Warped Front Brembo Disc - Triumph675.Net Forums
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post #1 of 10 Old 12-26-18, 13:59 Thread Starter
FieryGasoline
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Warped Front Brembo Disc

Just got back from a 3 day track holiday in spain (cartagena) which was brilliant, however I started getting some vibration under braking on the 2nd day towards the end of the sessions, which must have been due to the brakes being hottest then as once cooled it went away. I had some spare brake pads that I put in as the old ones were past their best anyway and noticed that with the front up on the stand the wheel would only rotate about 1/2 a turn with a push before coming to a stop as the brakes were dragging. With limited time/tools I just threw the new pads in and ended up glazing them, probably due to getting carried away and not following the bed in instructions Should mention I removed some of the fluid in the reservoir in case it was over filled.

Got the bike home now and pulled the brakes apart only to find that the right side brake disc has warped I thought floating discs were almost warp proof?! Especially being Brembo I'm surprised this happened so easily. I'm an inters rider so I'm sure they were being treated quite gently in comparison to some others

https://photos.app.goo.gl/1d5R45YvBkczjM7Z8

In the process of cleaning the calipers which have a fair bit of brake dust built up but are cleaning up nicely, can brake dust really cause this or should I be looking for other issues? Hopefully I can find a company to straighten it out if thats possible as they cost a bloody fortune.

Anyone found any similar issues with the Brembos?
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post #2 of 10 Old 12-26-18, 18:03
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The OE Brembos are hard to warp. Sorry to say, I blame you.

Excessive brake dust can restrict piston movement, which can warp the rotor, as well as glaze the pads. Since you also admit you didn't let everything warm up and bed in properly, rotors can warp with hard use when still cold. Keep the calipers clean (I thoroughly clean with dish soap and a toothbrush every day) and give your brakes at least one warm-up lap, and you shouldn't encounter the same problem.
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post #3 of 10 Old 12-27-18, 01:46
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Itís more likely he has material build up in a single spot from swapping pads without first cleaning the rotors. If you didnít swap with the exact same compound it can cause the new pads to stick to the old material left by the old pads building up in a single spot making it feel like a warped rotor. Another possibility is dirt behind the floating buttons.

Measure the rotor and make sure itís actually warped. Also make sure to hone the rotors to clean them before swapping pad brands or changing compounds
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post #4 of 10 Old 12-27-18, 06:44 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGFChapin View Post
The OE Brembos are hard to warp. Sorry to say, I blame you.
Dam, that hurts! As long as it doesn't happen again I can take it :) The vibration was already there before the pads were changed so I'd say it was already warped by this point. The brakes had done 3-4 trackdays since their last clean, which to be honest I thought was acceptable but clearly not for track use/ the amount of dust these pads are throwing out (EBC EPFAs).

Quote:
Originally Posted by MacBandit
Itís more likely he has material build up in a single spot from swapping pads without first cleaning the rotors. If you didnít swap with the exact same compound it can cause the new pads to stick to the old material left by the old pads building up in a single spot making it feel like a warped rotor. Another possibility is dirt behind the floating buttons.
Same pads were used, which I hoped would aid the initial bedding in. For track use the EBC website just says 2-3 laps of gentle brake use which I thought I did, perhaps if they were already dragging they've got too hot anyway. If you're able to watch the video I linked above that's with the caliper removed and the buttons cleaned and lubricated which didn't help unfortunetly, can clearly see the disc moving side to side :(
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post #5 of 10 Old 12-27-18, 09:21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacBandit View Post
Itís more likely he has material build up in a single spot from swapping pads without first cleaning the rotors. If you didnít swap with the exact same compound it can cause the new pads to stick to the old material left by the old pads building up in a single spot making it feel like a warped rotor. Another possibility is dirt behind the floating buttons.

Measure the rotor and make sure itís actually warped. Also make sure to hone the rotors to clean them before swapping pad brands or changing compounds
Ditto. Before spending money, aggressively clean the disc with steel wool and sandpaper.

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post #6 of 10 Old 12-27-18, 16:32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGFChapin View Post
The OE Brembos are hard to warp. Sorry to say, I blame you.

Excessive brake dust can restrict piston movement, which can warp the rotor, as well as glaze the pads. Since you also admit you didn't let everything warm up and bed in properly, rotors can warp with hard use when still cold. Keep the calipers clean (I thoroughly clean with dish soap and a toothbrush every day) and give your brakes at least one warm-up lap, and you shouldn't encounter the same problem.

I disagree. I warped my OEM rotors after a year of track days using CL59/60 pads. After one session I came in they were fine, the next session they were shot. I swapped to T Drive rotors and have not had a single issue for 2+ years now.


The OEM rotors are much thinner then the T drives and they can only handle so much heat before it becomes an issue.



Quote:
Originally Posted by FieryGasoline View Post
Just got back from a 3 day track holiday in spain (cartagena) which was brilliant, however I started getting some vibration under braking on the 2nd day towards the end of the sessions, which must have been due to the brakes being hottest then as once cooled it went away. I had some spare brake pads that I put in as the old ones were past their best anyway and noticed that with the front up on the stand the wheel would only rotate about 1/2 a turn with a push before coming to a stop as the brakes were dragging. With limited time/tools I just threw the new pads in and ended up glazing them, probably due to getting carried away and not following the bed in instructions Should mention I removed some of the fluid in the reservoir in case it was over filled.

Got the bike home now and pulled the brakes apart only to find that the right side brake disc has warped I thought floating discs were almost warp proof?! Especially being Brembo I'm surprised this happened so easily. I'm an inters rider so I'm sure they were being treated quite gently in comparison to some others

https://photos.app.goo.gl/1d5R45YvBkczjM7Z8

In the process of cleaning the calipers which have a fair bit of brake dust built up but are cleaning up nicely, can brake dust really cause this or should I be looking for other issues? Hopefully I can find a company to straighten it out if thats possible as they cost a bloody fortune.

Anyone found any similar issues with the Brembos?


You dont have floating rotors. They are semi float, so they really only 'float' up and down not side to side. The side to side float is what prevents the rotors from dragging. That being said get yourself T Drives and you wont have that issues again, as based on that video your rotor is now a cool paper weight.
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post #7 of 10 Old 01-10-19, 16:34 Thread Starter
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Good news! Sent the disc off to a company that was recommended to me that claimed to be able to straighten them and it's came back good as new! It turned out to be the carrier that was bent and not the floating outside section and wasn't done by heat, so I can only think it was hit by a rock or something. Only cost £45 vs hundreds for a new disc so very pleased.

Either way the calipers + discs have a had a good clean now, also learned that the buttons that the disc floats on require occasional cleaning as quite a few were stuck. All back together now and they don't drag half as much, plus they're straight which is the main thing! The T-Drives can wait for another day
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post #8 of 10 Old 01-10-19, 22:13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FieryGasoline View Post
Good news! Sent the disc off to a company that was recommended to me that claimed to be able to straighten them and it's came back good as new! It turned out to be the carrier that was bent and not the floating outside section and wasn't done by heat, so I can only think it was hit by a rock or something. Only cost £45 vs hundreds for a new disc so very pleased.

Either way the calipers + discs have a had a good clean now, also learned that the buttons that the disc floats on require occasional cleaning as quite a few were stuck. All back together now and they don't drag half as much, plus they're straight which is the main thing! The T-Drives can wait for another day
Don't get me wrong, but don't go shouting VICTORY just yet... As others have said, the OEM rotors are not really floating... have a read of EBC's technical info and you'll understand what I mean


https://ebcbrakes.com/articles/sd-sy...-how-it-works/


https://ebcbrakes.com/articles/the-f...by-ebc-brakes/


Also in regards to the pads, you have to pay attention if you're sticking to the same compound pad material or if you're changing it, when you change pads... I've recently started using SBS DC pads (Dual Carbon) and followed their procedure to the letter. I pulled out my rotors and beed blasted them clean to make sure that I removed as much material from the previous pads as possible. After that, not the first couple of laps, but the first couple of sessions I was super careful to make sure I could get the best result... I now have brakes that give me the feel I want, to ride without thinking about the brakes... I may think about other parts of the bike, but not the brakes

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post #9 of 10 Old 01-14-19, 17:08 Thread Starter
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Well now that I know they weren't warped from heat, providing I keep on top of cleaning I'm not expecting to have any more issues even if they are not true floating discs. Time will tell!

Last few set of pads have all been the EBC EPFA pads which I like, usually some brake cleaner and a brillo pad on the discs and they're good to go. Just got them hot a bit too quick this time round, de-glazed them with some emery paper so no harm done. I've actually got a set of the SBS DC pads to try which have been sat in the garage for a while as I just keep buying another set of EPFAs instead so I don't have to mess around bedding them in and missing precious sessions!
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post #10 of 10 Old 01-14-19, 22:14
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Originally Posted by FieryGasoline View Post
(Ö). I've actually got a set of the SBS DC pads to try which have been sat in the garage for a while as I just keep buying another set of EPFAs instead so I don't have to mess around bedding them in and missing precious sessions!
I only got mine cause bike is track only, and I can promise you, worlds apart to what I had before. If you're pulling double duties (street and track) than the EBC's you've got are probably your best bet, but if track only, I'd give the DC's a try... just saying.

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