How To: Replace Counter Sprocket Seal - Page 4 - Triumph675.Net Forums
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post #31 of 82 Old 07-29-15, 16:18
Dsc45shooter
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im confused as to which seal to buy. this topic thread has links to two different ones.
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post #32 of 82 Old 07-29-15, 17:03
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Originally Posted by Dsc45shooter View Post
im confused as to which seal to buy. this topic thread has links to two different ones.
I had the same question. here is the answer
http://www.ultimateindustrial.com/35...h-temperature/

check back on page 3. i asked a few months back. i have used this seal and it holds up great
everyone reccommends getting 2, in case you fubar it the first time, you dont have to wait shipping time for the second

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post #33 of 82 Old 07-29-15, 22:44 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dsc45shooter View Post
im confused as to which seal to buy. this topic thread has links to two different ones.

I posted a link in the OP: http://www.ultimateindustrial.com/oi...ble-lip-viton/

Bought two more after I installed the seal just in case it started to leak again, but it's been good so far... a few k miles and several trackdays later and still holding up.



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I had the same question. here is the answer
http://www.ultimateindustrial.com/35...h-temperature/

Link is bad.

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post #34 of 82 Old 07-29-15, 23:20
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Link is bad.[/QUOTE]

oh damn. thanks for checking on that Easy.
yea. i installed, and still have a small leak....
guess i should have ordered two like you guys told me too
ahahahha

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post #35 of 82 Old 08-05-15, 22:28
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just replaced my seal and swapped to 15t sprocket. took a little less than 3 hours. everything was straight forward like the instruction here said. my seal seemed to be leaking pretty bad. once it was removed, i smeared grease on the inside portion of the case and on outside section of new seal. also put some grease on the center double lips. the seal pushed in by hand easy enough but it was very hard to keep it even on all sides. i used a wooden dowel to tap it in the rest of the way. i noticed it wont sit in the case exactly flush because the case halves are not machined exactly level or mating up to each other perfectly. i tapped it pretty hard so i know its up against the race inside the case. left the sprocket cover off and did a test ride. no leaks as of yet and wow do i love that 15t sprocket. im gonna take it for a 140 mile torture ride sat and look again. i will button it up if its still dry. was kinda worried that the seal might start pushing itself out after using so much grease due to pressure inside the engine. if it leaks or starts to push out, im going to do it again and maybe use some rtv sealant mixed with grease or something. i did notice i had to turn my chain adjusters out quite a bit to get 1.5 inches slack. 1" seems too tight.

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post #36 of 82 Old 08-13-15, 08:56
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400 miles now and still dry. I have not been easy on it. I think those industrial seals are the bees knees. my factory one was leaking pretty bad.
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post #37 of 82 Old 08-13-15, 11:52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dsc45shooter View Post
i noticed it wont sit in the case exactly flush because the case halves are not machined exactly level or mating up to each other perfectly. i tapped it pretty hard so i know its up against the race inside the case.
I'm actually thinking this might be a major part of the issue. The factory KOYO seals are good quality seals, but I think since they are only 5mm thick and don't go all the way back to the race, it's easy for the factory/dealers to misalign them when installing, so that they aren't squared up properly. Since the case halves are not flush and level, you can't use them as a guide to align the seal.

The 7mm thick industrial seals sit against the bearing race, ensuring it is installed perfectly square. I replaced the seals on both my Daytona and STR (which was already replaced once by the dealer and started leaking again shortly afterwards), and while the seal does not look aligned to the cases on the outside, it is perfectly square up against the bearing race. No more leaks, even on the race bike.

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post #38 of 82 Old 08-14-15, 10:44
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I think your right. So glad I found this thread and the aftermarket seal. It wasn't bad to change at all. Only bad thing I did was reuse the large washer. Its on its third bend but on fresh metal. I'm sure it will be ok. I'll post a status update after hitting 1000 miles but bet money it will be all dry.

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post #39 of 82 Old 09-05-15, 20:52
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Looks like I'll be attempting this repair soon as well. I seem to have blown my front sprocket seal on my 08 Street Triple. I found a ~6 inch piece of rubber hose (looks vacuum / breather hose) wedged behind the sprocket. It had torn off of somewhere and wrapped itself around the shaft. This likely came from when I raised the tank earlier this week to check the fuses. It's similar to the hose that runs down from the tank. I'm not sure where What a nightmare.

Anyway, are the seals universal across all years? I see most people are 2013+.

Also, where would that hose have come from? I'd read a post elsewhere about losing crankcase breathing via a kinked hose and causing the failure. Don't want to put in a new seal only to blow it in a similar fashion.
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post #40 of 82 Old 09-10-15, 17:56
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Picked up two from Napa. Ruined both. I even froze the second and heated the engine case. Not sure how anyone got them started using their fingers. At least I didn't ruin the industrial seals that are 3x the price. Hopefully a local Napa will have another one I can take to a shop unless someone has a trick I haven't tried.
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