Hi all Iím in need of help/opinions! - Page 2 - Triumph675.Net Forums
General 675 discussion Anything related to the Triumph 675 model(s), and miscellaneous motorcycle talk.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #11 of 19 Old 07-01-18, 12:43 Thread Starter
Cosmic1000
Junior Member
Threadstarter Threadstarter
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 8
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Notice the loom next to the plug, that loom comes off the back of the servo motor! I think the carbon canister is U.S spec only for emissions etc, donít think uk bikes have them! Has anyone got any idea where the servo motor actually plugs into? Or is part of the main loom?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Cosmic1000 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12 of 19 Old 07-01-18, 13:11
Cheyenne Bodie
Member
 
Cheyenne Bodie's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Virginia
Posts: 196
Thanks: 26
Thanked 21 Times in 21 Posts
Garage
I don't think I showed you a matching plug, but it's from a cable grouped up with my servo motor wiring and goes to the line which feeds the canister. If you don't have the canister box itself you may still have lines and regulation going on under there just in a different way, but I don't know.
Cheyenne Bodie is offline  
post #13 of 19 Old 07-01-18, 14:17
Verichai
Junior Member
 
Verichai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Chicago
Posts: 62
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
So what would the symptoms be if the valve was not functioning properly? Power decrease, I assume? Any telltales that it's not functioning? I bought my 2012 from the original owner and it had been several years since I last rode a (2006) Daytona, so my basis for comparison is fuzzy. I do notice this weird clattering sound immediately after start up, but it goes away after a couple seconds.
Verichai is offline  
 
post #14 of 19 Old 07-01-18, 14:28 Thread Starter
Cosmic1000
Junior Member
Threadstarter Threadstarter
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 8
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Verichai View Post
So what would the symptoms be if the valve was not functioning properly? Power decrease, I assume? Any telltales that it's not functioning? I bought my 2012 from the original owner and it had been several years since I last rode a (2006) Daytona, so my basis for comparison is fuzzy. I do notice this weird clattering sound immediately after start up, but it goes away after a couple seconds.


From what Iíve read they have a habit of failing closed, so in fairness if it had failed closed it would restrict the exhaust so Iíd imagine yes youíd lose power mate


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Cosmic1000 is offline  
post #15 of 19 Old 07-01-18, 14:40
Verichai
Junior Member
 
Verichai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Chicago
Posts: 62
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
That's what I thought, too. But I was curious to know if there is a way to know for sure if it is working properly? Is there a change in exhaust sound, power delivery, ect when the valve changes position?
Verichai is offline  
post #16 of 19 Old 07-01-18, 15:08 Thread Starter
Cosmic1000
Junior Member
Threadstarter Threadstarter
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 8
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Does anyone know which way is open and which way is closed? I assume itís possible to just lock wire the valve open?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Cosmic1000 is offline  
post #17 of 19 Old 07-01-18, 16:11
Cheyenne Bodie
Member
 
Cheyenne Bodie's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Virginia
Posts: 196
Thanks: 26
Thanked 21 Times in 21 Posts
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Verichai View Post
That's what I thought, too. But I was curious to know if there is a way to know for sure if it is working properly? Is there a change in exhaust sound, power delivery, ect when the valve changes position?
Yea, it will make the exhaust much louder under 6K RPM, it's designed to open above 6K normally. If your bike is clattering it might be the rock in your cat converter, but it's hard to say for sure. When it's not working the bike will be down on power, uneven with delivery, and basically fuunction fine but ride like crap.

The valve's default state is open, removing the cables (given the valve is functioning) will leave the valve open all the time. Some people have wired them open to be sure.
This thread shows the open valve after cable removal, and outlines how to do the removal properly: https://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=43487
Cheyenne Bodie is offline  
post #18 of 19 Old 07-01-18, 16:15 Thread Starter
Cosmic1000
Junior Member
Threadstarter Threadstarter
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 8
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheyenne Bodie View Post
Yea, it will make the exhaust much louder under 6K RPM, it's designed to open above 6K normally. If your bike is clattering it might be the rock in your cat converter, but it's hard to say for sure. When it's not working the bike will be down on power, uneven with delivery, and basically fuunction fine but ride like crap.



The valve's default state is open, removing the cables (given the valve is functioning) will leave the valve open all the time. Some people have wired them open to be sure.

This thread shows the open valve after cable removal, and outlines how to do the removal properly: https://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=43487


I just think mine seems down on power, are there any other common issues that can result in power loss? Or perhaps itís because my last bike was a K5 GSXR 1000! The triumph just doesnít seem to come alive until higher in the Rev range yet everyone says itís low down grunt is superb?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Cosmic1000 is offline  
post #19 of 19 Old 07-01-18, 16:54
Cheyenne Bodie
Member
 
Cheyenne Bodie's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Virginia
Posts: 196
Thanks: 26
Thanked 21 Times in 21 Posts
Garage
Everything from the tune/mis-tune to the air filter could cause a loss in power. Injectors being gunked up, lower quality fuel, natural engine wear, cat converter being faulty, etc...so many things which wouldn't outright throw a code. If you could check compression and do service tests on sensors and other devices that would rule out a ton of stuff, all stuff you can do with just checking data from the ECU. If you have a code then the code is probably the source of any problems, though there could be others conceivably. Specific to the 675 there's nothing I can think of worth mentioning.

If your EXUP is deleted you'll have much less low-end torque, it moves it higher in the rev range is all. It might make more HP up top as well, but down low it turns it into a bit of a prissy little Nancy. With the EXUP it's not exactly gobs of TQ, but it's enough to be useful for putting around town. Compared to a Gixxer1000 it should be able to reasonably keep up from 30-100 mph, but it depends on gearing I suppose. It's really more about power to weight than outright power, but the Suzuki should still certainly be more beastly all around.
Cheyenne Bodie is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Triumph675.Net Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode


Forum Jump

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome