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post #1 of 9 Old 03-16-19, 19:38 Thread Starter
cdenley
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throttle body sync rough idle

I wanted to make sure my throttle bodies are synced before getting a tune. I think I got the number's right in TuneECU, but it sounds worse to me than when I started. Can someone listen to my videos and confirm? Maybe even make a guess as to the cause? Is TuneECU an accurate way to sync them? Someone suggested I need to use a "mercury stick" since there is only 1 MAP sensor.

This video is before I finished. I didn't record video right off the bat, but I think this is close to where I started.
https://youtu.be/pjZK7TTsnvw

This video is the closest I got the numbers to match. You hear the RPM's go down then back up. That is me adjusting the idle.
https://youtu.be/NRucaQV_wTs

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post #2 of 9 Old 03-16-19, 21:51 Thread Starter
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Could a built motor change the timing for the cylinders causing TuneECU to read it wrong? Or maybe it is because the vacuum tubes going to the MAP sensor are different length? The tube for cylinder 2 is significantly shorter. Then I have 2 T junctions, one by cylinder 2 connecting the three tubes, then another between cylinders 1 and 2 for the MAP sensor. So the MAP sensor is closer to cylinder 1 than 3. Maybe I should just get new tubing and a 4-way junction and redo it.

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post #3 of 9 Old 03-17-19, 03:51
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You adjust using TunECU not a throttle synch device of any sort. The tube length if stock is correct and is not needed to be accounted for. You need to go into the throttle adjustment procedure in TuneECU first. Then you only adjust cylinders 1 & 3 to match cylinder 2. If you have adjusted cylinder 2 than it’s a lot of work to get it back to where it needs to be so all of them are at the correct vacuum measurement and rpm at idle. All the instructions are in the service manual and need to be followed precisely. You just substitute TuneECU or Dealer Tool for the factory program used by a dealer.
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post #4 of 9 Old 03-17-19, 10:47 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacBandit View Post
The tube length if stock is correct and is not needed to be accounted for.
I don't think they are stock since the middle one is much shorter. Then the "T" junctions I know aren't stock because I did that to replace a 4-way junction that broke when the CEL came on. But the coal canister hoses are all going to a 3rd T junction, which is how I bought the bike, but I believe those can be capped.

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You need to go into the throttle adjustment procedure in TuneECU first.
Isn't that called "adjust ISCV" now? When I select that, it says something like "test unsupported". Doesn't that require the idle speed control motor which is disabled with the race kit ECU and harness? I adjusted the TPS so it reads 0.6V at idle.

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Then you only adjust cylinders 1 & 3 to match cylinder 2. If you have adjusted cylinder 2 than it’s a lot of work to get it back to where it needs to be so all of them are at the correct vacuum measurement and rpm at idle.
That is what I did. The two adjuster screws are for cylinders 1 and 3, right? I'm not sure how I would adjust cylinder 2.

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post #5 of 9 Old 03-17-19, 13:11
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The stock tubes aren't the same length. Rergarding the second set of hoses. Does the bike still have the charcoal canister? If not what are the hoses going to? If they don't go to anything they absolutely should be removed and caped as that would be an air leak causing weird idle and running issues. Yes the ISCV would be part of the idle adjustment procedure. I didn't know you had that removed. Since it's removed you don't have to worry about getting the bike to it's normal idle position as long as it is disabled in the ECU as well. I would need to look at the TPS settings again but I know .6v is the base setting but I believe .72v is the final idle setting when you are done with all the adjustments. I could be mistaken it's been while since I've had to do that. There are or at least to be adjuster screws on all three throttle bodies unless Triumph removed one of them on later models.
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post #6 of 9 Old 03-17-19, 19:31 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacBandit View Post
The stock tubes aren't the same length.
I thought I read somewhere they should be. Looking at the parts diagram, they look about the same length, but are different part numbers. It looks like the middle cylinder's tube goes back towards the tail then loops back in a "U". I already ordered the 4-way connector and the 3 tubes while I was at it. I couldn't find a 4-way connector like that in an auto parts store, but I found vacuum caps.

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Originally Posted by MacBandit View Post
Rergarding the second set of hoses. Does the bike still have the charcoal canister? If not what are the hoses going to? If they don't go to anything they absolutely should be removed and caped as that would be an air leak causing weird idle and running issues.
No, there is no charcoal canister. The previous owner must've removed it and replaced the 4-way connector it was attached to with a 3-way connector. I have no idea why. This is what it looked like when I got it until the 4-way connector broke (at the X).

Then to make the CEL go away, I replaced the broken 4-way connector with a 3-way and added another 3-way connector with a short length of tube.

That was how it looked when I tried syncing the throttle bodies. I just removed the charcoal tubes and capped it off, but since there wasn't any leaks, it didn't make a difference.

I tried moving the MAP sensor to the other side of the middle cylinder to see if it would make a difference. It wouldn't even start, so apparently it does matter where the MAP sensor is positioned in the system. I guess I will wait for my 4-way connector and hoses then try again. Is there a baseline position for the adjuster screws so I can get it started then make adjustments from there?

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Originally Posted by MacBandit View Post
I would need to look at the TPS settings again but I know .6v is the base setting but I believe .72v is the final idle setting when you are done with all the adjustments.
I think it is suppose to be 0.6V +/- 0.02 closed and 0.75V +/- 0.05 open. I think I was getting about 0.67V closed and 0.84V open before adjusting it. After adjusting it, I got it to 0.6V closed, but suddenly when open TuneECU was reading over 3V! I can't get TuneECU Windows to work now to verify that (whole other issue), and I can't TuneECU Android to show the TPS voltage. One thing I noticed all along was if I slowly open the throttle, it would only reach 94% throttle wide open. If I cracked it open quickly, it would reach 100%. Is that normal? Is there a way to test the TPS without TuneECU, like with a voltmeter?

I guess I will read up on any service manuals I can find while I wait for the vacuum connectors and tubes. Thanks for the help.
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Last edited by cdenley; 03-17-19 at 19:39.
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post #7 of 9 Old 03-18-19, 00:05
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You can't synch it without the proper 4way. No the stock tubes aren't (well at least I recall them not being so) exactly the correct length but I think Triumph took that into account in software. In anycase you have changed the tube lenghts by installing a 3way not in the correct position. This will not work.
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post #8 of 9 Old 03-18-19, 08:57
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Tps is a 5v sensor. Throttle closed should be just under 1v, and WOT should be close to 4ish. 0v and 5v are used to let the ecm know if there is an error with the sensor.

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post #9 of 9 Old 03-22-19, 19:13 Thread Starter
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Balanced and running smooth. Thanks for the help! All 3 hoses are the same length. The middle one loops around to make up for being closer.
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