Manual Cam Chain Tensioner - any noise? - Triumph675.Net Forums
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post #1 of 15 Old 09-27-19, 16:06 Thread Starter
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Manual Cam Chain Tensioner - any noise?

Hi guys,

I had my mechanic do a couple of reliability mods on my 40K miles '10 ST-R: installation of a UKRS oil cooler (planed and augmented with a passive PC CPU cooler too!) and a manual cam chain tensioner.

After taking it back however I noticed a noise coming from the motor, a rhythmic drone "har-har-har-har-har", not very audible but since I know the bike like my own body I immediately noticed it. It's nothing like the well-known rattle, I've known the rattle ever since I got the bike. This is less loud, and it's rhythmic - it follows the RPM of the motor and becomes stronger when I close the throttle, until the RPMs drop and it becomes more silent again.

Not thinking it might be due to the oil cooler (no moving parts) my thoughts are it's because of the manual cct. I looked through 27 pages of the relevant thread, and I found a single guy noticing a noise and asking a question but he never received any answer.

Now - any of you guys with manual CCTs - did you have any such rhythmic noise after this installation? If yes might it be because of over-tightening?

Thanks in advance for any replies.
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post #2 of 15 Old 09-27-19, 18:07
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Over-tightening probably wouldn't cause a noise. I've found over-tightened chains make no noise, and in fact the bike runs great, right up until the chain snaps and you lose the motor. Any noise you hear may be either 1) in your head or 2) a result of under-tightening.

I'd follow the how-to on here and double-check your mechanic's work. The tensioner's plunger should be finger-tight, then backed off 1/8 to 1/4 turn.
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post #3 of 15 Old 09-27-19, 19:32 Thread Starter
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Thanks a lot MGF. It's definitely not in my mind, I know the noises this bike makes, and in all configurations: With helmet and earplugs, with helmet but no earplugs, no helmet at all (each configuration lets in different noises).



Not likely to be overtight at least gives me some peace of mind. I know that loose CCs are less likely to cause major damage than very tight ones.



Maybe the noise comes from something else entirely, seems to be coming from the valvetrain in general, not necessarily from the right side. I'm definitely taking it back to him first thing Monday morning. At this point he is the one responsible for the bike and I'll open it up myself only if he refuses to deal with it.
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post #4 of 15 Old 09-28-19, 01:11
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Hi
Video might help if u can post one.

I have the APE manual CCT
Installed as per the how to to the letter except very slightly it on the loose side just to be safe from overtightening. I can hear a very slight chainbuzz every now and then but thatís it.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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post #5 of 15 Old 09-28-19, 12:33
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40k? Did he replace your cam chain too? It should be done that’s a lot of miles on the cam chain for a small bike.
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post #6 of 15 Old 09-28-19, 20:28 Thread Starter
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The first chain was replaced at 25K miles (40K Kilometers, now it's got exactly 58K Kilometers). It was in really bad shape - I played with it afterwards and about half its links bound heavily with each-other. The mechanic didn't mention anything about the current chain so I suppose it's still OK. Besides, I know it's in better shape than the previous one because of the much less rattling noise it made (up until now - with the manual cct it doesn't make any rattling whatsoever, hot or cold).


It's strange but no matter which cam chain, the bike only made rattling noise when cold and at very low revs. I never had any rattling at 6-8K RPMs like many people complained about.



So, here's a clip I took a couple of hours ago. The noise is immediately audible, when the camera is at the top of the gas tank. You are looking for a fast "taktaktaktaktaktaktak". It's less pronounced than the normal intake and exhaust noise so you might want to concentrate a bit on it to really hear it.


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post #7 of 15 Old 09-30-19, 08:07 Thread Starter
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I just took it to the mechanic, he listened carefully, took it for a ride and he said that the increased noise is due to the thin SAI block-off plates that let-through a lot more noise than the OEM SAI system.

It never occurred to me that this might be the reason so I didn't mention that I also had him remove the SAI system and use block-off plates.

Any experience with this guys? Does his claim have merit?
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post #8 of 15 Old 09-30-19, 19:32
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Everything sounds pretty normal, but it's possible the extra sound is from the SAI plates. What block-off kit did he use? Offical Triumph? Driven? Other?

The Triumph kit comes with solid dowels to replace the original hollow ones. The aftermarket kits reuse the hollow dowels and the reed valves too, so everything needs to stay in place if it's not Triumph.

That sound could also be cracked or loose header pipes. Get a torque wrench on the nuts and check carefully with a dental mirror for cracks.
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post #9 of 15 Old 09-30-19, 21:06 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGFChapin View Post
Everything sounds pretty normal, but it's possible the extra sound is from the SAI plates. What block-off kit did he use? Offical Triumph? Driven? Other?

The Triumph kit comes with solid dowels to replace the original hollow ones. The aftermarket kits reuse the hollow dowels and the reed valves too, so everything needs to stay in place if it's not Triumph.
It is this cheap set:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-SAI...72.m2749.l2649

I don't know if he screwed them directly onto the metal or if he used any rubber dowel. I might check the leftover OEM SAI system to see what he removed. For sure I instructed him to leave the reed valves in place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MGFChapin View Post
That sound could also be cracked or loose header pipes. Get a torque wrench on the nuts and check carefully with a dental mirror for cracks.
Will do so. Thanks.
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post #10 of 15 Old 09-30-19, 21:27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasmablaster View Post
I don't know if he screwed them directly onto the metal or if he used any rubber dowel. I might check the leftover OEM SAI system to see what he removed. For sure I instructed him to leave the reed valves in place.
The dowels are hollow metal tubes. They must remain in place.
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