thread Starter
wisey
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If you buy the RegulatorRectifier.com one its also plug and play.
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post #14 of 48 Old 03-15-11, 19:31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wisey View Post
If you buy the RegulatorRectifier.com one its also plug and play.

Also more expensive then getting the FH008 model off a CBR and separate connectors to mount up.

1997 YZF100R/Thunderace - She committed suicide 15Mar07!
2008 Daytona 675 - She was murdered 30Jan13
2013 Daytona 675R - Sexy reincarnation 15Mar13! Here's my build



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post #15 of 48 Old 03-15-11, 20:29
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The plug and play ones will be atleast twice what you should pay for the harness and mosfet r/r. It's just a little more work but well worth the little effort needed, and it should prevent the burned harness.
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post #16 of 48 Old 03-16-11, 20:28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wisey View Post
MOSFET is the type of metal which is cooler and allows more volts to run through. Much better unit and less likely to break.
MOSFET stands for Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor and has nothing to do with the type of metal being used. It is a transistor located inside of the R/R and is used as a replacement for the old SCR method of switching.
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post #17 of 48 Old 03-17-11, 11:03
MHR speedy
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I don't trust my wiring ability to go the DIY wiring route. I'll gladly pay extra for that peace of mind... I'd kick myself if I tried to go the cheap route and burned up my damn bike, or worse yet myself to save $100 on a $6k machine.

I swapped out the stock R/R for the one from the website the OP suggested.

New to the Triumph world, hoping to enjoy my stay...
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post #18 of 48 Old 03-17-11, 15:53
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You've already swapped them out but the DIY was super easy with the How-to instructions from d'ecosse.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MHR speedy View Post
I don't trust my wiring ability to go the DIY wiring route. I'll gladly pay extra for that peace of mind... I'd kick myself if I tried to go the cheap route and burned up my damn bike, or worse yet myself to save $100 on a $6k machine.

I swapped out the stock R/R for the one from the website the OP suggested.

1997 YZF100R/Thunderace - She committed suicide 15Mar07!
2008 Daytona 675 - She was murdered 30Jan13
2013 Daytona 675R - Sexy reincarnation 15Mar13! Here's my build



"Win or learn...never lose"
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post #19 of 48 Old 03-24-11, 11:57
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Can anyone please post a picture of where they are located and what the new and old ones should look like? I'm a newbie to bike mechanics and have searched everywhere(without taking anything off the bike) and can't seem to see anything that looks like an r/r.

2010 Tornado Red 675 - Vela
2008 Xterra OR - Jaws
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post #20 of 48 Old 03-24-11, 12:26
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The fairing infill panels, the things next to the tank, take off the right one. It's underneath that. It's attached to one of the bolts that hold the nose fairing to the side fairing. It's a huge grey motherboard looking thing, can't miss it.
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