The stock tubes aren't the same length.
I thought I read somewhere they should be. Looking at the parts diagram, they look about the same length, but are different part numbers. It looks like the middle cylinder's tube goes back towards the tail then loops back in a "U". I already ordered the 4-way connector and the 3 tubes while I was at it. I couldn't find a 4-way connector like that in an auto parts store, but I found vacuum caps.
Rergarding the second set of hoses. Does the bike still have the charcoal canister? If not what are the hoses going to? If they don't go to anything they absolutely should be removed and caped as that would be an air leak causing weird idle and running issues.
No, there is no charcoal canister. The previous owner must've removed it and replaced the 4-way connector it was attached to with a 3-way connector. I have no idea why. This is what it looked like when I got it until the 4-way connector broke (at the X).
Then to make the CEL go away, I replaced the broken 4-way connector with a 3-way and added another 3-way connector with a short length of tube.
That was how it looked when I tried syncing the throttle bodies. I just removed the charcoal tubes and capped it off, but since there wasn't any leaks, it didn't make a difference.
I tried moving the MAP sensor to the other side of the middle cylinder to see if it would make a difference. It wouldn't even start, so apparently it does matter where the MAP sensor is positioned in the system. I guess I will wait for my 4-way connector and hoses then try again. Is there a baseline position for the adjuster screws so I can get it started then make adjustments from there?
I would need to look at the TPS settings again but I know .6v is the base setting but I believe .72v is the final idle setting when you are done with all the adjustments.
I think it is suppose to be 0.6V +/- 0.02 closed and 0.75V +/- 0.05 open. I think I was getting about 0.67V closed and 0.84V open before adjusting it. After adjusting it, I got it to 0.6V closed, but suddenly when open TuneECU was reading over 3V! I can't get TuneECU Windows to work now to verify that (whole other issue), and I can't TuneECU Android to show the TPS voltage. One thing I noticed all along was if I slowly open the throttle, it would only reach 94% throttle wide open. If I cracked it open quickly, it would reach 100%. Is that normal? Is there a way to test the TPS without TuneECU, like with a voltmeter?
I guess I will read up on any service manuals I can find while I wait for the vacuum connectors and tubes. Thanks for the help.